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  • Going Home

    Forum Members,

    For those of you not familiar with my posts I traveled to Loomis, Calif.from Noxon, Mt. to work on my brothers house. While here I bought myself a garaged 79 special with low miles that needed parts and refurbishing. This is the first thing in twenty years I purchased that wasn,t a neccessity. I wanted a bike with enough power to pull me out of a jamb but compact enough to manuvere on the endless unpaved roads of Montana. I have been pretty excited about my choice. I had a local mechanic put new tires, battery, fuel lines, rebuild carb, octy, and petcocks. He also timed and scyned the carbs. I took the bike out the night I picked it up from the mechanic and it ran beautifully for about 10 miles, then started missing and farting in firsrt gear from a stop. When I pulled back up on my brothers lawn the bike died and the engine seemed awfully hot. The next day I left for salt lake city to help my nephew with a job installing industrial rack. I left the mechanic a note before I left explaining how the bike acted up. I thought maybe he should 0rder a new pilot screw to replace the short one he showed me during the rebuild. A week into my three week job at salt lake the mechanic took the bike on a forty mile run, mostly freeway, open roads. He said the bike ran perfect, he wouldn,t hesitate to ride it to Mt. After returning from S.L. I took it for a ride through traffic. I made it about 10 stop lights and the bike started missing at low rpm. It then stalled every time I slowed for a stop and finally was only running on two cylinders. If I could get the bike to about 4000 rpm all cylinders kicked in. When I checked the plugs # 1and #2 were fouled with thick black stuff from running rich. Three days later I recieved a new pilot screw, installed it and adjusted the pilot screws down to 1 1/4 as he had them adjusted higher. I also added inline fuel filters and routed the fuel lines through the octy according to clymers as the mechanic had routed them another way. I took it out that night and for the first time I made a run, say 10 miles, through traffic and it ran strongly. The next day I took it out in the heat for another run through all types of roads. This time it started missing above 4000 rpm's and finally fouled two plugs and I was on two cylinders. This happened in about ten miles. This time the plugs were coated with a black mohair sweater, my oil level increased and fuel was running out my filter. I pulled the carb bank and watched the mechanic bench test the floats with gasoline. The #4 float was stuck and fuel ran out a small port higher in the throttle tube. He removed all the float bowls, checked the valve seat assembly and said they were as in good a shape as the best he has seen. He couldn't determine why the float stuck. He reset the float height to the same 25.7 and bench tested with gas. #2 and #4 floats were stuck and he seated them with a wrap on the sides. I tested the octy as per clymers instructions. I un-capped the two front primer ports on the petcocks and turned the right one to on. Gas ran out of the left petcock primer port. So, I plugged off the primer port petcocks and vacumm port on #2 intake boot and bypassed the octy straight to the carb banks. I took it out last night and again today numerous times. Each time upon returning checking the plugs and slightly turning the pilot screws down until what I figure is the black rich fouling residue hasn't appeared on the plugs anymore.

    I'm writing this lengthy article for several reasons. One is that I am no mechanic. Everything I know or think I know about this bike I have learned from this forum. Thats remarkable in itself. Secondly, my son is flying in from spokane washington tommorrow with intentions of helping me alternate between my old van and this 1100 to get back home to Montana. It's about 1050 miles. I still have some concerns about the dependability of the bike at this time. I ask for any and all advice as regards what I have written and the following questions.

    1. For some reason I feel this bike is still running to hot. when I stop, the heat radiating from the engine feels to hot. Is it normal for the pipes to pop or clink like a fat metal windchime when I turn the bike off. I can tell you that the mechanic checked the temperature of the engine at the doughnut pipe connection after his forty mile ride with some sort of remote pointing device. He told me the temperature was 550 degrees at all cylinders plus or minus 10 degrees.

    2. I've changed the oil three times now because I'm pretty sure that once the plugs fouled and the float stuck I was dumping gas through the rings into the oil. One thing I've noticed with this bike is that if you put the recommended amount of oil in the engine, with or without filter change the oil level rises above the view window on a level surface. So it's difficult to gauge by the level. Is it correct to deduct that when a plug won't fire gas is spilling into the cylinder and entering the oil?

