Oil leak problem / question XJ

[Jerry]

OK. I had an oil leak, traced it to oil coming out of the alternator cover drain hole. Trbig had posted a note about a blind plug with an O-ring under the cover. I removed the blind plug, replaced the O-ring with a Yamaha original part. (Was very surprised the local dealer had it.) Cleaned the plug, bore, and lightly lubricated the ring before I installed it.

Still have an oil leak. Looking at the pars fiche for the crankshaft, there is an oil seal on the alternator end labeled as "Seal, pushrod". Anyone ever have to change this out?

I am guesing it requires splitting the engine cases. If so, anyone interested in buying an XJ? Cheap?

Anyway, am looking for first-hand knowledge, and either confirmation of having to split the cases or if the seal can be replaced form the outside after removing the alternator. Any help would be appreciated.

[John]

That seal can be pried out and a new one driven in. You will have to remove the rotor though. The old seal may have a lip around the OD that sets into the engine case, but it still can be pried out, and the new seal doesn't have that lip.

[trbig]

Dangit John... SHHHHHHH!!!!!



Jerry, you will have to remove the rotor if it's the crank seal. The best thing I've found is a pulley puller that has a foot on it to where it doesn't spin as you're trying to tighten it up. If you have one that's just a point, it walks all over the rotor bolt and is a major PITA.

I replaced the rubber seal on my galley plug before and had it still leak. What I had to finally do was clean everything up and use a little yamabond/tribond on it. Goop it up and stick it in there after cleaning it up with carb cleaner or something.

You should be able to tell one from the other. A leaking crank seal will usually get oil slung all over everything from leaking onto the rotor. If it's the galley plug, it will usually just leak out the bottom of the cover.

IF you have to buy a seal, you can get them from most places that sell bearings and seals.. usually @ $5 or less. I think the original thickness is 7.8mm.. but it's fine to buy an 8mm. Also.. try to find one that has a double inside lip. The original seal could have cut a slight groove into the crank and make it tough for a new one to seal if it's just a single lipped one.


Tod

[Jerry]

A leaking crank seal will usually get oil slung all over everything from leaking onto the rotor. If it's the galley plug, it will usually just leak out the bottom of the cover.

Well, there is no oil on the rotor as far as I can tell, and the inside of the alternator cover is very clean except for a very small area near the drain hole. Guess I'll try the Yamabond trick on the blind plug before I do anything else. Thanks to the both of you for your help.

[stereomind]

I JUST got done replacing the dreaded oil seal on the XJ1100.

I borrowed a puller bolt from the local bike shop. Nothing fancy. 16x1.5mm. (BTW, thanks for the info, Tod!!)

I used a strap wrench to hold the flywheel in place as I tightened the crap out of the puller bolt.

Then, I turned around with my back to the bike, and WHOMPED the living bejeezus out of the bolt with a hammer. The flywheel just rolled off into the depths of the garage...

I cheated, and used a screwdriver and some plastic blocks as leverage points to remove the old oil seal. I cut it up with some nippers all around the perimeter, and it finally came out. I suppose if I wasn't so damn lazy I'd go and get a seal puller.

I cleaned up the inner surface on the engine block with some sand paper, dabbed some 1104 gasket maker on the new seal, and gently hammered it back in using... uh... a Quikset deadbolt tumbler housing (I just got done replacing old locks in the house, so I had a few laying around). I suppose I could've used a piece of PVC pipe, or, god forbid, the proper tool, whatever it might be

The flywheel went back on, and the leak was gone.


Vlad

[trbig]

Just be careful about TOO much force on the pulley puller with a hammer. The only thing you have on your crank to stop sideways movement is this one little HALF of a bearing. It's the saddle bearing the goes over the sides instead of just flat like the other 9. It's not real strong metal... so just be careful and only hit the puller with enough force to do what you need.





Tod

[stereomind]

yeah, no kidding! that would be bad news if that bearing gave up...

I used a fairly light hammer for the task.. I doubt it had enough mass to do any damage. But I suppose if you use a big enough sledge hammer you'd shove it right out the other side



Vlad

[Brasco18]

I noticed I have a leak from the hole at the bottom of my alternator cover as well. Can I just undo the cover and remove it? Isn't the stator bolted to the cover? I also have a leak coming from somewhere around the shifter plate. But that is a different story.

[Brasco18]

Also, what is the part I am looking for here in the microfiche? I can't seem to find it. I am looking at the microfiches on bikebandit.com.

[bikerphil]

alternator cover

Remove the 5mm allen bolts from the outer edges of the cover. DO NOT remove the 3 center bolts. These hold the stator in it's proper alignment with the rotor. That plug that was referred to is on the bottom behind the cover, you'll see it. Here's a link for a picture of the seal...

http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/imagine....ame=CRANKSHAFT - PISTON

Pictures Added by TC!

[Brasco18]

These pics are great. It gives me an idea what to look for before going in. I don't see the seal in the link you sent. If I have to order this part, say from bikebandit.com, what microfiche and part number would it be? Sorry if I am making work for you. I just hate oil leaks and want to solve them fast.

[bikerphil]

o-ring

The o-ring for the plug on the bottom is #44 in crankcase p/n 359043-001 @ $1.43 ea. If you need to replace the oil seal (one that goes around the crank), don't order it from BB. That seal will have the lip on it which you don't want. Go to your local bearing supplier and get a non outer lip seal. it's a 32-45-8.

[Brasco18]

Dang, talk about helpful. Thanks for the help! I will look into it this week.

[trbig]

They make a seal in that size that has a double inner lip on the rubber itself. Not to be confused with the metal lip on the metal part of the bearing. Over time, a groove can get worn into the crank from grit and spinning in the same place for years, and a new bearing seal sitting on this same spot may not seal. The stock bearing is 7.8mm, (The last number in the measurement given) but a 7 or 8mm will work.

You will need to remove the rotor to do this if that's what it is. If it is the galley plug, to finally get mine to seal, I had to remove the plug, clean the area and the plug well, and smear Tribond/Yamabond on it before re-installation.

DO NOT START THE MOTOR with that alternator cover off. It will fire up and run without damaging the motor and run off the battery, but that cover holds that galley plug in place. Oil pressure will shoot the plug at at a pretty good force and spew large quantities of oil all over everything.. like your leg and such as you sit there looking at it. Or.. at least that's what I hear?? lol.

Been there, done that. Hope you learn from my stupidity.

Tod

[Brasco18]

So is it ok to order the o-ring from bikebandit? just not the crank seal?