cenrifugal advance

[oldnortonrider]

Bigleo, I'm assuming you've got the jim-dandy chain rivet-brad tool made by MotionPro, or similar. Worth double the price, IMO.
With the endless chain, simply dremel hone two of the chain pin ends of their bradded-ness, where you can tell they'll push through "easier" without messin' up the rollers. Works slick. If you scar up the plate, you're not using that part anyhow; replacing with the rivet-master-link.

RE; vacuum advance~~"two" (the 'proper' 2) manifold vacuum sources might be enuf to do, what you're drivin' at, to get a co-ordinated "pull". All four, might make it "full on" all the time. Would need pilot jets in the lines, of course, whether you did 2 or did 4.
Also, when Yamaha was making all these "yearly" changes, no doubt, they were willing to make power band "sacrifices" to deal with EPA. And, if I'm not mistakin', I think we had higher octane fuel(s) then. You would time different for that.

[Bigleo]

Hi old norton rider,
Yeah I have the tool, I used it on my last installation, works good removing the link once dremmelled. I wasn't too happy with the results on re riveting though. So I used the large chunk of iron on one side, flat punch on the rivet side, and ball peen hammer method. Better results in my opinion. By the way, the Yamaha/Tsubaki link is the shouldered pin kind, so you can't overtighten it like you can with some brands.
Leo

[oldnortonrider]

That tool is quite "tricky" to get it "just right" to re-rivet. There's about 4 ways it can be rigged, that's wrong, and you'll think it's the right way. It's like a chinese puzzle. Not hard, if you're doing it often. Which I don't. In November, when I'd gone 8 years since using it, it took me at least an hour, before I was satisfied, and everything was "adjusted" to make the re-rivet perfect and really simple. Had to take a break, in the middle; I wuz gettin' frustrated that I had forgotten the proper "combination".

[Bigleo]

Hi old norton rider,
I know what you mean, the part that is meant to flare the pin wants to wander off center as you tighten the tool. It could use a small centering pin that would go into the hole at the end of the rivet pin, or maybe even if it was just ground flat it would work better.
Leo

[oldnortonrider]

ok; that's what I had thought. (Not doing it right, if the push-pin has any possibility to wander.) Look at the pieces again. Hard for me to explain, without showing it. May take some digital pics, in the next few days, and try to get 'em on here. But, I'll see if I can explain, without the pics: there is a piece with a hole in the middle
~~same size as the push pin, and will fit down against the link plate with the bradded end of the pin just up in the hole of this piece that has "the large threaded " thing holding the piece with the hole in the end, against the link plate, firm. The push-pin piece screws down thru the center of all this, with the pin finally coming against the end of the link pin. Takes two wrenches to turn and do the rest. The pin can't wander, cuz the piece that is against the link plate with link pin to be pushed, is holding push pin centered. Not sure if this clears some of the "fuzz", cuz I don't have those pieces in front of me. You can't see the end of the push pen, when it's doing it's push part, cuz the piece that it's being held from wandering is around it, firmly up against the plate. Both pieces are flush against the link plate and link pin. Push-pin-piece snug against the end of the pin, and "holder" with the small hole, snug against the plate.Git your chinese puzzle out, and see if what I've 'splained here, helps.

[Bigleo]

Hi oldnortonrider,
thanks much for the info, the explanation that came with the unit was next to usless. I'll give it a try when I install the heavy duty chain.
Leo