Removing rear brakes

[Korr]

Hi guys i'm trying to install new pads in the rear brakes, but i have no manual. Couldn't find any info on it here. I removed that big bolt on the bottom of the caliper and now it's wiggling. I saw a screw that looks like it's there to hold in the pads, but the head is slowly stripping I am doing my best to wiggle it so that i can pull it out, but it seems like it's stuck at about a quater inch up.
Any ideas guys thnxs.

[Rasputin]

See if this thread might help. As long as I get it on here right that is.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...+brake+removal

[John]

Your next option is to remove the axle, and slide the caliper and bracket off the rotr. That way you can get some vise grips on the screw and get it out. The inner brake pad actually sits in the bracket, and the screw kinda holds the caliper in place I guess. I really don't know what would happen if the screw was left out. Maybe the pad would rattle a bit?

[ross]

here 2 hook ya up....

hey there Korr......try this link....when it loads, login again....user id is "library".....password is "library"......you now have access to almost every manual for cars, trucks, bikes, atv's, etc.......(ya might wanna BOOKMARK THE SITE NOW!!).....go to small engine repair referance center....go to bikes (duh!)....you just look up the bike you got (duh!)....you now have the clymer manual for your bike in pdf format.......hope this helps....hope this helps ya out...talk 2 ya later...ross

http://web.ebscohost.com/serrc/searc...%40sessionmgr8

[Korr]

ok got it out, had to shave down the brake pad area where the retaining screw goes in to clear and go into the hole. Now i gotta bleed the brakes. thnx for the help guys whew

[Korr]

tried to bleed the brakes, i found out that i have the speed bleeder, but it's not doing anything. The rear brakes were working fine until i put in the new pads. I compressed the piston so that it would fit over the brakes and rotor. I am reading up on the spooge hole. There is alot of info on the front brake M/C, but nothing helpful for the rear M/C. When i press the rear brake pedal it doesn't do anything, no resistance at all. I pulled the rear M/C out and dumped the fluid and unscrewed that round plate with holes in it that is sitting inside at the bottom. i see that there is a bar pushing up into the M/C when i press the brake pedal. That piece of metal that the bar goes into is stuck in one spot. is it supposed to compress as i press the rear brake pedal?
where can i find this notorious spooge hole?

[Korr]

holy crap that site is awesome Ross!! thnx man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! still can't get pressure to the rear brakes heh

[mro]

Might try bleeding the MC by it's self.
Hold your finger over hole where hose attaches and then pump it.
Once you get some pressure hook up hose and bleed from caliper.


mro

[Bamper]

That site is awsome they even have stuff on the 3 wheeler I just got. Thanks a ton.

[ross]

just the passing of wisdom...

hey there Korr & Bamper....no probs.....got it from another member and i am very willing to share all that i know that helps others with the "project"...talk 2 ya later...ross

[ClarkGriswald]

I just ran into this, I took mine apart the other day and couldnt get it to bleed or pump up either. But what happend was when I was doin my gears, I think I may have pushed the brake pedal down to make room when I was removing some screws from the clutch cover (and putting it back on). Without exhaust on there I think I pushed it a little father than it normaly goes and the plunger just stuck there in the in position (in the master cyl).

Once I pulled the master cyl off and was about to take it apart.. I got it moving again and it worked so well I just popped it back on and all went well.. Mabye it got stuck when it moved a little farther than its used to when you went to rebleed it or whatever. just a guess.. hope it helps

Edit:.
Oh yeah. make sure the pads move easily in the little housing with the chromed clips/guides.. if they dont slide well after scrubbing up the guides.. (i do this with cars too) you can always clean up the rectangle slot on the sides of the pad with a small flat file, kinda tailor it to fit and move smoothly.. makes a huge diff for not sticking/binding. I get a huge amount of uses from those brass brushes that you get in the welding department.. those are great on aluminum too

[Korr]

yeah that plunger thing is stuck in there. I was trying to open the M/C up, but the bolts are damn tight on it. what you ran into describes my problem perfectly. I'll try again and hopefully i won't put anymore cuts into my fingers

[DiverRay]

Korr,
Try a LITTLE air to move the plunger back. A gun with an air compressor usually works for me. If it's still being a pill, I may be able to pop over the hill Friday to lend a hand. Send me a PM with you location and a contact number.

[Korr]

I have no air tools so i'm just gonna try to pull it out with some pliers i have at work. The tips form a square when closed. No idea what's it's called. The tip looks like this --> [_]
Save yourself from the hour long commute on a Friday. No worries I gotta get used to being my own mechanic or else i'll never be able to keep/afford her heheheh. You're lucky, no work on friday?

[Korr]

ok the plunger part came out pretty easy. it got stuck again once i depressed it, but after pulling it out a seond time it stopped getting stuck. the rear brakes work like they should now. thanks for the help guys. I would not have been able to do this without ya'll