    3. Are the stock pipes on the 79 special designed to emitt a popping sound when letting off the throttle while coming to a stop?

    4. I see now that the best way to tell if my bike is firing ideally in all ranges is to examine the spark plug upon returning. To begin with how do I define the different parts of the plug I'm veiwing? There are the threads, the ceramic cone, the tip above the cone and the metal prong above the tip. Should the cone be entirely colored tan or gray or is it normal for part of it to still be white? Will there always be black stuff around the threads? I don't know what to look for on the tip or the prong.

    5. My route home tommorrow is interstate 5 from Sacto. to Weed Calif. From Weed right up through central Oregon on 97. 84 west along the columbia river up through pasco/kenniwick and 395 north to 90 east into spokane. It's about 150 miles to my home from spokane through cda and sandpoint Idaho. Is there anyone along this route that might give assistance if I need it, or just to see if my bike is running well? What ever the case I salute you all.

    live free, Rob Carroll Hwy 200 Noxon, Montana

  • #2
    I'm in New Jersey but can only offer you my prayers and thoughts for a great ride home.Years ago i was living in PA and had my SG under a tarp for the winter time.My Father had recently passed away that year and i felt like i was all alone in PA(my Mom and Brother live in NJ)I called my Mom and said that it was time to bring the bike home and that i would relocate to NJ the next year.It was 30 degrees outside and i drove home some 25 miles away.When i finally reached my Moms house i felt a great sense of relief knowing that the SG made it in the cold weather.I don't know what i would have done had i broke down.As far as your questions,here is some info:Spark plug
    From MopedWiki
    Jump to: navigation, search
    Contents
    [hide]

    * 1 Parts of the plug
    o 1.1 Terminal
    o 1.2 Ribs
    o 1.3 Insulator
    o 1.4 Seals
    o 1.5 Metal case
    o 1.6 Insulator tip
    o 1.7 Side electrode, or ground electrode
    o 1.8 Center electrode
    * 2 Heat range
    * 3 NGK Spark Plug Code
    * 4 Reading spark plugs

    A spark plug is an electrical device that fits into the cylinder head and ignites a compressed mixture of air and fuel by means of an electric spark. Spark plugs have an insulated center electrode which is connected by heavily insulated wire to an ignition coil circuit on the outside, forming, with a grounded terminal on the base of the plug, a spark gap inside the cylinder.
    [edit]
    Parts of the plug
    [edit]
    Terminal

    The top of the spark plug contains a terminal to connect to the ignition coil by means of a spark plug cap. The plug terminal often has a nut on a thin threaded shaft so that they can be used for two different types of connections.
    [edit]
    Ribs

    By lengthening the surface between the high voltage terminal and the grounded metal case of the spark plug, the physical shape of the ribs functions to improve the electrical insulation and prevent electrical energy from leaking along the insulator surface from the terminal to the metal case. The disrupted and longer path makes the electricity encounter more resistance along the surface of the spark plug even in the presence of dirt and moisture.
    [edit]
    Insulator

    The insulator extends from the metal case into the combustion chamber. The exact composition and length of the insulator partly determines the heat range of the plug.
    [edit]
    Seals

    As the spark plug also seals the combustion chamber of the engine when installed, the seals ensure there is no leakage from the combustion chamber. The seal is a hollow metal washer which is crushed slightly between the flat surface of the head and that of the plug, just above the threads.
    [edit]
    Metal case

    The metal case of the spark plug bears the torque of tightening the plug, serves to remove heat from the insulator and pass it on to the cylinder head, and acts as the ground for the sparks passing through the center electrode to the side electrode.
    [edit]
    Insulator tip

    The tip of the insulator surrounding the center electrode is within the combustion chamber and directly affects the spark plug performance, particularly the heat range.
    [edit]
    Side electrode, or ground electrode

    The side electrode is welded to the side of the metal case.
    [edit]
    Center electrode
    1980 XS1100 SG
    Inline fuel filters
    New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
    160 mph speedometer mod
    Kerker Exhaust
    xschop K & N air filter setup
    Dynojet Recalibration kit
    1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
    1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed

