turn signal problem

[beechfront]

one of my turn signals does not work - i am not certain of what the correct term is to describe this part - i will call it the blinker relay. i can hear/feel it close (blinker on) but will not open the circuit. parts store wants nearly $40 for the part. i bought a similar part for my car for $3. With minimal modifications, is there any way I can get a cheaper blinker relay to work? I also saw what was called a 'flasher cancelling unit' on ebay for $6. I am assuming this is the same thing - but would rather use new parts if possible.

thanks in advance.

Cory

[lostgmc]

turn signals

Is the part you are refering to the one by the fuse box or the one under the seat the one by the fuse box I converted mine to an electronic one from the parts store for about $10 or so I beleive that the part number is EL-12 it is a two blade one and there are two ways to but it in because the original one is three blade one way it works the other way it does not I have had mine this way for some time now with no problem

[xssiveone]

Is it just one side, or one signal, (ie front or back)? If one side doesn't work, but the other does, then I don't think the flasher is suspect. I would start by checking your wiring connections, especially the ground points.

[beechfront]

it is just the one side. i will check over the wiring.

thanks.

[yuddy]

Mine was doing the same thing.
Turned out that my left rear turn signal was so rusted inside it just wouldn't work.
I bought a new set of front signals so I could have running lights on the rear too.

[NOMAD]

If it's just one side it's probably a bulb, a socket or wires. Do your front and rear lights both come on but not blink? If not start checking for problems with the one thats not lit.

NOMAD

[Jerry]

Problems with tur signals are usually in the rear assembly. Front has 3 wires: Ground, running, and turn. Rear lights just have 1, running, and depend on stem to frame contact for a ground. Not good.

Take the lens off the rear assembly. remove the bulb. Look at the socket and you will see a small strap held in place with 2 small screws. Take these screws out and remove the strap. Chances are you will find the bottom side covered with corrosion. Clena it off with fine sandpaper or steel wool.

With a 12v test lamp, available at most auto parts stopres for around $4 - $5, put the positive probe on the center contact in the socket and ground the light's other lead to a good ground point. Turn on the ignition. Turn on the turn lights. Test light shoucl light up, indicating you have power to the lamp. If no power, you will need to backtrack the power wire until you find a bad connection or break, but this is not very common.

Remove the turn signal stem from the bike. Stem to frame contact makes the ground circuit. Clean the end f the stem, the bracket it contacts, and the nut/washer that hold it in place. Reassemble. Put strap back in assembly and replace the bulb. try turn light again. If the bulb is good you should be back in business.

I test bulbs with my battery charger, positive on the contact points and negative on the bulb case. Be careful, as bulbs heat up quickly and are hot enough to burn your skin.

It is also handy to have a continuity checker, either a light or test meter, to check for bad grounds. Put one probe on the strap and the other to a good ground point on battery or frame, and light should come on or meter give a reading. Another quick and dirty solution is a wire with a coulple clips; clip one end on the strap and the other to a ground point. If the light starts to work you know it is a grounding problem.

Be aware that flashers need a certain amount of voltage to work. If battery is marginal, or you have resistance in connections, flasher may not get enough voltage to operate. However, in the many yars I have worked on old bikes, corrosion and bad grounds account for over 90 percent of non-working turn lights, provided the bulb is good.