another brake line question.. XJ1100

[stereomind]

hello folks.

I'm replacing all the brake lines on the XJ with SS lines.

Here's my question to you...

There's a solid metal line that goes from the rear MC to the front union and on to the front right caliper. Its current state is questionable, and it's full of crud on the inside. I was thinking about ditching it all together and just running a long SS line all the way from the union to the back MC, bypassing the two flared fittings.

Good idea? Bad idea? What do you guys think?

Thanks!

Vlad

[trbig]

That should go to the LEFT front M/C. I think they used solid line through there because it is routed against the frame along all of that solid line. A stainless line will rub and vibrate against the frame all along there causing bare metal/rust on the frame in those places as well as wear on the brake lines.

I'd just take a can of brake cleaner and with that little red tube attached to the nozzle, spray copious amounts of cleaner through the line and re-use it.

Another option to consider though.... You could get a larger front master cylinder (I'm going to try to use my original one this way.... some say it won't run both the fronts, but with stainless lines and no flex, it may) and run a single line from it to a "Y" and have it run both front M/C's, then have the back just run the back... like bikes have been doing from the beginning of time. It would save you buying several feet of stainless line???


Tod

[snowdog51]

brakes

don't know untill you try i have zx9000
ninja master 35.00 $ then two lines from the master one to each caliper two fingers brakes

bill

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Tod,

I'm using a smaller front MC I got years ago from a wrecker, it might have come off of an XJ, or some other Yamaha with a single front caliper, but with the SS lines it does drive it quite well.

I ran the single to "Y" and down, but if I had to do it aqain, I would just run 2 long lines all the way from the calipers to the MC and use the double length banjo bolt there. Will be cheaper than adding the 3rd line for the "Y" type routing, and the amount of fluid that will be pumped thru the lines will be the same.

Stereo, if you are happy with your LINKED braking system, then like Tod said, use the solid hose on the frame. But if you want to convert them back to a more standard setup, then you may want to do a search on separating the linked brake system.
T.C.

[stereomind]

hmm, good call on the rubbing against the frame...

The owner of the bike wants to keep the brakes stock, although I brought up the idea of switching to "normal" setup.

In any case, I'll inspect the solid line and if it's recoverable, we'll stick with it.. otherwise, I might have a brake shop flare a new one.

I think the PO never changed the brake fluid... Ok, maybe once, like 15 years ago. We got the rear MC off, and the "fluid" had the consistency of cherry cobbler... nasty stuff. the sensor float thingy survived, amazingly enough.


Vlad

[Axel]

2 short rubber lines (8&quot

It might do to mention the two short rubber lines that accompany the long solid steel line on the frame . I see Stereomind's logic that a long SS line would eliminate those as well .
My M/C and parts are on the way but I am in a conundrum about the SS lines . Which way to go ...

[stereomind]

Axel,

The long solid line from the rear MC to the front has been working very good so far. The SS lines we got have a vinyl (?) coating on them, so there is no problem with rubbing. We just zip-tied the line to the frame about every 8 inches.

[Axel]

mikesxs m/c

Stereomind
Did you have any problem with the wiring for the mikesxs master cylinder ? I was thinking the new one didnt have a level sensor ?

[stereomind]

We just bypassed the sensor. I don't see why it would be necessary since the sight glass is right there in front of you. IIRC the brake light switch hooked right up.

[Axel]

level sensor

would you just hook the wires together somehow and therefore make it appear full to the diagnostic?

[stereomind]

level sensor

yeah, both the front and rear sensors are "normally closed". if one of the sensors opens, the light comes on.

So, you can just short the sensor leads in the headlight bucket. the rear one will still work.

[Axel]

winter job ?

Thanks . I have the m/c here soon but have found a place in the front hose that has worn thin on the steering lock so I have to replace the lines . So I'll have to wait until the lines come in .
I still feel OK riding locally but have cancelled any longer trips.
The linked brakes may save me here .
Our riding season is about over .

[Axel]

expensive

Cyclebrakes.com have quoted me $189 plus shipping for the 4 lines . Shipping is $45 to Canada . Sheeet .
I'm hoping to get them from an Ontario place for about $150 inc shipping .
There even was a cheaper place (about $100 all in) with no-frills lines .

[Axel]

Some parts in

Received my new m/c and mirrors today . I noticed that the brake line attaches on the front of the mikesxs.com m/c rather than the side . It also looks to have about half the reservoir capacity of the stock unit . Other than that it looks just like a Yamaha m/c . I'll bet I could re-use my stock cover that says Yamaha on it .
Since this m/c mirror perch is straight up instead of the angle of the stock one - I will replace mirrors and the clutch lever mirror perch . Should set things right again .

Before:

[Axel]

Still at it

Popular problems .See this thread

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...threadid=18850