    Comment


    • #3
      1. Yes, there will be some popping of metal when you shut it off, but normal operating temps are usually @ 325-350 degrees. Your engine is running WAY too hot.. possibly because of the high float heights you mentioned and running lean? Someone more carb knowledgeable will chime in. Sometimes when you set the floats way up like that, when they drop all the way down when installed before filling with fuel to float them (Or when you run out of gas) the needle jet gets lodged sideways in the hole and can't slide back up. Sometimes a rap to the sides will straighten it out as seen.

      2. Proper oil fills should be with the bike on the center stand on level ground. If you are filling the oil to the line with it on the sidestand, you are putting in WAY too much oil.

      3. Most people get some popping on decel... but a lot of popping is again usually a sign of running lean.

      You can do what you want... but it is my suggestion to not ride the bike if it is getting that hot. Your floats are set extremely high.


      Tod
      Last edited by trbig; 06-09-2008, 04:19 PM.
      Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

      You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

      Current bikes:
      '06 Suzuki DR650
      *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
      '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
      '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
      '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
      '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
      '81 XS1100 Special
      '81 YZ250
      '80 XS850 Special
      '80 XR100
      *Crashed/Totalled, still own

      Comment


      • #4
        If you are going to try to go home

        before dialing it on, get yourself some wd-40, or carb cleaner and check for vacuum leaks. Get some seafoam and run her empty. If it's that hot you are running too lean, try putting some card board in the air box to make her run rich. Buy 8 more plugs, more oil and a filter, a plank to load the bike inside the van and a couple of tie-downs. Get yourself some electrical tape to fix the Coil pickup wires. And maybe to tape over any plug wires that are bad. Give her a spray down and follow each wire all the way down moving each wire to the head, if there is a leak you will feel it.
        I know how you feel,, you have been bitten by the XS bug... something I have never gotten over.
        Good luck.
        If I knew I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself..

        Comment


        • #5
          oldyam, thanks for the plug info

          Trbig, The mechanic tested the temperature after a 40 mile run. He told me he took the reading at the hottest possible point and didn,t know what it should be for the 1100 but said he didn,t think it was too hot. Remember now the carb problem before the float hung up was in the pilot circuit running to rich and fouling the plugs. This has thus far been aleviated by readjusting the pilot screws down to the 1- 1/4 and on some a bit less. He originally set them at 1- 1/2 to 2 turns out, he couldn,t remember. I watched him set the floats to the correct height , 25.7, which were about where he had them to begin with. All I know is this man works on all kinds of bikes all day long. Just maybe the 550 temp at the doughnut is normal. I was hoping someone else has tested at this location.

          Saddle up, I'll check for vacumm leaks but what point were you making with the coil pickup and plug wires.

          Thanks, Rob

          Comment


          • #6
            Last updated: Monday, 03-Jun-2002 18:10:45 MDT
            The Coil Pick-Up Fix

            A common point of failure on the XS Eleven is the wires that connect to the coil pick-up located under the left-hand side case-cover. These two thin wires are forced to flex as the vacuum-advance rotates the pick-up. As they wear, one or both coils will become erratic, causing random misfiring at various RPMs. The fix is relatively simple - new stronger wires are spliced in place of the old, thin wires.

            Most XS Eleven's are old enough that this little operation has already been performed as the ubiquitous original design flaw showed up rather quickly. So check those wires and see if they've been spliced (if not, do it) and if the splicing job was done well (my current bike had a very poor splicing job done). And remember to check those wires if you start to encounter erratic missing, they may be the cause.

            David Hansen

            Update:
            Leads for a multimeter make good replacements because they are meant to flex continuously. The replacement leads are quite cheap and can be picked up at RadioShed (Radio Shack) or any electronics shop. Stabilize the solder joint with electrical tape (bends less than heat-shrink) so the wire is forced to flex somewhere other than the connection. Easy fix!

            Norm Willey

            See also The Coil FAQ and the New Wires in Old Coils tip.

