LED lights, front brake not activating light

[prometheus578]

"I gots da blues..."

Ok... the blue wire, as you can figger, is for the running lights for both front bulbs.
The dark green and the chocolate one are for the turn signals.
The front signals ground through where they mount to the forks.

Now then... with your aftermarket lights...
I can remember with a double filament bulb, which filament is for running lights and which for turn signal operation... so here's what ya do.
Hook up the original lights again.
Turn on the ignition and see which filament lights up.
Then, connect the wires to the new lights, and switch them around till the same filament lights up on them.
Oh wait... damn, forgot that these are LEDS.
Really won't matter much then. Either they have circuitry to make them flasher brighter when signalling, or they only use some LEDs for running, and when signalling, they light up the rest.

on my flashers is the ground the black wire & on the xs the chocolate & dark green?

Both wires are hot wires... one for running and the other for flashing. The turn signal unit should ground where it mounts.
Hard for me to really say without actually looking at the lights.

[Korr]

I switched out the LED's. Not using them

I got rid of the LED's. I'm using regular aftermarket lights now.

[Korr]

single bulb

[Korr]

These are the ones i am runnign now

Here's the link to the ones i am running now. I just connected the stock signals and now they no longer flash They just stay on and then turn off if i signal. I know for sure the wiring in the headlight is connected correctly. All the same symptoms are there with the stock lights except that they do not give that medium glow on the turn signal indicator on dash. I tried switching the wires around for the stock lights and the aftermarket ones, but no luck. Could i have fried something? popped a fuse or burnt the flasher relay?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Motorcycle-Parts-Accessories__Aftermarket-turn-signals-CARBON-FIBER_W0QQitemZ150290225195QQadnZMotorcycleQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadiZ2863QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item150290225195&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C65%3A1%7C240%3A1318&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245

[prometheus578]

"I'm a bit confused."

Ok, you posted "Single Bulb".
Now, does this mean "Single Filament"?
Meaning.. one filament inside the glass bulb... one contact blob on the bulb.
Double filament ... there are two wires in the bulb.. there are two contact blobs on the bulb.
The front signals take dual filament bulbs. The rear signals take single filament bulbs.
Most turn signal assemblies ground where they mount to the bike.
Now, are you saying that you have duel filament up front, single filament in the rear, and are experiencing this problem?
Popped fuse you'd have no lights at all.
Don't see how you could ruin a flasher relay. They run on 12 volts, so it's not like you could get too much voltage in there and fry it. They usually go bad due to rust, crap and old age

[Korr]

oh oops sorry , they are single filament bulbs up front. the rear turn signals are stock, i have no idea if it's 1 or 2. I found the package that the signal lights came in. it says the black wire with a white stripe is the hot one and the plain black wire is the ground.

oh crap i need dual filaments up front! thanks Prometheus woohoo!!!

i will try to get a pair of dual filament turn signals for the front and see if that fixes it. i am still a little worried as to why the stock signals no longer flash.

[xsilerating]

Re: Load of ^%$##!!

Originally posted by xschop
A Load resistor defeats the purpose of Using LED's (getting rid of system LOAD)and they get dangerously HOT, get a true 100% digital flasher....

"Dangerously Hot"... better believe it!

My LED's on the rear of the bike worked well when coupled with the filament bulbs on the front however, when I changed the fronts to LED's, they would only flash when the RPM's were over 2K.

Having a load equalizer (LE) on hand, which I purchased a while back when considering the switch to LED's, I decided to install it yesterday. Fortunately, following its installation and, while taking my time cleaning up and putting everything back in its place, I happened to look over where the LE was placed and noticed that the cable tie that I thought I had fastened tight, was lying on top of the fender adjacent to the LE. I quickly realized that it had MELTED off and, without thinking, I grabbed the LE and instantly gave myself 2nd degree burns to one of my fingers and my thumb. The LE had already begun to melt through the plastic fender!

With the exception of seeing the cable tie lying beside the LE, there was no other indication, visible to the eye, of the INTENSE HEAT being generated by the LE. However, after grabbing hold of and quickly dropping it, it became apparent that the LE had melted through the underside of the shrink wrap in which it was encased and, was melting through the sheathing on its own wiring. I had installed it adjacent to the wire harness and fortunately, it had not begun to melt through the harness casing, though there was considerable heat built up where it was connected to the wiring to the signal lights.

As I previously stated, it was fortunate that I had taken my time putting things back together because, had everything been put back, I dread the thought of what the severity of the consequences could have been . Had the hard bags been re-attached, the seat put back on and, the bike covered up, the bike could have possibly, conceivably and, realistically, been burnt to a crisp And, while not only possibly destroying the bike, it could have also caused considerable damage to the car and house, which were in very close proximity.


The LE came with the following warning(?) in the instructions:

"Note: The resistor may generate some heat" REALLY ?!?!?

