batt light on, brake light on???

[toolmaker]

On my xj 1100 (just bought) the following problems have been found. Batt light on the dash is on all the time, brake light also. I am guessing the pads are shot on both front and rear, I already checked the brake fluid level, It is topped off. I also notice a rattle when motor is reved? Motor run good for 20,000 miles. I have no manual and need one badly. What oil goes in the crank trans hole weight wise, can I use a full synthetic? More questions to come. I am licenced and on the road with it now. Just trying to restore it and have some fun.

[COOL TOM]

Lights

Brake light, the XJ has a foam float that lets you know when you are low on brake fluid. Sometimes the float sticks and turns the light on. Open both master cly and check the brake fluid, if they are both full don't worry about the brake light. The light has nothing to do with how bad the pads are. It is best to pull the calipers and check the pads. On the front calipers watch out for where the bolts came out because one is longer than the other and will lock up the wheel if you get them in the wrong hole.
Battery light, pull battery and check water level. Might be low on water or someone put in a battery without a sensor hole in the battery. There is a extra hole in the top of the battery next to the fill holes in the middle. DO NOT USE FULL SYNTHETIC OIL. Weight can be 10/40, 15/40, or 20/50. Don't ask what kind, this start a war on here. Full synthetic, synthetic blend, or oil that says energy saving make the clutch slip. I use Castrol 20/50 in my XJ. Get you a manual so you can adjust the timing chain. DO NOT ADJUST THE TIMING CHAIN UNTIL YOU GET A MANUAL BECAUSE YOU WILL BENT THE VALVES. The noise is probley the timing chain rattleing. Check the middle drive fuild level, and the final drive level and change them after you get a manual so you know where and how much fuild to put in them. Check the search button and you will find more infoon your bike.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Toolmaker,

Like Tom said, probably a battery without sensor hole. You can find the bypass technique in the tech tips. Folks have taken their brake MC's apart, found worn parts on the float assembly, fixed, and light goes out!

There are many tech tips to help you with the fluids, location of drains, filler holes, and types of fluids. There's an owner's manual for the 81 H/SH in the LINKS forum that will give you basic info about fluids, and I think even the cam chain tensioner technique...but there's a tech tip as well. The file is a ~6mb PDF if you want to view it.

There are many NEW tech tips that are found by scrolling down from the main forum page, NOT from the links in the left column. There's even one about making your own dip stick IF you don't have the OEM tool kit with it in it!

You CAN use full synthetics in the middle and final drive chambers, 80-90 hypoid type. Other's have posted that they have used Synth in the engine oil without slippage, but most have had problems and went back to DINO or blends! YMMV!

Also, there is a separate drain plug for the engine oil, you can't get it all from just pulling the oil filter chamber cup! And the middle drive drain is farther back beyond the oil pan in a recessed area...I think the PDF file shows it!
T.C.

[toolmaker]

first time listener long time caller

Thanks for the info just a few more questions. What is DINO and YMMV? On a good battery (new) How long or how many tries do you have to start this thing. I am living in bumb start heaven and alway tring to park in a high spot in the parking lot, or looking for a ramped truck dock. Is the starter just killing my battery? I am headed for the Links (how many hole course is it)? Seriously thanks for the help.

[Codger]

I filled my crankcase with Amsoil 20/50 full synthetic. The good news is that its use jumped my average fuel consumption rate up 3 miles per gallon. The bad news is that in my particular instance- 1980SG- it was just to slick for the clutch and transmission. Made shifting more difficult. Have now gone to a 50/50 blend of Amsoil and dino 20/50- works great and I realized a increase in mpg as well. As a side note- the engine is now much quieter with a decrease in mechanical top end noise as opposed to when I was running dino alone.

[toolmaker]

Who carries these oils

Amsol 20/50 and Dino 50/50? Autozone, Walmart, or bike dealer? I have never heard of these brands before. It also sounds like there are about 3 places to put fluids in this bike. Engine and transmission are the same oil? The front of the drive shaft looks like another filler hole and then the rear end of the drive shaft looks like another filler hole. Is this correct? and What should go in each one? and how much? Thanks again for the help.

[Guy_b_g]

Dino just means Dinosaur, translation....any non synthetic oil. YMMV means "your mileage may vary"....translation...your experience may be different.

Rotella motor oil found in Walmart is inexpensive, has no friction modifiers to make your clutch slip, and has had good reviews here, you might try that in the crankcase. 10-40 weight is fine, It is used mostly by trucking fleets.

80-90 weight oil, either synthetic or non synthetic in the middle and final drives.

Be careful not to overfill.

Here is a link here on how to make a dipstick for the middle and final drives. You can cut it out of heavy plastic or sheet metal.

http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint13.shtml

Fill your bike with fluids while on the centerstand and level, there is s sight window for the crankcase on the clutch cover near your right driver's footpeg, about halfway up the window and no higher, or you won't be able to see how much oil you have in there.

Good luck!

PS, Whatever crankcase oil you use, look for the round stamp on the bottle showing what standards it meets, only the center and top part of the stamp should have anything in it, if the outer circle on the bottom part of the stamp has anything in it, don't use it because it has friction modifiers such as moly, etc, and will make your clutch slip!

[toolmaker]

rear and middle drive

Is there a front drive (crank oil only)? Or only middle and rear oil? What grease goes in the drive shaft (saw a zerk)?

[Guy_b_g]

In answer to your other questions (on re-reading you posts), the engine oil also lubricates the transmission and bathes the clutch plates.

You are correct about the locations of the middle and final drive fill holes. They may be hard to get open if they haven't been checked in a while.

[Guy_b_g]

Zerk fitting is no good (bad design and gets no grease to the splines where needed), you will have to remove the rear wheel and left shock to grease the splines on the drive shaft at the final drive. Unbolt the four bolts around the drive shaft and pull the final drive off (don't lose the spring!), then clean out the old grease and re-grease it with a good automotive grease with moly in it. Check the splines and be sure they are square at the tips and not worn out. Also regrease the splines on the hub of the final drive. This should be done with every tire change or upon buying a used bike.

There is no front drive. Crankcase as I've described.

You need a manual!

[toolmaker]

I agree on the manual

I have been looking and have come up with all the parts manuals I can read this week so far no owners manual or clymer that is for just the XJ 1100 I keep going to the links and tech tips and just none of them have paned out yet. Who makes the maint manuals Hanes or Clymer for the XJ. I will send money today if I can find one.

[Guy_b_g]

Check this link:

It is for XS not XJ, but nearly everything is the same, except some areas of ignition system, some wiring differences, and YICS system...97% of the rest will work for you.

If you run into something that looks different, just check back at this forum.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listi...5356531&sr=1-1

[trbig]

I have the XJ manual in PDF format, but most regular email accounts won't accept it since it's 14+ mb in size. I have found that Google's G-mail will do it though if you have or want to make an account with them. PM me with the account later if you're interested.


Tod