How to Change/Lube Driveshaft U-Joint

[James England]

usually with u joints its the whole thing that gets replaced not just the caps and needles.

Are you referring to the 'cross' and the cups/needles? If so, you're correct. I've used refurb kits on several vehicles. But recently, I found a bearing site that sells only the cups and wondered if some would fit.

[natemoen]

Are you referring to the 'cross' and the cups/needles? If so, you're correct. I've used refurb kits on several vehicles. But recently, I found a bearing site that sells only the cups and wondered if some would fit.

Yup, that is what I was walking about.

[CaptonZap]

Are you referring to the 'cross' and the cups/needles? If so, you're correct. I've used refurb kits on several vehicles. But recently, I found a bearing site that sells only the cups and wondered if some would fit.

I just relubed a U-joint, and noticed the bearing cups have a name and number on them. You might try your source and see if they can cross them.
The name is KOYO, and the number is KC1115B-IU.
I didn't measure the cups and spider, but I have another set to do, and I can get some measurements , if anybody wants to try and find a match. I do know that you aren't going to drill lube holes in the caps or spider without some pretty exotic equipment. They are harder than the hubs of hell. CZ

[skids]

Most excellent write-up!

[James England]

I did the lube thing on a spare UJ joint I had and this is just a little follow-up for people thinking of doing the same thing.

After removing the C clips, two of the bearing cups on the same axis came out very easily with a hard push by hand. There's no wear on the cup housing... they just slipped out nicely with a hard hand pressure. The other two needed a light tightening in a vice with the right size sockets on each side. Again, they came out dead easy.

I dunked everything in carb cleaner and removed all the rollers, then cleaned the cups etc. I lined the cleaned cups with grease and then used a small magnetic screwdriver to lift the rollers back in, one at a time. Then put everything back together, taking care that the C clips located fully in the grooves. They can sit there, looking engaged in the slot but not being quite 'home'. I tapped them in the middle with a screwdriver and they all went in a bit further into the groove until the tap felt firm.

Whilst the joint wasn't damaged in any way and operated smoothly, it is certainly a lot better after the re-lube. It has that firm, well-greased feel to it that new components have.

I'm going to remove the UJ joint from my bike and do the same thing. I'd say it's definitely a worthwhile thing to do and thanks to ClarkGriswald for the original posting

[crazy steve]

I'll point out a little 'trick' that wasn't mentioned but is helpful in keeping the C-clips in place.

This was a required step when replacing car u-joints (or so I was taught). After you get the u-joint all assembled, lay each cross-piece across a 'bridge' (a open vice works) and lightly tap each side until the C-clip is against the yoke and won't turn freely. This extra friction will help retain the clip. Not so much of an issue with internal clips, but it definitely helped with external clips as I've seen them fly out if this was skipped. But seeing how you're reusing the clips and they may not have same spring tension as new ones, probably not a bad idea and it can't hurt...