Help on engine support/footrest bolt.

[Rhumba]

Hey all,

I'm in the process of polishing all the aluminum pieces on my bike and am now down to Handlebars and footpeg supports.

On the footpeg supports, one of the bolts that are holding them on is the rear motormount bolt that goes clear through to the other side. If I remove this bolt, will I need to support the rear of the engine with a jack or is it ok just to pull it out? (if I can). What else should I know before doing this?

Thanks ahead of time.

[John]

You will need to support the back of the engine, to keep exsess load off the other mounts. You'll need the jack to re-align the mounts and the frame when you re-assemble it.

[mro]

I've pulled that bolt without supporting the engine several times.
Did it again two days ago when I did the "extra steel" mod to my 79SF. 78 and 79 have the kick start shaft sticking thru the clutch cover and the right foot peg needs to be removed to get cover off/on.

Motor will drop down just enought that you can not just slide the bolt back in. I use a small pry bar and a rag (rag to keep from scratching anything) to pry up the motor when I put the bolt back.

Footpeg/muff brackets shine up nice and way easier than valve covers. I'm still trying to get the hang of polishing hard to get to areas.


mro

[Custom791100]

wow i can actually give some advice

well maybe not but i just pulled that bolt out i was removing the engine and the engine didnt really move just enough to not be able to slide it back in with out lifting the engine up a bit i think i just said what everyone else did but i wanted to put my 2 cents in anyways

[Rhumba]

Well thanks for the info guys, I think I'll play it safe and support the motor with a jack. Who knows, I may beable to get through with this project without breaking anything

[petejw]

Hey Rhumba,
Im in the same process albeit a little slowly
any pics and tips?

MRO
"I'm still trying to get the hang of polishing hard to get to areas."

me 2 mro,
i know ive caused more scratches using the dremel than removing
them. :-(

[TADracer]

I've had mine out seveal times before and it slides right back in, provided your front mounts are in good shape. If you are polishing your pegs then just take the bolt out and remove the pegs then slide the bolt back in while you are working.

If the bolt will not go right back in then a small pry bar or bottle jack will raise the back of the motor enough. Not really that big of a deal.

[Rhumba]

No pics yet, I'll wait till I'm done but as far as polishing goes I'm just trying to get the original finish back as my bike was sitting outside for most of it's life although it only has 4200 miles on it.

I'm going for a "shiny but not mirror" finish (unlike the side cover frames which were painted black and I stripped them and mirror polished those) like I see on photos of the bike when it was new. (brochures and such)

Tips? First of all, remove the factory clearcoat with Permatex Gasket remover in the spray can. Awesome stuff, works like magic. Spray it on, let it sit about 3 minutes, hose it off.
DO NOT GET IT ON PAINTED SURFACES! (DAMHIK) Then start with the finest sandpaper that will remove the surface imperfections, (I used 320) use Silicone Carbide paper (the black stuff) and lots of water. If you must use a dremel, try to find Scothbrite-like pads for it as it acts like 400-600 paper. Then work your way down to 400, 600, 1200, then 1500 (if you want a mirror finish, if not stop with the 400). When you switch grits, sand 90 degrees from the last grit and don't stop till you don't see lines from the previous sanding. Remember to use lots of water to keep the sandpaper from loading up with aluminum. You don't want to scratch it up again.

Then statrt using your buffing pads and rouge. I use the brown for roughing and the white for finishing. If I want a mirror I'll finish up with Blue Magic Cream polish. For a factory non mirror finish I just use the brown and be done with it. Inspect the finish for deep scratches and sanding patterns that won't buff out. If you find any, go to the next higher grit and sand again. WATER, WATER, Water! Rebuff till you get the desired results.

Then wipe it down with alchohol to remove the wax from the rouge, wax it to protect the finish and reinstall the part.

If you store your bike in the garage, you will not need to clearcoat again as Aluminum automatically and immediately forms an invisible oxide layer that protects it from the weather. The wax is to help this layer last longer. All the corrosion on my aluminum pieces were a result of the clearcoat failing and causing staining on the aluminum under it.

Hope this helps.

[mro]

My problem area is the inside part of the H on the valve cover.
Taking forever to get some scratches and what might be stress marks from casting/cooling when it was made plus my buffing wheels (6" and 8") are having a difficult time getting in there.

I've done a few other parts which came out pretty cool. One OEM sissy bar I've removed all the XSive casting marks, then misc scraches down to 1000 grit and it looks good as is. Plan to buff it some just to see how it comes out. The "bad" is it be soooo smooth that it scratches easiley. May clear coat it when done.

Spare engine side covers should be easy to do once I can do a valve cover.

Have not made up my mind if I like the polished aluminum or chrome best yet.


mro

[Rhumba]

I don't envy you with that valve cover. Mine is Black wrinkle finish with machined highlights and I was going to remove it, strip, repaint and sand the highlights but that was too much work right now.

Maybe in the future.

[petejw]

Rhumba, thanx for the tips,
thats pretty much what ive been doing
so at least im on the right track. :-)