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**prometheus578** · 10-09-2008, 01:55 AM

"No no no!"

Middle and final drives you need to use the dipstick gizmo. Might be in the tool kit, or behind one of the side covers, I can't remember which.
From experience, if you over fill the middle drive, it'll spray out the vent tube.
Yamaha still has the guage available... think they were about $6.
If not, build your own.
80w90 is OK for lube.

http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint13.shtml

Oil: a lot of us use Castrol GTX 20w50.
(But, a lot of us don't... I'm sure you'll be hearing from them soon)

Brake fluid: Unscrew the caps on the front and rear master cylinders. Brake fluid should be between the two lines on the side. If the color is anything other than clear or a clear pale yellow, you should replace it.
Open the bleeder screws and pump out the old fluid. Keep refilling the master cylinder with new fluid as you do this. If you let it run dry, you'll then have to bleed the air out of the system and that can be a pain at times.
Carbs: Unless you're having runability issues or they're leaking fuel, I'd leave the carbs alone for now.
If you're close to another member who has the tool to synchronize them, I would recommend that. Otherwise, just let them be.

Get a manual.

**TADracer** · 10-09-2008, 06:44 AM

Perhaps a few more things to remember

Hey Adam, welcome!

When you change the engine oil make sure you do not accidentally throw away the washer in the filter cup. It sticks to the bottom of the oil filter quite often. Order of parts in there is cup, spring, washer, filter and the center bolt up through the middle. Fill oil to between the lines on the sight window when the bike is level on the center stand. Start motor for a minute so the oil pump will fill the filter cup then top off the oil level again if needed. I have been using Fram CH-6002 filter and Castrol 4T 20W50 motorcycle oil with great result but probably any quality automotive oil will work. Stay away from synthetics as they can have an effect on the clutch performance (though some will dispute this) since the clutch pack is wet in the motor oil.

If you must change the middle and final gear oil before you locate a dipstick, they take in the range of 8 oz of 80W90 gear oil in each gearbox. Synthetic is Ok back here. The fill plugs may be hard to break loose so make sure you use a metric allen wrench and not the us standard one that fits closest into the hole. Be careful that you do not round out the hex cup on top of the fill plug. For some reason these things magically tighten up on their own. When reinstalling the fill plug, a bit of anti-sieze compound on the threads will make them easier to break loose in the future.

Like Prom says....get a manual.

I think I have an AutoCAD drawing of the dipstick. Send me a PM with your address and I will print it full size mail it to you.

**CatatonicBug** · 10-09-2008, 08:39 AM

Welcome Adam! You and I are just about in the same boat - I just got my first bike last week (1981 XS1100). Except I got the manual in a PDF file download from Ebay for $5.95. I think most of it applies to the '79 model too. (It's a rather large file, but I'm sure it wouldn't be impossible to e-mail it to you)

As far as oil goes, I just found a really cool article in the Tech Tips section of this site that compares Motorcycle oil with automotive oil. Seems like there is no real difference. The manual will tell you what kind of oil to use in each location, but the tips these guys have already given explain it all anyway.

I actually just made myself a dipstick out of plexiglass (the original was white plastic) the other night! It's super simple, and fits right into the empty tool container behind the battery

.
Here's the link to the page on how to make it.

I've been fumbling my way through my own bike this week, and the tips I've gotten on this site are definitely helpful.

Good luck!!

**CatatonicBug** · 10-09-2008, 03:37 PM

If anyone is interested, I just posted the manual for the XS1100 (not sure what years it applies to) that I got as a PDF file to my Website. It's the only file listed there. It's 182Mb, so it will take a while to download, but it's formatted to print double-sided if you want to print it out and put it in a binder like I did. If someone wants to download it and host it on this website, I figure that would be the best place for it.

**lakecountrydave** · 10-09-2008, 05:58 PM

Thank You CatatonicBug!!!!

**adam79** · 10-09-2008, 06:53 PM

I took the filter cup off carefully. No washer. The previous guy must of lost it. Can I throw on any old washer that might fit? Do I even need a washer?

**tarzan** · 10-09-2008, 08:29 PM

You should use the washer.Its used as a spacer I believe more than anything.So it gives the right tension so the oil filter seals against motor.You can replace it with another.It is a flat washer not a lock washer.

**adam79** · 10-09-2008, 09:26 PM

ok, i put the filter cup back on, but is there a certain way it is supposed to be facing? Cause i tightened it a lot and it still keeps leaking slowly.

**thewiz** · 10-09-2008, 09:31 PM

"...Yamaha still has the guage available... think they were about $6..."

I think they must be kinder up there in WA, Prom. The wonderful dealer here, House of Motorcycles, just dinged me 14 bucks and change for that thang.

If you do go to the dealer to get some stuff, ya' might pick up some extra oil drain plug washers. They're used in several other places as well.

**CatatonicBug** · 10-09-2008, 10:07 PM

Adam,

Did you replace the o-ring along with the filter? It's just a shot in the dark, but maybe that could be a cause of leakage...

**tarzan** · 10-10-2008, 04:51 AM

There are two little notches towards the back of the housing that kind of indicate that it goes that way.But the filter housing is round should fit just about any way you turn it I suppose.Obviously the ribs go in line front to back.As catatonic stated you could have either forgot to put in o-ring or maybe even the old o-ring is still in there and you added a new one ,so now you have two.And yes a new o-ring does come with a new filter usually.

**TADracer** · 10-10-2008, 06:30 AM

The two notches on back of the cup fit into two bosses on bottom of the motor to locate the cup. The cup will just spin up unitl they hit the bosses and then you must position the cup so it will engage the bosses and not spin when you screw in the bolt the rest of the way. Makes the fins on the cup orient front to back.

A dab of heavy grease in the groove around the top of the cup will hold the o-ring in place untill everything is seated. If the o-ring is pinched you will get a leak. Some filters come with new o-rings (I know the Fram filter does). You can reuse the o-rings in a pinch as long as you have no leaks when you start up. But new rings are a definate recommendation.

**boyat68** · 10-10-2008, 08:10 AM

adam79:

If you used the FRAM CH6008, it comes with a separate "O" Ring in the box that has been bent into a different configuration because of packaging. Take that "O" Ring and let it set in a small pan of water that you have bought to a boil and removed from the burner. let soak for about 5 minutes, which will slightly expand the ring and it will fit snug into the bottom of the filter. A slight dab of grease or vaseline on the "O" Ring will insure positive seating against the mating surface.

By the way, the manual that you posted is the original manual 78-XS1100E (LIT - 11616-0081). It has Index 1-7 later manuals cover the same 1-7 but add 8 for the Xs1100F, 9 for the XS1100SF, and 10 for the XS1100G/SG models.

**planedick** · 10-10-2008, 08:31 AM

Washer

There is also a spring that goes under the washer and without it the oil doesn't get filtered at all.

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