shifting at high speed question

[NemisusDM]

Hey Guy's
I'm not sure if it's a problem but, I have trouble shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 but, only at high forward speed regardless of rpm.
(Tranny fix has been done)

1-2 at above 30 and 2-3 at above 45

[Ken Talbot]

When you shift up, do you briefly let up on the throttle to take the load of the engaged gears?

[BrianB]

I have no trany problems but when I am really hitting it hard off the light, I sometimes have a problem from first to second and end up in nutral. I am sure it is just me not shifting properly. I have not had any issue going to 3rd on up thru 5th though. Driving normal I have no problem. Guess I have trouble timing both hands and feet action quickly.

[NemisusDM]

Hey Ken,
I do let up the throttle and I hit the clutch and even if I let the rpm's drop to idle it has trouble engageing. I even have the extra steel plate and Barnett HD springs in the clutch. Mainly 1-2 but, I get a little resistance 2-3 also. All this occurs only at high forward speed, if I shift normally it's smooth.

[saddle up]

Well, I'll probably get flamed for this, but I did it on my then brand new 80G, and I do it on my 80SG. When I am really going fast, I don't use the clutch. IT works for me. You just got to close the throttle all the way when you shift, right at or just below redline. You just gotta do a firm shift for the amount of time that you do your shift, then WOT again.
Note this does not work worth a hoot for downshifting. Downshifting is exactly the opposite. Blip the throttle, use the clutch and shift. Been doing it like that all my life. On every bike I have ever used. No more clutch slippage.
I hope that there is some one else out there that can back me up on this.
You can do the same with a car....

[trbig]

If I am getting on it, I don't use the clutch either. You only need to slightly retard to the throttle... not a full off position. Often, I can do this so fast, that it's like having an auto transmission in a vehicle with a shift kit..... maybe a quarter of a second?

On downshifting, if you slow enough to where the motor is lugging a bit (Under 1k rpm) it will just click right into lower gears without the clutch.

Tod

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Nemisus,

Right after doing the Dremmel fix, it will be a little more difficult to shift out of 1st and 2nd if you did the fix on both. The undercutting really keeps the gears meshed, and unless you catch it just right, either the throttle force of the engine accelerating or the reverse tension of the engine decelerating, wheels pushing the engine, both put tension on the gears and keep them meshed! As you continue to ride it, causing some small wear and slight rounding of the edges of the dogs, then it should allow easier shifting. Just may take some experimenting with blipping the throttle or such to find the sweet spot where the tension is the least on the gears to allow you to separate them when shifting!
T.C.

[saddle up]

Originally posted by trbig
If I am getting on it, I don't use the clutch either. You only need to slightly retard to the throttle... not a full off position. Often, I can do this so fast, that it's like having an auto transmission in a vehicle with a shift kit..... maybe a quarter of a second?

On downshifting, if you slow enough to where the motor is lugging a bit (Under 1k rpm) it will just click right into lower gears without the clutch.

Tod

Well I was talking about a high speed stop using the engine breaking along with the brakes to slow down. On the WOT shifts, I might not go all the way off but I'll for sure blip the gas off
I'm glad that I got some back up on this. Thanks trbig

[NemisusDM]

Hey TC,
That makes sence! It does drag a bit more when hard shifting and going uphill and I under cut both sides of 1st and 2nd too. (accelerating and decelerating sides)

Thanks

[drunner]

About the only time I pull in the clutch is when I'm at a dead stop, or going very slowly.

At any acceleration, fast or slow, up or down, you can (and should, in my opinion) shift without the clutch. The xs11, and most shaft-driven bikes I've ridden, are very smooth when ridden this way.

To shift up, you first get ready to shift by putting a slight upward pressure on the lever. Then, you slighly ease off the throttle (no need to back all the way down). As you ease off, pull firmly, and the bike will click into gear and you'll smoothly roll on through the next gear. In my view, this is far easier than using the clutch, and is easy on the components, since, essentially, you are making your shift during the time the transmission is unloaded.

A really light bike with a strong engine and a loose chain is harder. Modern 600 class sportbikes take some time to get right, and take me about 1000 miles to learn to downshift smoothly with this method. I'm a slow learner.

To downshift, your throttle is rolled all the way down (closed), and you simply apply slight pressure to the lever, and if you just barely crack the throttle, it will slip down a gear. I will not vouch for this being effective (i.e. - fastest) at a racetrack, of course!

The same works in a car or a truck.