What would you do first?

[Espiritus]

Hi, all! I am hoping to get my carbs back up and running this week when the rebuild kit arrives. In the interim, though, I thought I would ask all you modifier folks what you would do FIRST to a bike that hasn't been upgraded: still has the original fuses, air filter, no fork brace, coils, etc.

I like the look of the pod filters but have to admit that I can't figure out how the carb bank is held level without the back intake boots connecting to the airbox.

I like the new fuse boxes. I think I need a front fork brace (Tklat, of course) and mikesx's coil sure sound tempting. I am sure there are other modifier items that are important for both ease of working with these bikes and ease in finding replacement parts.

Anyone with an opinion on any of this? What say ye?

Cam

[Pat Kelly]

The first thing I would make sure works correctly is the brakes.

[SFerinTEXAS]

First is the engine. If it is not good you dont need a gas tank or brakes.. Compression. carbs(use a remote fuel supply) and spark. Then brakes and a clean fuel supply to road test the transmission.

[SFerinTEXAS]

P.S. Also do not read the second post in this forum and before the road test do not change the oil in the middle and final drives. God forgive me. TESTY IN TEXAS.

[dbeardslee]

Cam - Air, gas, and spark are needed to make it go. Gotta agree with Texas - if the motor doesn't work the rest doesn't matter. That being said, I also agree with Pat - before you move that sucker make sure the brakes work - especially the front. Even if your just pushing it around, when 560lbs gets on a little grade it's a lot easier to stop with brakes than holding the handlebars When I first got mine the front brakes weren't working. Unloading it from a tip trailer was sure interesting. Almost put the tongue of the trailer through the back window of my Cherokee.

If you still have the stock coils and wires, get rid of 'em - they're notorious troublemakers. Make sure you have the pickup coil fix. Check the gap on the pickup coils. Check and repack all bearings. Replace middle and final drive gear oil. Lube the spline on the drive shaft and zerk the fitting. I could go on and on. Matter of fact, I'm thinking of joining a support group for people who talk to much - On and On Anon. Anyway, there's always plenty of maintenance to do when putting an old bike back in service.

On pod filters, the carb hangers are plenty strong enough to hold the carbs in their proper orientation without the stock airbox. What kind of shape are your carb boots in? 10 coats or so of plastidip spray will return them to like new condition - ew, there's another one

Texas - we must have been typing at the same time. You're kidding, right?

[oldyam80sg]

Fuse block mod sounds good also.

[SFerinTEXAS]

YES I was kidding. But like the cart before the horse idea, fuel tanks . fuse blocks. pod filters etc dont matter if the engine isnt right. In fact they mean nothing until then.

[Espiritus]

update on thread

OK, guys. The brakes DO work. I was riding this bike for about two weeks on three cylinders before finally deciding to find out why the #2 wasn't firing. Have been on and off since then, have gotten pretty good at taking off the carbs, keep finding more little crud stuck in silly places.

Thought I had resolved all the above-mentioned crud, when I found more, or maybe more. I am posting about that on a separate thread.

Anyway, it had decent tires and both sets of brakes worked in an emergency stop (practiced in the local high school parking lot), the suspension is stiffer than I like in the rear and more mushy than I like in the front. Rear springs are not stock, but the PO gave me the stock ones. One fork seal has a leak (that's my project while waiting for the parts for the carb).

I did change the middle and final oil, but only because it was almost empty in the final drive and was RED. Not sure that was a good color so I bought Yamaha shaft drive oil and changed it out. Changed the regular oil as well as the filter. Checked and cleaned the airbox. I bought a compression gauge and with the help of you guys, hooked it and checked the compression which was pretty decent and consistent. I filled the brake cylinders, front and back, although accessing the rear was nearly impossible as the fuses interfered. I bought the manual, and asked when it didn't match with what was being said on this forum.

Since I use to ride alot, I knew how to adjust my clutch and throttle cables and buy beer.

Terrible wiring that is difficult to work with as is it entirely wrapped in electrical tape, but all the electrics work. Has fuses. Has airbox with one of the intake tubes obviously not attached to anything inside the box itself as it wobbles and pulls out. I have to replace the box, OR go to pods. The manifold boots are in very good, new condition. The intake boots are softer but in very good condition. Neither leak.

I can't imagine that the manifold boots could support the carbs in a level operating condition with pods hanging off the rear. I was surprised to read that they would. I thought there was some kind of machined bracket used that I wasn't finding on the forum.

So, what do I change out first: pods, fuses, coils, fork braces, et al?

I will read the second post and see what all the fuss is about!

[dbeardslee]

My vote goes for coils. Never underestimate the value of a good hot spark.

[Toolmaker Tim]

What First?

The fuse block may not be first, but the spade type is a lot more reliable than stock. Was riding in afternoon get home traffic and the ignition fuse dropped out because of weak clips. The concern level jumps when the bike suddenly quits and the vehicle behind you is a concrete truck! Just my .02.