Horsepower Performance Set-Ups

[Spide4x4]

I just purchased a (79' XS1100sf) for the spare parts. What I want to do is, pull the motor out of it and have it pumped up!
Lots of Horsepower! I would then put it into my somewhat stock 79' XS1100sf and that way I still have the original motor.
I was wondering if anyone could tell me what engine components I would need ?

[John]

You can get either a 1179 or a 1196 cc Wiesco big bore kit. You can have the valves ground. Change to a less restrictive aftermarket exhaust, and air filter, and re-jet he carbs accordingly.
That would be a good, non-radical start.

[JustJeff]

Horsepower?

Yes...Yes I do know how...

Speed costs money, how fast can you afford to go?

It all comes down to your wallet.

If you want it to stay together, you need to build from the bottom up. Crank, rods, big bore pistons.

Then it is all about the top-end.. Valves, porting, cams, springs + keepers. CC the chambers set deck height ect.

After all that you still need carbs that will actually feed the beast, petcocks that flow enough and good exhaust.

The horsepower goes way up at that point...Until you shell your trans and blow-up your clutch basket and warp or stress crack your cases.

In the end....You end up thousands of dollars lighter turbocharged and running on race fuel.

I have been down this road. If you want to know all the bumps in your path, PM me. I can help.

[Spide4x4]

Thanks!

Hey, Thanks there JustJeff!
That's what I'm talking about, I'm not worried about cost, I want performance/speed. You would'nt happen to have a full parts list?
I can rebuild auto engines, but never touched bike motors. I would problably take it out of bike and let a pro rebuild it, I just need to know what parts I'll need for best performance. You said you've done this to your bike? Was it fast? Do you still have it?
Thanks Alot for Sharing Info. Eric

[psycoreefer]

if you really want performance/speed/power I think you'd be better off getting a modern sport bike. It will be cheaper in the long run and perform better with less invested.

That said I don't care for the riding position or style of the sport bikes so I suppose if thats where your coming from make sure you post all about your build so others can learn from it.

[DiverRay]

As Just Jeff said, speed is MONEY. You WILL need to work on the transmission BEFORE going too far with the HP. There is also a "clutch" on the shaft that feeds the clutch basket that will need to be beefed up. The crank can be balanced and lightened for about $850, new lighter, stronger rods are about $600 EACH, reground cams can be had, and you WILL need the "race" valve springs and keepers.
A 1196 cc Wiesco big bore kit, GOOD exhaust and newer carbs will get you a BIG increase and NOT cost so much. The "bottom end" on these engines WILL take a lot of power, just put an oil cooler on the engine when you pump it. JMHO

[JustJeff]

Top to bottom

The crank is beefy but the rods and oiling are the issue.

Those who say the bottom end is "Bullet Proof" are just wrong period. When you pass the 140HP mark the rods turn to spaghetti.

Forged 1196 pistons from Wiseco are the way to go. Deck height needs to be checked and all rotating assemblies likewise need to be clay checked for proper clearance. Boring should be done with a torque plate.

You don't want to lighten too much on the crank because it is a heavy bike. You would be surprised how much you can loose on the bottom end if you go too light.

The big benefit from the "super-crank" mods are found in balancing, blueprinting and increased oiling with the cross-drilled mains. They also re temper the crank and it is much stronger than stock.

Falicon Knife rods are good rods but Carillo rods are much stronger and better HANDS DOWN. I have used both. You do give up a little weight, but like I said, you don't want to go too light. Also stock rods very too much in length for my liking.

The clutch basket is not as bad as one might think. Mostly as long as you aren't doing hole-shots all the time you can probably get by with a stock basket with an extra plate (thinner plates) as long as you remain naturally aspirated.

Yes you do have to do allot with the head. You do make power with the bottom end but, mostly it comes from the head. Heavier springs are required with any cam change, you have to replace them anyway (30 year old springs...Bad). Getting the seat pressure right by shimming to the optimum spec. is crucial. As long as you don't go too crazy the stock over bucket shims will work to about 10,500 RPM. Don't be fooled by so called "drop in cams", all xs1100 heads need to be clearanced for the extra lift. Most heads also have ports that flow like a pinched garden hose along with big variations in Combustion chamber volume. If you go this far all that needs to be done too along with stainless valves.

The Primary chain needs to be replaced along with any other defects found in the tranny.

Mikuni makes great round slide smoothbore carbs in two different sizes. If you are street riding the smaller of the two are the ones you want. Stock carbs or any other CV carbs will not give you your desired result. There is just no comparison.
Stock petcocks do not make the grade either I am sorry to say. Pingle valves keep the engine from starving under sustained load.

There used to be better choices for exhaust but now the only two that are commonly available are either Mac or Jardine. Neither are real good choices for real performance, but the Jardine is a better choice as it were.

This is just a overview of the process there are other things that I do to make these things run. I wish I could say there are short cuts in the process but if you don't spend the time and money to do it right the first time, you are just wasting both. I know first hand it is what I do for a living.

Jeff

[Spide4x4]

Great Stuff

Thanks a Bunch fellows! I like the OL' SCHOOL RIDES, I also own a semi-stock 73' f-250 4x4. The information you guys supplied me is very very helpful. I believe doing it right the 1st. time, is the only way to enjoy it. Out West here you don't see these older bike even around, as a work commuter bike, I still get the ol' thumbs up every now an then.
If you come across anymore info, fell free to hit-me-up.
Thanks Again Everyone!
Eric (Newark, CA.)

[Mathh]

Re: Top to bottom

Originally posted by JustJeff
The crank is beefy but the rods and oiling are the issue.
Those who say the bottom end is "Bullet Proof" are just wrong period. When you pass the 140HP mark the rods turn to spaghetti.
Jeff

Hi Jeff, I am not the man who wants to start an argument but my bike has seen years passing with much more than 300 rwhp at 30psi of boost. In all of its turbocharged life it has covered over 130.000 miles and it has never seen less than 200 rwhp, and I have done absolutely nothing to the stock crank, rods and bearings. Neither did one of these parts break down during those years. Just doubled the oilchanges compared to stock needs.

[mro]

BIG BORE

I'm still waiting to hear how the 1311cc custom kit turns out....


mro

[GrandPrix46]

Yamaha FZ1. If the insurance weren't rediculous for me ($1400/yr, compared to $200/yr for the virago AND XS) i'd have one.