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  • Handlebar Slippage

    I just installed new handlebars, and at night when it gets colder, the bar must contract, because it slips, as in tilts downward when i come to a stop! I noticed the new handlebar didn't have any grooves like the old ones did, what should i do?
    1979 Eleven Special - 26,000 miles.

  • #2
    I would suggest you get a piece of rubber and clamp it down under the mount . Wrap it around the bar then torque it down. It should help hold it stable.
    2 - 80 LGs bought one new
    81 LH
    02 FXSTB Nighttrain
    22 FLTRK Road Glide Limited
    Jim

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    • #3
      Hi 'boom,
      betcha the clamps are bolting down solid before they get a real good grip on that smooth aftermarket 'bar so the 'bar can slip round in there no matter how hard you reef on the bolts.
      My son fixed that exact problem by drinking a beer. Once the can is empty cut it up with kitchen scissors to make two pairs of half-circle shims and install them between the 'bars and the 'bar clamps. These added shims will ensure that the clamps get a real good grip on the 'bar and won't bottom out before they do so.
      Fred Hill, S'toon
      XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
      "The Flying Pumpkin"

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      • #4
        u could also file down the
        tops of the brackets, thatll also
        give a tighter fit.
        pete


        new owner of
        08 gen2 hayabusa


        former owner
        1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
        zrx carbs
        18mm float height
        145 main jets
        38 pilots
        slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
        fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

        [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

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        • #5
          Originally posted by fredintoon
          Hi 'boom,
          betcha the clamps are bolting down solid before they get a real good grip on that smooth aftermarket 'bar so the 'bar can slip round in there no matter how hard you reef on the bolts.
          My son fixed that exact problem by drinking a beer. Once the can is empty cut it up with kitchen scissors to make two pairs of half-circle shims and install them between the 'bars and the 'bar clamps. These added shims will ensure that the clamps get a real good grip on the 'bar and won't bottom out before they do so.
          This is actually a very good idea, we used to do it back in the 80's for worn/small bars. The aluminum strips give a degree of vibration damping to the bars, without giving the bars a rubbery mount feeling, or deadening road feedback too much.

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          • #6
            Sounds good. I was "reefing" on the bolts pretty good! I will try the can thing!
            1979 Eleven Special - 26,000 miles.

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            • #7
              If you need any help drinking the beer let me know! hahaha!

              Wouldn't just wrapping some electrical tape work just the same? Thats what i would try first or the rubber pieces under it! Either way man good luck!
              Yes it's a damn nice bike, yes it's in REALLY good condition, yes it would be a shame to chop it, BUT damn how cool would it look with ape hangers?

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              • #8
                well, putting pieces of can in there doesn't seem to help at all, they just kinda smush... i might go get a couple pieces of rubber or something.
                1979 Eleven Special - 26,000 miles.

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                • #9
                  Cut some emery paper and use a glue pencil to glue them to both sides of the handle bar clamp with the rough surface facing the bars, if the bars are extra slick cut the paper twice as long and double it over with the glue in between the layers. This has always worked for me.
                  Fastmover
                  "Just plant us in the damn garden with the stupid
                  lion". SHL
                  78 XS1100e

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                  • #10
                    beemer bars?

                    Hi 'boom,
                    were the new bars by any chance meant for a BMW? For reasons that escape rational thought BMW bars are 22mm diameter instead of everyone else's 7/8" (22.2mm) diameter. That is, BMW bars are 0.008" smaller. That would definitely give the symptoms you describe. Try 2 layers of beer can.
                    Fred Hill, S'toon
                    XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
                    "The Flying Pumpkin"

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                    • #11
                      How about using a sharp center punch and hammer in a bunch of dimples where the bars and clamps meet. Kinda like knurling...

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                      • #12
                        I think that if I was madly in love with the bars and want to keep them forever, I would find a friend that has a table saw. Lay a sheet of course sandpaper grit side up and start rubbing the top clamp back and forth and every so often I would try the clamps to see if they snug up. You can then use a higher number sandpaper to polish the clamp a little and tighten the clamps and ride!! Just a little shadetree machining.
                        J.D."Jack" Smith
                        1980G&S "Halfbreed"
                        1978E straight job
                        "We the people are the rightful masters of both congress and the courts, not to overthrow the constitution, but to overthrow the men who pervert the constitution." Abraham Lincoln

                        Life is like a coin, you can choose to spend it any way you wish, but you can only spend it once. Make your choices wisely.

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                        • #13
                          I tried using rubber on my high pegs on my crash bars, still moved. Ened up cutting stips from a dryer vent (like the can idea) and it worked great.
                          Current Rides: '82 XJ w/Jardine 4-1's, GIVI flyscreen, '97 Triumph Trophy 1200
                          Former Rides: '71 CB350, '78 400 Hawk, '75 CB550/4;
                          while in Japan: '86 KLR250, '86 VT250Z, '86 XL600R, '82 CB450(Hawk II), '96 750 Nighthawk, '96 BMW F650

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