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tightening axles - what am I doing wrong?

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  • tightening axles - what am I doing wrong?

    as I tighten the castle nut to torque on BOTH front and rear, it gets harder and harder to turn the wheels by hand. Two questions...

    1. What's the tightening procedure for front and rear axles INCLUDING aligning rotors and pads? Clymers doesn't give me enough detail.

    2. How EASY should the wheels turn by hand, if torqued correctly?

    thanks,

    Keith
    1980 XS1100SG

    “You start the game with a full pot o’ luck and an empty pot o’ experience... The object is to fill the pot of experience before you empty the pot of luck.”

    Only a Biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.

  • #2
    Hey Keith,

    Perhaps you haven't seen This little tech tip in the Maintanence Tires section ?? It'll apply to your Special for the front wheel.

    The rear wheel, you can put a screwdriver into the right end of the axle, there is a tang of metal that sticks out of the swingarm that can be used to wedge the screwdriver against to prevent it from turning, so you can tighten/torque the castle nut. After torquing the rear, you should be able to spin the wheel by hand, but it won't spin freely, keep turning in otherwords. The front wheel SHOULD spin freely after you release the wheel.

    HTH? T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

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    • #3
      Hi TC;

      I reviewed your post showing the tire changing pictorial...if I read it right...

      1. you 1st center the rotors BEFORE tightening BOTH the castle nut and then the pinch bolt.....RIGHT?

      2. If that's true, aren't I spreading the two forks apart as I center the rotor? Is that ok to do?

      3. if done right, should there be NO friction (rubbing) at all when spinning the wheel?

      4. If when centered, there is some friction (rubbing) when spinning the wheel, could the problem be that the pistons are not retracting fully and causing the new pads to rub? If so, what's the fix? BTW, I just changed all pads (no rebuilds) and fluid...so brake levers appear firm.

      sorry about the numerous questions...but I'm a "budding" mechanic.

      thanks,

      Keith
      1980 XS1100SG

      “You start the game with a full pot o’ luck and an empty pot o’ experience... The object is to fill the pot of experience before you empty the pot of luck.”

      Only a Biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.

      Comment


      • #4
        Torque the castle nut first (75 lbs/ft, I think) then center the brake rotor in the slot of the right hand fork tube and tighten the pinch bolt.
        Mike Giroir
        79 XS-1100 Special

        Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.

        Comment


        • #5
          Sorry, forgot to add that if you have the calipers installed the pads will rub on the rotor slightly but the wheel should turn very easily when everything is installed.
          Mike Giroir
          79 XS-1100 Special

          Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.

          Comment

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