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After almost 2 years of procrastination, I decided to do the "2nd gear fix" on my XJ. Since I began riding it in 2000, the occasional skip was getting more frequent. I had purchased all the gaskets, had the replacement gears, and was just waiting until the mood struck. It did this past weekend.
After printing out Ken Talbot's Tech Tip and a few transmission diagrams from Rob Mill's CD-ROM, I was ready to go. I also had a set of 3/8 inch drive metric Allen wrenches and a 1/4 drive inch set of Torex wrenches in addition to my regular tools. In my opinion you should not attempt this repair without these sets. You might be able to get by using standard Allen srenches (you will neet one for a couple bolts where the Allen wrench socket coucln't reach) but they make the job much easier and probably faster. Can't remember what I paid for the Allen wrench set, but the Torex set was about $12.00. You only need a T30 for 3 bolts, so you might be able to buy just one socket at a lower price. Other tools I used included a snap ring pliers and a tool designed to remove the 'C' clip that hold the 2nd gear onto the main shaft. 'C' clips are used on some 4x4 hubs, and I had a set of this plier-looking tool in my box, as I own 3 each 4-wheel drive vehicles. Think the price was around $10.00. Not absolutely needed, as you can remove the clip with a couple of screwdrivers, but highly recommended.
Two notes for XJ owners not in the Tech Tip. Remove the sidestand switch and get it out of the way. The XJ has an additional sensor in the oil pan. The wire for this sensor is soldered on, and I could not remove the sensor from the pan. While I simply left the sensor in place with the wire attached (moving the wire will let you lean the pan on the center stand) it is a real pain when you have to remove old gasket material. I would suggest cutting the wire and adding a connector to it, or re-connecting the wire once you are done.
I worked the old fashioned way...bike on center stand and me under it. I removed the oil pump to give me more room. I did reprime it and spun the bike over for about a minuite (about 3 each 20 second cranks) to get oil flowing again before I started the bike.
Not being one to do things the easy way, I ended up putting in the forks 3 times. First time I had forks 1 and 3 in upside down. Next time I had forks 1 and 3 switched, couldn't get #1 in place. Finally got everything in right on the 3rd try. Next time I'll mark the forks before I pull them out, if there is a next time.....
Note: Fork shaft has a small pin in it just behind the gear. This does fit in a relief cut for it in the case, and things will fit much nicer if you align the pin to the relief before you get the fork shaft into the engine.
All in all it was a straight forward excercise. Worst part was getting forks 3 and 2 (3 being closest to the clutch) in place...got hit in the head a couple times from falling forks before I got them in. (Can see where pulling the engine or turning the bike over would help.) 2nd worst part was removing old gasket material from various surfaces. I did use the "Pam Cooking Spray" technique on the replacement gaskets, hope it works if I ever have to remove them.
Since I also fitted a used Jardine 4-into-2 system to the bike as part of the same job - removed the stock system as part of the process - it took me most of a day to get everything done. Had to 'notch' my 3-point engine guards for clearance, and my Dremmel doesn't cut all that fast. A quick trial run shows the 2nd gear skip is gone. Will know for sure after I hitch up the trailer and give it a try under load. Problem had gotten to the point where it was skipping with just me on the bike on almost every shift, so it shows a geat deal of improvement already. I don't think there will be a problem when pulling the trailer.
Forks showed no sign of wear. Old gears don't look that bad, either. Really think the problem was lack of engagement between the dogs and slots in the meshing gears. I did have the gear face cut for the original washer and added a 2nd washer behind the gear, which increases the engagement. Also undercut the dogs slightly, which should make engagment more positive.
All told, I am glad to get it done. I'm a little sore from rolling around the garage floor, but that will pass. Not as young as I used to be, I guess. This is a job within the capabilities of anyone who has done most of their own wrenching on other projects. Just read the instructions, have the tools, gaskets and parts assembled before hand, and start with a full roll of paper shop towels.
After printing out Ken Talbot's Tech Tip and a few transmission diagrams from Rob Mill's CD-ROM, I was ready to go. I also had a set of 3/8 inch drive metric Allen wrenches and a 1/4 drive inch set of Torex wrenches in addition to my regular tools. In my opinion you should not attempt this repair without these sets. You might be able to get by using standard Allen srenches (you will neet one for a couple bolts where the Allen wrench socket coucln't reach) but they make the job much easier and probably faster. Can't remember what I paid for the Allen wrench set, but the Torex set was about $12.00. You only need a T30 for 3 bolts, so you might be able to buy just one socket at a lower price. Other tools I used included a snap ring pliers and a tool designed to remove the 'C' clip that hold the 2nd gear onto the main shaft. 'C' clips are used on some 4x4 hubs, and I had a set of this plier-looking tool in my box, as I own 3 each 4-wheel drive vehicles. Think the price was around $10.00. Not absolutely needed, as you can remove the clip with a couple of screwdrivers, but highly recommended.
Two notes for XJ owners not in the Tech Tip. Remove the sidestand switch and get it out of the way. The XJ has an additional sensor in the oil pan. The wire for this sensor is soldered on, and I could not remove the sensor from the pan. While I simply left the sensor in place with the wire attached (moving the wire will let you lean the pan on the center stand) it is a real pain when you have to remove old gasket material. I would suggest cutting the wire and adding a connector to it, or re-connecting the wire once you are done.
I worked the old fashioned way...bike on center stand and me under it. I removed the oil pump to give me more room. I did reprime it and spun the bike over for about a minuite (about 3 each 20 second cranks) to get oil flowing again before I started the bike.
Not being one to do things the easy way, I ended up putting in the forks 3 times. First time I had forks 1 and 3 in upside down. Next time I had forks 1 and 3 switched, couldn't get #1 in place. Finally got everything in right on the 3rd try. Next time I'll mark the forks before I pull them out, if there is a next time.....
Note: Fork shaft has a small pin in it just behind the gear. This does fit in a relief cut for it in the case, and things will fit much nicer if you align the pin to the relief before you get the fork shaft into the engine.
All in all it was a straight forward excercise. Worst part was getting forks 3 and 2 (3 being closest to the clutch) in place...got hit in the head a couple times from falling forks before I got them in. (Can see where pulling the engine or turning the bike over would help.) 2nd worst part was removing old gasket material from various surfaces. I did use the "Pam Cooking Spray" technique on the replacement gaskets, hope it works if I ever have to remove them.
Since I also fitted a used Jardine 4-into-2 system to the bike as part of the same job - removed the stock system as part of the process - it took me most of a day to get everything done. Had to 'notch' my 3-point engine guards for clearance, and my Dremmel doesn't cut all that fast. A quick trial run shows the 2nd gear skip is gone. Will know for sure after I hitch up the trailer and give it a try under load. Problem had gotten to the point where it was skipping with just me on the bike on almost every shift, so it shows a geat deal of improvement already. I don't think there will be a problem when pulling the trailer.
Forks showed no sign of wear. Old gears don't look that bad, either. Really think the problem was lack of engagement between the dogs and slots in the meshing gears. I did have the gear face cut for the original washer and added a 2nd washer behind the gear, which increases the engagement. Also undercut the dogs slightly, which should make engagment more positive.
All told, I am glad to get it done. I'm a little sore from rolling around the garage floor, but that will pass. Not as young as I used to be, I guess. This is a job within the capabilities of anyone who has done most of their own wrenching on other projects. Just read the instructions, have the tools, gaskets and parts assembled before hand, and start with a full roll of paper shop towels.
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