If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
I'm glad that I managed to catch this thread as I've been having problems with the engine cutting out for no apparent reason. I was thinking more along the lines of a poor ground (haven't had a chance to check yet and, still a possibility) but, after reading this thread, I think that the investigative direction is about to change.
XS'ers XSperiences to the rescue once again
1980 XS11 LG (Diablo)
1980 XS11 G (Bagger)
1978 XS11 G (White Knight)
1978 XS11 G (Skeleton)
2016 SS (S.S. Flyer)
During the day it's hard to see the lights going on and off along with the ignition but riding that last 150 miles to Salinas at night made me feel like I was back in the Signal Corps.
Regards,
Scott
-- Scott
_____
♬
2004 ST1300A: No name... yet
1982 XJ1100J: "Baby" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1980 XS1100G: "Columbo" SS Brakes, '850 FD, ACCT
1979 XS1100SF: "Bush" W.I.P.
1979 XS1100F: parts
2018 Heritage Softail Classic 117 FLHCS SE: "Nanuk" It's DEAD, it's not just resting. It is an EX cycle.
♬
Since Swamp thing came from here in Louisiana, maybe she needs a taste of salt air and a few hurricanes. After that she will be glad she is in Pa. and never give you trouble again.
Mike Giroir
79 XS-1100 Special
Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.
Originally posted by randy Alaways the diplomat, Ben!
Hey, are you coming to Torrington?
Hey Randy...I'll be in CT at the Honda ST rally known as CT-STOC(STOwnersClub) Sept 18th -21st.Friday and Sat. will be our daytrpis...dont think or know if we'll be in Torrington...I will ask the "dis-organizers".It would be cool to hook up with you again...if not have an Arrogant Bastard for me
Here's an update. I started out planning to replace both connectors but after I removed the ignition switch I noticed that the wiring harness on the switch had significantly smaller gauge wire than the main harness wires!
I measured, the main harness has #12 wire and the switch has #18. Being such a short wire run through the switch, the #18 shouldn't make much of a difference, but it was a surprise and it's possible that the smaller wires did contribute to some of the heating of the connection. I decided not to tempt fate and changed the switch tails to #18 wire.
I'm curious to know what's out there, whether my switch wiring is just an anomaly, or is it normal? BTW, it's an OEM switch. If by chance you've got the headlight bucket open, take a look at your wiring, let me know what you find.
Randy, The wire IS OEM from looking at my '78 through 80 stable. I DID replace the wires from the switch to the connector on "Daily Ride", and after about 60K have NOT had any problems. My plan is to do the same on ALL my bikes, just to keep the resistance/heat down.
Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
Randy, I know you are an electrical guy so let me ask a stooooopid question. Isn't #12 wire bigger diam than #18? Did you get your wires crossed, or am I misfiring again. Damn those drugs in the 70's!
Originally posted by randy I decided not to tempt fate and changed the switch tails to #18 wire.
Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
I had to replace my switch on my 81SH, and the OEM wires were just as heavy as the harness. BUT the replacment wires that came with the new switch were much thinner! SO...since the wires/contact plate was still in good condition on my OEM switch, I just swapped out the contact plate and OEM thicker wires onto the new switch..needed the key mechanism of the new one. Has worked just fine.
The replacement one from PNM wasn't wired correctly either for the bike, so with the swap, the wires switched properly also!
I'm sure that was a TYPO and you meant 12ga wire that you used to replace the 18ga!!
T.C>
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case! History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
I'm sure that was a TYPO and you meant 12ga wire that you used to replace the 18ga!!
OOPS!
Sorry, guys, my brain has not been working quite properly latley. Got a lot going on and I'm not quite myself!
You are correct, that was a typo, yes #12 is larger than #18.
The first person who can tell me why the larger diameter wire has a smaller # will win the valve tool that Prom is raffling (if i win it, of course! ).
Perhaps it's like the F-stop ratings for camera aperture openings? An F16 is a much smaller sized hole than an F2.8! The size is listed according to how many of the size of circles the aperture is closed down to would fit into a certain standard sized hole.
So with an #18, it's smaller and you could fit 18 of them into a certain sized hole, whereas with #12, it's larger and so you can only fit 12 of that sized wire into the same sized hole/opening???
T.C.
T. C. Gresham
81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case! History shows again and again,
How nature points out the folly of men!
Increasing gauge numbers give decreasing wire diameters, which is similar to many other non-metric gauging systems. This is derived from the fact that the gauge number is related to the number of drawing operations that must be used to produce a given gauge of wire; very fine wire (for example, 30 gauge) requires more passes through the drawing dies than does 0 gauge wire.
Thanks, Edlr... I'm more partial to T.C.'s explaination...
I can fit 18 thinner wires in a hole that would only hold 12 thicker wires.
Need to make a clarification:
I'm not raffling anything.
The tool comes from another member. (though he's a "Tool" at times.)
I just started the thread for him.
"Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)
Comment