New question ref quick repair

[DJinNH]

OK, it's pretty obvious looking at my valves that I did indeed do damage to them with my mistake with the timing.

Here's the question: Can I take the head off my XS1100SH and put it on my engine of my XS1100SG while I wait to get the parts?

I know it's a lot of work but I've gotten it pretty much down now having to take this head off three times in the past four days.

Looking into the Bike Bandit website where I buy a lot of my parts, they have new intake valves but no exhaust valves. I'm guessing I will be looking around a while for those.

Ideas?

Don

[DJinNH]

I just checked the part numbers for the head gasket and valve cover gasket for each bike, the SG and SH and they are the same.

I'm thinking they could be interchangable.

Don

[GNEPIG]

If your SH head doesn't have the letters YICS on top of the valve cover, it will fit.
You can put the YICS type head on older models but there is weirdness and other things that I've never done. Ask Tod (TRBig)about that one.

[DJinNH]

I'm praying that the only reason for the different part number when it comes to the valve covers, SG vs SH is that I think the SG was silver while the SH was black. I compared the diagrams from bikebandkit.com and they look identical.

Anyway...heading on over to Maine to take the head off my SH and give it a go on the SG. If it doesn't work, at least I tried.

Don

[DJinNH]

Oh I'm having fun now. I got the powerhead off the SH and have it ready to go on the SG, probably tomorrow. Almost 8 p.m. now and it's been a full day.



Don

[blue giant]

Hey Don,

You Da Man!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Don/DJ,

Yes, your 81SH head will fit just fine on your 80SG. The YICS didn't come out till 82 with the XJ. They both used the larger valves.

It's late, I don't have the time right now to type out a step by step, besides, you have a manual, hope you have an inch pound torque wrench, not just a standard torque wrench, they are not accurate enough at the very low torque levels needed for the cam bearing cap nuts.

Main thing is to put the head on, torque it down properly, and then align the crank on the "T" mark, and then put the cams in with the dots pointing up, snug down the bearing caps so that they cams are laying flat, can be a little bit of a pain because one lobe will be hitting against a lifter/bucket and you can't get the bearing cap nuts started on that one, so I gently tighten the others a bit so that they slowly push down on the cam to push the lifter/bucket down far enough to be able to put that last bearing cap on and get the nuts started. Then you can even out the tension and get the cams flat in their bearing seats.

The cam chain is loosely draped around the sprockets and they are positioned up onto the shoulder of the cams and you see if the bolt holes line up, if not, you pull the sprocket back off the shoulder and slip it a tooth or so in the direction you need until you can get the bolt holes to line up while the dots are pointing up, and you are NOT TURNING THE CRANK.

BTW, having the tensioner out OR the lock bolt loose can allow you to pull a little more slack to be able to pull the sprockets/chain up onto the cam shoulders.

Once you get 1-ONE bolt in EACH of sprockets on each cam, you can THEN lock the tensioner bolt, and THEN you can turn the crank and the cams as one unit to access the OTHER cam sprocket bolts. Then TORQUE them to the 10 lbs, torque the bearing cap nuts, and then SLOWLY rotate the crank a few turns checking every time that the "T" mark comes up that the dots are still aligned and up, and then stop at the "C" mark, remove, tension and temp. lock plunger, replace, and then release tensioner lock bolt to SET the cam tensioner, relock, and then rotate engine/crank a few more times again checking for proper "T" and dots alignment.

Okay, hope this helps, good night!
T.C.

[DJinNH]

TC,

This should help keep me out of trouble this time. I'll make sure I follow your detailed instructions. Thanks for all the great advice. I'll let you know how it goes.

Don

[DJinNH]

Got the head on, the carbs, the airbox but now the rains have moved in. Wish I had a garage instead of working out in my parking lot. At least the head went on easily and seems to fit just right. Keeping my fingers crossed...

Don

[DJinNH]

OK TC...I followed your instructions step by step. Everything was going waaaay too smooth. When it came time to go ahead and turn the cams to get those last two bolts in the sprockets, the timing chain spun freely. DAMN!

Seems like when I had slack in the chain while putting the head on, the chain must have come off the gear or sprocket down in there deep.

That's a wrap for today (9 pm). I guess I will see if there is any way I can slack that chain enough to lower it some and see if I can catch that gear, otherwise, it's back to taking everything off again so I can get down in there.

Are we having fun yet?

Don

[skids]

I find it best to have the bike on the center stand for the job. It is OK. You have had practice. It will be easier this next time!

[DJinNH]

Well, belay my last (for us sailor types).

My buddy and I just discussed what I did and we came to the conclusion I did not follow the steps ref the tension.

Too tired so wasn't thinking too clearly before.

To be continued.....hopefully with a happy ending.

Oh ya...it is on the center stand.

Don

[Ken Talbot]

Careful there, Don, be very careful.

If you've just put on a new chain, it should not spin even if you have the slack adjuster backed way off. I had my slack adjuster come loose on Tsunami a few years back, a year or so after I put in a new cam chain. I had just adjusted the adjuster, fired up, and was going to go for a ride. The adjuster came loose, the slack chain made a he!! of a racket, but it did not jump a tooth.

If the chain has slipped at all, I would suspect it did come off the crank sprocket, and was just wedged in beside it. I would strongly advise taking it all apart, removing the cams, and starting over at step one again. Follow the assembly instructions absolutely letter for letter.

YMMV...

[DJinNH]

Ya, I don't mind taking the cams off again. I just dread any thought of having to take the head off again.

We'll see how it goes tomorrow, hopefully after a good night's sleep to start with a clear head.

Don

[DJinNH]

IT RUNS...IT RUNS...IT REALLY RUNS!!!!!!!!

All set from the best we can tell. Ran it around the parking lot and seems like all is fine now. Aaaand, no oil leaks!

Woohoo!!! Now I can enjoy my summer.

Thank you all so much for the help. TC, I went EXACTLY by your directions this time and yes, the timing chain had come off below. It was easy enough to get reseated just by taking the intake cam off and lowering the chain. Once it caught, I kept tension on it until we remounted the intake cam and sprocket.

Again, thank you all so much for the guidance and patience with this novice mechanic.

Man, am I a happy camper now!

Don