Didn't see a tech tip on this...

[AustinPhoenix]

Hey Guru's and wrenchers...

I'm replacing my valve cover gasket this week to stop a leak and while I have the tank removed and cover off, what else should I do while there? This is my first XS, so forgive me for a stupid question.

I'm assuming I should try to find a way to check the valves (I don't have the tool), and check/replace the cam chain. Is there anything else that I should look for or check? And aside from the tech tip on the valve adjustment tool, is there any other option for the adjustment/removal?

Thanks!

PS. I have both a leak at the valve cover and cam chain tensioner. The bulk gasket material from AutoZone is $10 so I'm picking that up to TRY and stop the leak coming from behind the cam chain tensioner. But I think we all know how those cam chain tensioners can be.

[webbcraft2150]

You should replace the cam plugs in the valve cover gasket also. Those are the little half moon rubber do-hickies that slide into the end of the valve cover. They are OEM more than likely and have a tendancy to shrink up and leak. If they are not leaking now, they will be soon after you put a new valve cover gasket on and you hafta do it all again. If you pull the cam tensioner, read and follow label directions very carefully of the R&R process. One slip up and your screwed!!!!!!!!

[bikerphil]

some tips

As for the valve cover leak, those half-moon cam plugs on the r/s will shrink over time and leak. Pop 'em out and put a thin layer of RTV around them. Cam chain life can be determined by how far the adjuster is in. If it's at the end of it's travel, replace the cam chain. If it's close to the end of it's travel, use very thin gasket material or just ATV when replacing the adjuster gasket. This'll give you a little more travel. Don't forget to check the o-ring on the adjuster lock down screw. It can leak from there too. You can check your valve clearances with just a feeler gauge. The special tool is for removing/inserting the shim pads. The other option for removing the pads is removing the cams. VERY IMPORTANT: before cranking engine, cam position dots and timing marks must line up EXACTLY or you're gonna have big problems (bent valves). HTH

[AustinPhoenix]

Cam removal...

So I'm thinking about switching the cams from my 79 into my 80 anyways. Since I don't have the valve tool, I suppose this would be an opportune time to kill the two birds with one wrench. hahaha...ha....hmmm....not very funny was it.

Anyways...I haven't really looked at the manual to see how difficult it would be...but maybe that will be the best option. I already ordered the cam plugs. Thanks for the tip! Also thanks for the gasket tip with the tensioner!

[DiverRay]

When you replace or remove the cams,
DO THE FOLLOWING!!!
1. Set engine to TDC with the cam dots lined up on the cap. DO NOT set to the "C" mark, as that is JUST for the cam chain adjustment.
2. Remove and replace cams per instructions from the manual. Do NOT replace any shims at this time, as you will need to check clearance with the "new" cam.
3. put cams back on, put tensioner back in, loosen, then lock. Pull tensioner, release and allow spring to push it out about 3 mm. Reinstall tensioner, but DO NOT try to tighten all the way down.
4. rotate crank SLOWLY while looking at cams. BE SURE cams are turning with crank! IF not, return to step 3 and try again.
5. Rotate crank to "C" position, tighten down tensioner, release and then re-tighten the hold down. rotate crank at least two revolutions to verify proper operation.

[AustinPhoenix]

Thanks!

Thanks for the words of caution and guidance, Ray. I will follow your instructions.