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Using Dremel on steering head bearing races

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  • Using Dremel on steering head bearing races

    I've read other posts about using a Dremel to get the races out but I am wondering what happens if you go through the race and cut a small groove in the steering head (frame) itself. Wouldn't that screw up the fit for the new race.......or is it no big deal?

    Thank you

  • #2
    Only score the race with the dremel, all the way accross, but not through, then a chisel hit at the score line will snap it, it'll fall out. Save the carcass to use as a ram to seat the new race.

    Throw the new races in the freezer overnight, install them frozen they'll go in like **** through a goose

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    • #3
      Head to Sears... pick up the Craftsman 12 inch alignment tool
      $8.99

      stick about two inches of it in a vise and whack the handle sideways mit der hammer of Thor.
      (don't hit your thumb, or it'll be thor, too)
      Anyway...
      Good, now you have a long punch-like thing, with a curve on the end.
      Funny, but it's just the right shape to stick down the steering head and catch that thin lip of the lower bearing's race and knock it out o' der.
      (sometimes it helps to grind a bevelled edge on the end, so that it doesn't slide offa the race.
      Take the old races and grind down the outside edge with your bench grinder(it's right next to your vise)... use the old races to press in (read:hammer) the new races. The old races, once ground a bit, won't get stuck in the steering head.

      As Randy mentioned... freeze the races before installing them.
      Freeze the lower triple tree(the thing that the bearings go on) before trying to install the new bearings.

      Getting the old bearings offa the lower fork tree shaft:
      This is the fun part.
      Use a die grinder and a cutting wheel, or your dremel if it has something similar.
      Cut all the way through the bearing and them vigorously apply a chisel.
      Getting the new bearings on the shaft:
      I use a length of old fork tube. Slides over the shaft, and is the right diameter to fit against the inner part of the bearing to press it in.
      Some people use a section of steel pipe, with the end ground a bit to match the diameter.
      Or, take the thing and the lower bearing to your favorite shop, along with a cold six-pack of beer(good beer, not that MGD crap) and see if they'll press on the bearing for you.
      Chances are.. they'll be using a length of old fork tube, or a section of steel pipe...
      "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

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      • #4
        just a quick thought with using a chisel
        to crack the bearing, cover the bearing with a rag
        ive seen those things shoot across the room.
        pete


        new owner of
        08 gen2 hayabusa


        former owner
        1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
        zrx carbs
        18mm float height
        145 main jets
        38 pilots
        slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
        fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

        [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

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        • #5
          If only there were a more violent way to do this
          I hate signatures. Too many cars and Bikes to list here.

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          • #6
            Hilti gun with concrete nails?
            Nice day, if it doesn't rain...

            '05 ST1300
            '83 502/502 Monte Carlo for sale/trade

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            • #7
              Do you have a welder?

              Just run a bead along the race, when it cools, it contracts and the race falls out.

              Keep the old race and use it to knock in the new one. If you get it out intact then just run a dremel cut though the side of it so it contracts enough to get it out again.
              '84 Sport

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              • #8
                *&%!# Steering head races

                Originally posted by randy View Post
                Only score the race with the dremel, all the way accross, but not through, then a chisel hit at the score line will snap it, it'll fall out. Save the carcass to use as a ram to seat the new race.
                OK, I've scored , re-scored, drawn "x" patterns with the darn Dremel, chiseled, hammered, heated with a propane torch, cussed and this thing ain't snappin'. I did get a triangular shaped piece to fall out, but the race is still in there tight. I'm starting to tear up the tube now. I don't own the right punch. I've tried everything in my tool box. Somebody please tell me, without having to spend $10 on a punch I'll never use again, how to get this stinkin' race outta here? I don't have one of your fancy welders either.

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                • #9
                  He's a butcher, I tell ya!

                  [IMG][/IMG]

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                  • #10
                    Squirt some PBblaster or similar in around race......while that's trying to do its thing, take that dremal with the cut-off wheel and cut a slop THROUGH the race on the opposite side(same for the already butchered side). Then take chisel, angled in the slot like your wanting to rotate it, and hit it right smartly with a hammer. Go to opposite side and do the same thing.......those halfs will pop right out. Take some emery or sanding paper and clean that inner surface up a bit. Block of wood and drive new race in(correct direction). Since the old race may be beyond using for driving new race in down to bottom lip, find, borrow a large socket to finish getting it all the way down against the inside lip of neck tube......JAT and has worked for me in alot worse looking situations.
                    81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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                    • #11
                      Punch, don't dremel

                      So after half a day with the Dremel and blunting all three of my cold chisels, and almost destroying the head tube, I finally went out and bought the $15.00 Chinese punch&chisel set. Had just the right punch. Took exactly 15 seconds to remove each race.

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                      • #12
                        The right tool do make it easier.

                        You could have spent a lot less on beer too if you just had the right punch.
                        Greg

                        Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid.”

                        ― Albert Einstein

                        80 SG Ol' Okie;79 engine & carbs w/pods, 45 pilots, 140 mains, Custom Mac 4 into 2 exhaust, ACCT,XS850 final drive,110/90/19 front tire,TKat fork brace, XS750 140 MPH speedometer, Vetter IV fairing, aftermarket hard bags and trunk, LG high back seat, XJ rear shocks.

                        The list changes.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by BA80 View Post
                          The right tool do make it easier.
                          Yup, they really do help.

                          Het Greg, dis you ever get those races out of that one frame of yours?
                          Nathan
                          KD9ARL

                          μολὼν λαβέ

                          1978 XS1100E
                          K&N Filter
                          #45 pilot Jet, #137.5 Main Jet
                          OEM Exhaust
                          ATK Fork Brace
                          LED Dash lights
                          Ammeter, Oil Pressure, Oil Temp, and Volt Meters

                          Green Monster Coils
                          SS Brake Lines
                          Vision 550 Auto Tensioner

                          In any moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing, the next best thing is the wrong thing, and the worst thing you can do is nothing.

                          Theodore Roosevelt

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