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**suicide silence** · 09-19-2008, 11:46 AM

i posted about petcocks awhile ago and didnt get much of a reply. I looked around and found old xs11 posts about it though. I got my petcocks from z1enterprises.com. They are single outlets and need an adapter to fit the tank. Here is the exert that helped me.

Pingel makes adapters that will fit, they also make a boat load of petcocks. The adapter plate is 3/8" thick, 3/4" wide and about 2" long. It's chrome plated and has a 3/8" NPT hole in it with a counterbored hole at each end for Allen screw mounting to the tank. comes with gasket also. The bolt hole spacing is 34mm..C/L to C/L...Adapter # A1602C.. This fits the tank on my 79SF... If standards have the same spacing this will fit them also. The petcocks I have are dual outlets with no reserve...They have single outlets with reserve or dual.., they also with make whatever you need ..They all come chrome plated and are really good looking.. You need to get internal height measurement of the tank from the petcock tank opening to verify that their filter screen will clear. I didn't have that problem because mine doesn't have a reserve valve, making the filter screen very short. The Petcocks I bought cost $70.20 each and I the plates are $9.65..each..Remember these are not set up for vacuum.

when you look up the xs11 on z1 enterprises it recomends petcocks... i got the cheap "custom chrome" petcocks and they seem to be working very well. The only down side to these is you need to round out the holes in the tank so the round petcocks can fit, and since it doesnt use vaccum you have to turn off the gas every time you stop the bike. I paid about 75 dollars for everything (2 adapter plates, 2 petcocks and shipping)

hope this helps

**egsols** · 09-19-2008, 11:54 AM

Welcome and enjoy, don't be afraid to use the search function and visit the tech tips section.

1. lets start with 4, check you serial number, found on the headset, and also on the motor, if the motor is original. Then cross it agains this link http://xs11.com/specifications/serialno.shtml

1. Petcocks are vacuum on standards and use an octopus on specials.

2. Check on ebay or with one of the members here, andreashweiss

3. Get another tach, I doubt they can be fixed, mine wobbled and I replaced it. Works fine now, but you are right, they wont work right if the bike is not charging.

4. See 1 above

5. Good question, again ebay or andreashweiss, I think I also saw a link somewhere where a graphics company makes new faces. http://www.stargis.net/webslinger/Im...eedo/index.htm

**bikerphil** · 09-19-2008, 01:09 PM

tach

Clean all your connectors, especially the ones behind the fuse panel. Clean the grounds, one at the voltage regulator, one at the back of the middle drive unit. Apply di-electric grease. Last but not least, the tach comes apart and you will probably find corrosion on the PC board inside. Clean it up, re-heat the solder joints if needed, and lube the moving mechanism. Mine did the same and is smooth as silk now. HTH

Oh, and welcome to the forum!

**redbone** · 09-19-2008, 01:10 PM

petcocks etc.

petcocks etc.
if it's a 1980 special..a rebuild kit for the petcocks are pretty cheap. [check mikesxs.com or georgefix.com]. check ebay for tachs. usually not to pricey for an 1980. fyi my choke lever is broke too...again , found on ebay occasionally [altho i still haven't got mine]. hope this helps.
p.s. check brakes to see if they are hangin up....another notorious headache on xs11's if they sat for a while.

**dbeardslee** · 09-19-2008, 01:33 PM

I went through the whole petcock rebuild thing a while ago. Problem is you can get variable results. Thirty-year-old-oxidized metal just aint what it used to be. Had mine working great for about six months, then they started leaking again. Finally just s-canned 'em and bought a couple from partsnmore.com. $29 ea. for the petcocks plus $6 ea. for the adapter plates. You loose the vacuum activation - just 'on', 'off', and 'res' - but you've got brand new petcocks that don't leak. My $.02.

**greengoon3** · 09-19-2008, 05:02 PM

Thanks for all the quick replies!
The wife and I took a 150 mile ride this afternoon to check her out. Ran good ! 1 of the fuel lines developed a split. New lines in hand and ready to replace tomorrow. So far so good runs really strong. After market exhaust werker I think it is. 4 into 1. Not too lound. Alot of electrical work to look at. I have already replaced the fuse panel. Any idea where I can get a main 30 amp fuse?
It is shorter then the 3AG type I installed to replace the old JUNK!
George

**3Phase** · 09-19-2008, 06:17 PM

Originally posted by greengoon3
Alot of electrical work to look at. I have already replaced the fuse panel. Any idea where I can get a main 30 amp fuse?

It is shorter then the 3AG type I installed to replace the old JUNK!
George

George, welcome to the forum! The 30 amp main fuse is an AGX30 and they're getting hard to find.

If you can't find them anywhere locally I just bought a ten-pack of them from Yamaha. I can spare a few fuses.

Regards,

Scott

**fredintoon** · 09-20-2008, 12:09 AM

Hi George,
you say you have already replaced the fuse panel; um, with what?
Glass tube fuses are garbage, replace them all with spade type fuses.
Your main fuse & holder can be replaced with a separate spade fuse and holder or the 30A main fuse can be wired to your replacement multi-fuse block.

**Montreux_Blue** · 09-20-2008, 01:39 AM

My tach bounced around, so I took it off and sprayed a split second squirt of wd40 next to where the shaft goes through the back of the gauge face. If you take the tach out of the housing, you'll see it is sealed, but has 5 (if I remember right) holes. Most of them you will see parts of the circuit board, one you can see the back of the gauge face. If you look through that hole at an angle you should be able to see around where the shaft is. Use wd40 with the red straw,make sure the straw is dry, and literally give it a split second puff, more gas than fluid. Don't spray the circuit board!
http://www.xs11.com/tips/repair/repair16.shtml

**XSPastor** · 09-20-2008, 06:23 PM

Even though the speedo and tach are "sealed" you can open them up and lube/repair them internally. I have done it. It wasn't that hard - just took patience. As an added bonus, you can clean the inside of the glass. It's nice to have a clear gauge to read again!! There are tech tips about this.

**vanhump** · 09-20-2008, 07:59 PM

Hey Greengoon, Top Cat ( T C Gresham) Lives in your area and is an XS Guru and Expert. You may be close nieghbors.

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1980 XS1100 newbie questions

1980 XS1100 newbie questions

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