Stumped-Electrical Problem

[XSPastor]

Your special has most certainly been modified. The OEM front master cylinder definitely had four screws on the top cover. I thinks the Mike'sXS one only has two so maybe that's the one you have. Go to the site and compare the pictures. Part #08-0265 on this page.

Tim

[fvincent]

Main fuse

Hi Fannong507. The main fuse is not on the right side of the bike to the right of the battery box. It's on the left side of the bike, in a rubber holder under the left side cover.

Floyd
'80G

[AlanB]

Hi Fanning,

Could be an LH master;It has two screws in the lid. All XS11 masters are 11/16" bore, Mikes XS version (and almost all other twin-disc bikes!) is 5/8" so you should be able to figure it out!

AlanB

[FANNING507]

Thanks for all the replies. I just cleaned the master and reinserted the old pieces. They were holding before. I had the front brake syndrome where after leaving it sit it locked up. I found the thread that talked about the need to clean the holes in the reserve fluid holder. Seems to be okay.
Working thru the circuts and testing them according to information listed in the threads. Probably will take awhile. Last nite I did find the housing on the clutch relay is brittle and broke when I removed it. I'll check for a replacement somewhere. Kim

[AlanB]

Hi Guys,

DOOH!..... just read the start of the thread; Bike IS an LH..... should have an ally reservior with two screws holding on the top; LG uses the same style of master as the earlier Specials, with a semi-transparent reservoir and four screws.

AlanB

[FANNING507]

Sucess! I found it. I hope you all check this out. Bought the multimeter, learned how to use it. For all that said check the fuses you were right. Now, for the good info. The fuses checked out. Perfectly. I even replaced them with new ones.
Some one installed a 10 amp fuse in the 20 amp slot. Check the amperage of the fuses also!!!!! The replaced 10 amp fuse checked okay in the third slot also. The new 10 amp fuse also slipped in and tested okay. It wasn't enough to handle the load, but they didn't blow. Check your amps also. Would have found it without the multimeter and magnifying glass. Okay so I'm over 40, big deal. I found it!! Kudos to all the help. Kim

[Miti-Babe]

Kim

The replaced 10 amp fuse checked okay in the third slot also. The new 10 amp fuse also slipped in and tested okay. It wasn't enough to handle the load, but they didn't blow

Just FYI, a fuse that hasn't blown has "handled the load". Good work on sorting out the fuse box and correcting the fuse ratings... IMHO you've found the fault, but haven't actually seen that you've found the fault...

The XS1100 fusebox has to be the bike's reall achilles heel... It's totally rubbish..!! More electrical "faults" are caused by poor connections in the fusebox than any other cause...

I'm adding this reply as a caution really... If you have poor connections in the fuse-box, it'll only get worse...

• poor connections cause heat...
• heat work-hardens the contacts which lose their "spring"...
• which makes their contact strength less...
• which causes poor connections...
• which causes heat...

Additionally... as the fuse-box isn't sealed from the elements, the heat accelarates any corrosion that can get in there... So loose contacts and rusty fuses... Great..!!

In the best cases, a fault occurs (as you've had) which gives an early warning sign that something is amiss...

In the worst cases, the fusebox starts to melt and causes a complete electrical failure, forcing the issue with regard to replacement...

My 2c worth..?? Replace your fusebox ASAP... Either with a "lookalike" unit (available from Ebay or PartsNMore... ) or modify the system with an up-to date "Auto" fuse box with blade fuses (The YZF1000 R1 fusebox is a reasonable fit...)

You won't regrest it, I promise...

HTH

Miti

[dbeardslee]

Kim - Here's a thread on fuse block replacement. There's a link in the first reply to TC's step-by-step instructions. You can also get the block from him. I think he charges $8 with shipping included. Just be careful not to label it like XSPastor did

[FANNING507]

I appreciate all the responses! To describe my problem and results in more detail:
The bottom of the fuse box is the power input to the four fuses. Using the multimeter on the voltage setting, the four inputs all just measured under 12 volts, but all were over 11 volts.
At the top of the fuse box, I had the same reading for all but the 20 amp slot. The 10 amp fuse in there tested good. The replacement 10 amp fuse tested good--both on the continuity setting on the multimeter. This is on the circut marked signal.
The top of this fuse circut holder only showed a slight voltage reading, less than 1 volt. A brand new 10 amp fuse inserted did not change this reading at all. When I saw it was a 10 amp fuse in a 20 amp slot, I changed it to the 20 amp new fuse I had. Instantly I had normal voltage readings. I cleaned the contacts and reinserted the 10 amp fuse--low reading again. Replaced the 20 amp fuse and back to full power.
The 10 amp fuse will not provide full power. The 10 amp fuses did not blow, but would not provide adequate power to the circut. My fuse block is okay, not corroded, and in good shape. There are no melted wires on the back. The fuse block for the auxillary power source has some rusty screws on the back, but that is the only corrosion evident. Kim

[fvincent]

Kim

Congratulations on your success, however, nowhere have you responded to or referenced the main fuse for the entire motorcycle. It is not on the right side of the bike to the left of the 4 gang OEM fuse block. That holder is for an auxiliary fuse, ( extra lights, ETC..). Your bike has 6 fuse holders. five on the right when sitting on it and one, (main) on the left when sitting on it, in a special holder. Do you agree?

Floyd
'80G

[FANNING507]

Yes I agree. When I spoke of the right side of the battery box, it was because I was standing on the right side of the bike, bent over the top. The main fuse in that position is to the right of the battery. Kim

[fredintoon]

Orientation.

" When I spoke of the right side of the battery box, it was because I was standing on the right side of the bike, bent over the top. The main fuse in that position is to the right of the battery."

Hi Kim,
never mind where you stood. Take off the left side (port) plastic cover. The cover that's locked on by the ignition key. The first thing you will see after that cover is removed, all by itself, with two red wires going to it, is a little black rubber fuse holder with a single 30Amp fuse in it. That is the main fuse. The 20 Amp fuse in the fuse block under the rightside (starboard) cover is the ignition fuse.

[FANNING507]

I know where the main 30 amp fuse is. I was trying to describe why I said "right of the Battery box".
My setup is a 10 amp ignition fuse, 20 amp signal, and 10 amp for the rest. I better check the manual again to see if PO put 10 amps in for 20 amps anywhere else. Kim

[XSPastor]

Your special has most certainly been modified. The OEM front master cylinder definitely had four screws on the top cover.

I boo booed. The LH does have two screws. I assumed that the LH master cylinder was the same as the SH. My bad.

[FANNING507]

Not a problem. Appreciate the help. I am curious why I got the wrong plunger in the master rebuild kit. Kim