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  • This might be the dumb as&

    Question of the year.. When you do the cam chain adjustment,,, do you do it with the engine cold or at operating temp,, hot??
    I checked in both the manuals and there was no reference...

    So hot or cold. And why? I am assuming it should be done hot,, but?
    If I knew I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself..

  • #2
    I dont think it matters,
    i prefer 2 do it when the motor is warm tho.
    pete


    new owner of
    08 gen2 hayabusa


    former owner
    1981 xs1100 RH (aus) (5N5)
    zrx carbs
    18mm float height
    145 main jets
    38 pilots
    slide needle shimmed .5mm washer
    fitted with v/stax and uni pod filters

    [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3pA8dwxmAVA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/url]

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    • #3
      did mine cold. Took away a lot of noise.

      Comment


      • #4
        Well this sort of parallels valve adjustment on an old Honda 750 or a Chevy 350. When accounting for the expansion of metal when it is hot. ' Cause that chain is going to grow when hot. If it was possible I'd like to do the shims when the motor was hot, but the time involved would kill that possibility.
        So I think that I answered my own question. Duh
        Thanks petejw..
        If I knew I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself..

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        • #5
          Valves are always set cold. The 'gap' you set is to allow for expansion when it gets hot.

          If you set to specs on a hot motor, you will have way too much clearance.
          Nice day, if it doesn't rain...

          '05 ST1300
          '83 502/502 Monte Carlo for sale/trade

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          • #6
            Ok, not wanting to get into a piss*&* contest, If you set your valves when hot, there is no gap or clearance, and there is no slop. My self,, I like a little slop as you won't burn the valves.
            On the other hand I have set my cam chain tension on the fly on the side of the road without taking off the time cover. Just had to have the two separate 10 and 12 mm wrenches to do it, and listened to the engine. Some times I knew it was bad and had to pull over in 300 feet. I haven't done this lately as I got her dialed in COLD. But I believe that is is better doing while hot. Just be prepared to get blisters on your knuckles.lol
            If I knew I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself..

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            • #7
              I like to set the cam chain tension cold. Helps eliminate header pipe burns.
              I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

              '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

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              • #8
                Helps eliminate header pipe burns.

                Ahhhh... the old XS tattoo/brand. Been there, done that... got me a brand new one on the leg this weekend! lol

                I hate when I hear that frying sound for a split second before the screaming nerve endings' signal reaches my Neanderthall brain. It's hard to rub out the fingerprints stuck to the headers that used to belong to the skin that was stuck on you! So yeah.... do it cold.


                Tod
                Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

                You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

                Current bikes:
                '06 Suzuki DR650
                *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
                '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
                '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
                '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
                '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
                '81 XS1100 Special
                '81 YZ250
                '80 XS850 Special
                '80 XR100
                *Crashed/Totalled, still own

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                • #9
                  My guess would be cold. Most static measurements and adjustments are done cold because room temperature is a more stable temperature. Not possible to keep a hot motor hot while doing measurements.

                  Consider this. If operating temp of the motor is 200 degrees (guessing here) and room temp is 72 degrees then that is a 128 degree temp change. If the length of the cam chain is about 3 feet, then if you apply the coefficient of expansion for steel over a 128 degree temp change then the chain will expand a total of only .0024"....negligable. So, check it cold.
                  Mike Giroir
                  79 XS-1100 Special

                  Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.

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                  • #10
                    Thanks TADracer

                    Originally posted by TADracer
                    My guess would be cold. Most static measurements and adjustments are done cold because room temperature is a more stable temperature. Not possible to keep a hot motor hot while doing measurements.

                    Consider this. If operating temp of the motor is 200 degrees (guessing here) and room temp is 72 degrees then that is a 128 degree temp change. If the length of the cam chain is about 3 feet, then if you apply the coefficient of expansion for steel over a 128 degree temp change then the chain will expand a total of only .0024"....negligable. So, check it cold.
                    , I sort of answered my own question, Sort of like talking to myself on line..lol But I agree with you, and I liked it better adjusting cold. Sounded better and ran better by the seat of the pant's dyno.
                    If I knew I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself..

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