            [ Home | Top of Page ]
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            This site is the sh*** good luck
            If I knew I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself..

            Comment


            • #7
              To much oil

              I worked on a 80 MNS today a friend of my sons picked the bike up for 450$ LOL i missed another one he said that they bike was junk smoked bad and kept fouling plugs. first thing i did was put bike ion center stand and notice sigth glass was full i pulled the drain plug and filter housing and emptied 7.5 Qrts!!!! out of the bike . new filter and the rt amount of oil later and new plugs she just purrs it took 50 miles lol to get all the oil to burn out of the exhaust. I then rode thebike to where he bought it and the PO almsot cried so all and all a good day.


              John
              79 XS1100SF 750 FD,Galfer Brake lines,ebc brake pads,Cross Drilled Rotors,TKat fork brace,bead blasted wheels repainted and polished
              80 XS1100 S Project gonna be a hot rod
              06 CBR1000RR sold!!!!!
              2000 Concours
              84 Kawi KLR600
              79 Yam XT500 Ouch it kicks back
              79 XR250
              Why is it that the smallest part can fly to the farthest part of the shop?
              John

              Comment


              • #8
                Hey Rob,

                Okay, the 79 Special uses the 25.7mm float height, so it's not neceassarily too high/lean, but could be somewhat lean!

                The Exhaust pipes do run pretty warm/hot, a few folks have posted the temps they found on their header pipes, 81XSProject for one. Trbig stated the 325-350 range. I don't have a infrared/laser thermal thermometer/gauge so I don't know what mine run, but down at the "doughnut" pipe connector I would think that it would read quite warm/hot there compared to measuring the actual ENGINE, not the exhaust.

                The pipes will crack/pop when you turn it off, the metal shrinks after expanding from the heat generated. As for popping on Decel, the stock bike usually didn't do that much at all, but can occur when you fully close the throttle on decel, and you have leaned out the Pilot Circuit/idle mix screws which may have contributed to the leaner condition on DECEL.

                Again, having someone else work on it, you can't always tell what parts are/were used, some carb kits caused problems with incorrect pilot jets causing too rich condition in the pilot/idle circuit. But it could also be too lean when on the mains.

                You've been reading the plugs, but you're only reading the pilot circuit affect. You say they are slowly cleaning up, but getting them too lean will cause it to run much hotter, and possibly could burn a hole in your pistons? You would need to do a proper throttle chop with NEW PLUGS to see how it's running during the cruise rpm range. The plugs don't necessarily color like they used to with these newer cleaner fuels. You should see a thin film of black around the base of the plug...the end of the threaded part, but the electrode should be fairly clear. There is a tech tip with photos and descriptions..CLICK HERE to view it!

                There are many Xsives all along California, as well as Oregon and Wash., check the Member's Forum, searching for the "members: California" thread as well as the other states.

                Finally, at the XS East rally, a member was able to fit his bike into his VAN by dropping/lowering the handlebars....JAT!?
                T.C.
                T. C. Gresham
                81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                History shows again and again,
                How nature points out the folly of men!

                Comment


                • #9
                  You the Man

                  TOP CAT.
                  If I knew I was going to live this long, I would have taken better care of myself..

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hey Rob ,
                    You do know there is a bolt directly behind the oil filter housing right?Because ,if you dont take out that bolt , it wont drain all the old oil out.My first oil change on mine I couldnt understand why it didn't take much oil to fill it back up.Then I read a post on here
                    that said find that other bolt not just the bolt in the filter housing.
                    I did and it took over 3.5 qts. by fully draing from both bolts.
                    So if you you fill it with 3.7qts. and dont drain both filter and drain bolt it will definitely be way overfull.
                    80 SG XS1100
                    14 Victory Cross Country

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Saddleup, Ill check the coil pickups as soon as I finish this post. You explained the possibilities and fix quite well. I tended to discount the wiring as every part of this bike is in remarkable shape.