I apologize for the length of this post however, I found that it was necessary to not only provide a 'complete picture' of this incident but, to also give credence to xschop's warning. I don't know if what I experienced was extremely rare or has some frequency to it however, I felt that it was essential to warn/advise fellow XS'ers (and, anyone else) of the possible dangers that could exist with the use of Load Equalizers.

[strippedFJ]

Simple, you either have an electrical issue, or the load resistors aren't of the correct wattage/faulty.

I've use wire wounds on headlights, more power, longer on times, without excessive heating issues.

As I said load resistors are common in the streetfighter world, without the problems you guys are reporting.

[Crazcnuk]

Resistors are rated in watts. Just like heaters or light bulbs. They take excess electricity and convert it into heat.

A 25 watt resister will have to dissipate 25 watts worth of heat, 50 watt - 50 watts of heat.

an 1157 bulb takes 27 watts when the 'bright' filament is in use, so theoretically you would need a 25 watt resistor for each bulb you replace with an LED.

I just went with the electronic flasher. Now the signals will flash whether the bike is running or not.

I can probably run the 4-way flashers for a couple of hours now before the battery dies, instead of the 15 minutes or so with regular bulbs.

[Korr]

Electronic Flasher from Kragen

I will pick this up after work. This should work even though it only has 2 pins right? It's from Kragen

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BLZ&MfrPartNumber=FL32&PartType=121&PTSet=A

[Crazcnuk]

The ones I have are 2 prong.

[Korr]

oh ok cool.

[Korr]

Electronic Flasher

I picked up the 2 prong electronic flasher, but only the right side flashes hahaha. I even tried to exchange it for a 3 prong, but the 3 prong didn't flash at all. oh well. I'll just go exchange it again for the 2 prong and settle for right side flashers only

[TopCatGr58]

Korr,
If one side works, then the flasher works, and yes as we told you in the beginning, the 2 prong is what is needed, just have to try it one of 2 ways that it plugs into the plug to find out which way is the working way.

Check the ground wire on the rear light, the corrode where they are under the fender around the mounting post. The left ones worked before you started this LED swap IIRC, so it's probably something in the wiring, but could also be a bad bulb in the rear as well!?
T.C.

[xsilerating]

Originally posted by strippedFJ
Simple, you either have an electrical issue, or the load resistors aren't of the correct wattage/faulty.

I've use wire wounds on headlights, more power, longer on times, without excessive heating issues.

As I said load resistors are common in the streetfighter world, without the problems you guys are reporting.

Not knowing the intricacies of how these items work (as a consumer, are we really suppose to?), the one that I had ordered I did so from a reputable motorcycle supply company in the U.S.

On the exterior of the package there is a sticker that states "Load Resistors for LED Turn Signals" as well as the manufacturers/distributors name.

Inside, along with the load resistors, is a sheet which states the "Wiring Instructions" (which I carried out to a "T"). Other than the wiring instructions was a cautionary note, as stated in my previous post.

Nowhere on the exterior of the package, on the wiring instructions sheet nor, on the load resistor itself, does it give ANY information relating to the specifications of the product (i.e. wattage, ohm's or amp's). The description of the product that was provided on the company's web site (where I purchased the product), simply stated that it was a load resistor for use with LED turn signals. No specifications were given.

So, as a consumer in search of a load resistor (what ever the he!! that was) for use with LED turn signals, I went in search for and purchased a product which was appropriately described as meeting the established need, only to end up experiencing what I had described in my previous post.

Following Crazcnuk's post (thanks for the explanation), I went and had a closer look at the load resistor. The rubberized casing that covered the load resistors had partially melted back so, I cut it away and was able to have a closer look at the actual resistors themselves. Imprinted on each one (there are 2) is: 10w 3.3(symbol for ohm's). As they are wired together, I presume that this would provide for 20w of heat dissipation. However, according to Crazcnuk's explanation, then even this wouldn't be sufficient to handle 1 replaced incandescent bulb let alone two that would be working at any given time or, 4 if the emergency flashers were engaged.

Nowhere, I repeat, nowhere was there ANY indication that the load equalizer that I had purchased, was insufficient to handle the turn signal function of LED bulbs. This, to me, is a serious 'flaw' in the description of the apparatus and, with the way it is marketed/sold.

Makes me wonder just how many other unknowing, unsuspecting consumers there are out there who purchase these items with the assumption and expectation that they will do what they claim to do and are fortunate enough to not experience what I had gone through.

(strippedFJ stated:"As I said load resistors are common in the streetfighter world " you said that? When?)
And, strippedFJ, not all of us have detailed knowledge of electronics nor, the experience associated with the use of such products to know what should or should not be, what is correct or incorrect with respect to 'loads', 'watts', etc. to be able to adequately assess such situations.
While I have a pretty good knowledge of electrical issues such as correct wiring procedures, electrical shorts, etc. when it comes to resistors, capacitors, and other items specific to the field of electronics, for the most part, that's a bit beyond my field of expertise, training or experience and, I would suspect, beyond most people's knowledge or capabilities. I'm happy for you that you, are so experienced and knowledgeable, but I don't think that you should assume that we all possess such knowledge and abilities.