                      Paintman, It's always good to hear good news when your in the emergency room

                      Topcat, Thanks for color photos of the plug conditions. My plugs are looking close to the normal plug. Except some of the ceramic insulators have not colored all the way around (parts are still white) I was guessing but I thought maybe it's because they are still so new. As I pointed out I was with the mechanic when he rechecked the float operation. He showed me the little numbers that are stamped on the seats and jets, and pilot screws. All the numbers were stock as per clymers. He didn,t break the whole carb down this time but he told me all the parts were stock.

                      I realize I haven,t run the plug test I read about where you examine them at the transitions. I figured there was nothing I could adjust for the higher circuits. I had my hands full trying to figure out how to keep them from fouling at the pilot circuit rpm,s. I.m not kidding you, the fouled plugs were black and fuzzy and smelled like gas. Even in that condition if I let them sit long enough they would fire again: then clean themselfs off when I reached 3500 rpm+ circuit. So I finally reseated all the pilot screws and backed them out 1-1/4 turns. Now I must admit I was scared as hell I would break off a tip when I seated them, so I was really light on the seat. Anyway I ended up turning #1 down a quarter more and #2 a bit over a quater down. I just wanted that fuzzy black stuff to go away. I can tell you this. The bike is a little harder to start and reach an idle it can maintain on it's own.

                      Incidentally my van is so full of my carpentry tools I can barely see out. I,d have to buy a trailer and hitch and I don,t know for sure but this old van (a little embarassed to say) oh what the hell, 1990 plymouth voyager, 3 liter on lucas oil treatment life support, might go south. I thought you had to pull trailers with trucks. Anyway if you think I can get away with it I could back the pilots up abit.

                      Thanks a million fellows, Rob

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Tarzan, I drained all the oil again today. The filter and the drain plug. I measured the drained oil to be sure and it had 20 more 0nces then the 3.7 it requires. I put 3.7 back in and its above my veiw window. The bike was always checked on the center stand. I even went so far as to put a two foot level vertically on the back tire to make sure the bike was level.

                        Topcat, I just remebered something. The sync port caps are in perfect shape. Where all might you have a vacumm leak?

                        Still working, Rob

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Possible extra oil=gas

                          HI Rob, it is possible that some gas is going into your oil and producing the extra 20 ounces. I would recommend, even though you checked the petcock system, to turn the petcock to off right before turning off the engine after a ride. That way no gas can leak through. Then turn petcock to Run, to start up. If some gas is leaking through the system the drained oil should feel and smell different, slightly thinner. Also can just pull off the gas line from the petcock when in off position to see if gas leaks out, and also in the run position to see if the vacuum is working.....many of us have had leaking octopus' and threw them away and used straight fuel lines to the carb. Then just turn petcock on and off for riding. Anyway, try that and it could be the answer.....Good luck, Mike in San Diego
                          mike
                          1982 xj1100 maxim
                          1981 venture bagger
                          1999 Kawi Nomad 1500 greenie
                          1959 wife

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Rob,
                            One more thought, just to make you go HMMMM
                            Did you check the middle and final drive oil? I would try and check them, and change them if you do not know how long it's been. The middle drive has a 17mm head, and is very close to the oil drain plug. It's about two inches farther back, and sits flat on the bottom of the bike, not at a slant like the oil drain plug. DO take the fill plugs off BEFORE draining!! If you have one that is stuck, you can let it go for a little while as you ride the bike to a place you can repair it.
                            You CAN pull a small trailor with your van. The only thing I would do is put a transmission oil cooler on it, and THEN put on a hitch. The transmission IS the weak point on those vans. DAMHIK
                            Ray Matteis
                            KE6NHG
                            XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                            XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Going Home

                              If it were me, I would not try to ride it a thousand miles with these kinds of problems. I don't know if you'll have enough time to sort them all out or not. Would it cost the same to have it shipped than it does to have it worked on right now? You could always have it delivered to you and then use the forum to help you get it going...

                              The carb floats can be checked and inspected before mounting back on the bike. You can force air through the fuel inlet tubes until you turn the carb bank upside down, which causes the fuel needle valves to close. Has your mechanic checked to see that they are sealing properly?

                              What about this..... perhaps you could pay a fellow XSive to ship you a set of pre-configured carbs that you could mostly just bolt on and go. Bike's elevation can be determined (2,185ft?) . We know what bike you have. Looks like you have a stock exhaust. I'd think a set of carbs could be configured to get you going, then sent out to you.

                              The problems you have can lead you to chase your tail here and there. Sometimes one problem, when fixed, will lead you to another. You need to eliminate what you know is not the problem. The only way I know how to do that is to set everything to factory recommended specs.

                              If you know your carbs are good but you still have problems, you can look at pickup coil problems, ignition coil problems, spark plug lead wire problems, TCI ignition module problems, etc. But fuel and spark problems can seem like the same thing sometimes.

                              I will also say that 550 seems way too hot. I have an aftermarket 4-1 exhaust, which "clicks" after I ride the bike when it is cooling down. If your bike is not getting enough fuel, if fuel jets are too small, if jet needle clip position is wrong, anr/or if float height is too lean, you could cause a lean condition. I would simply make sure the carbs have the recommended stock jets, stock jet needle clip position, stock float height, and set idle mixture screws at recommended number of turns out. Set idle speed to 1100rpm. Then go from there.

                              Rich vs Lean - If your bike is running too rich, you'll have fuel leaks, very rich-smelling exhaust, fuel running backwards into the airbox, black carbon-fouled plugs, poor fuel mileage, and even poor power. The bike may stutter/miss. If your bike is running too lean, you can also have stuttering, sputtering, and missing, which may lead to the confusion as to whether the bike is running too rich or too lean. But if it is lean, you'll have engine overheating, super hot plugs - maybe melted or vaporized, poor power, etc. How do you tell?

                              The way to tell is to ride the bike until it is fully warmed up. While running, stop the bike on the side of the road and kill the engine during idle. Remove the spark plug. Look at the color of the plug (we call this a plug chop, or just checking spark plug color). Here is a pictorial of what you are looking for:
                              http://www.dansmc.com/Spark_Plugs/Sp...s_catalog.html
                              http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...q/faqread2.asp






                              Whether it is black, white, brown, or gray tells you whether you are too rich or too lean. Since you are doing this while the bike is idling, this will tell you whether or not you are rich or lean on the carb's idle circuit (fuel mix screws, pilot jet size, float height). If the plugs are black, then your idle circuit is too rich. If the plugs are white, the idle circuit is too lean. If you see a tan or brown color, you are probably about right. All 4 plugs need to be about the same color too. If they are not, you have other problems, such as poor carb synch, different compression across the cylinders (maybe 1 cylinder has lower compression for example), inconsistent spark, etc.

                              You also need to do this plug chop while running the bike mid-way through the throttle range to figure out if your mid-range (jet needle, main jet) circuit is too rich or too lean.

                              And you also need to do this with the bike at full throttle to test whether or not you have the proper main jet. You do these tests in order from full throttle plug chop, mid range plug chop, idle plug chop.

                              Plug color needs to be consistent across the plugs, even if all plugs are too lean or rich. If plug color is consistent, you can easily fix the problems. If you have random coloring on plugs, it will take more effort to solve.

                              Also keep in mind that if you blacken a plug but continue to use that plug for testing, it may not clean itself up. You need to use fresh plugs before you do these tests.

                              Overall, your problem is a bit confusing because the temps (550) and engine dying, sputtering, etc. make it sound like you are way too lean, but stuck floats and black plugs make it sound like you are running way too rich. That's why checking the plug color is your ticket.
                              1985 Yamaha VMX12n "Max X" - Stock
                              1982 Honda XL500r "Big Red" - Stump Puller. Unknown mileage.
                              1974-78 Honda XL350 hybrid - The thumper that revs. Unknown miles.
                              1974 Suzuki TC/TS125 hybrid. Trials with trail gear. Invaluable. Unknown miles.
                              1971 Honda CL350. For Dad. Newtronic Electronic Ign. Reliable. Unknown miles.

                              Formerly:
                              1982 XS650
                              1980 XS1100g
                              1979 XS1100sf
                              1978 XS1100e donor

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