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fitting rear wheel

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  • fitting rear wheel

    After yet another incidence of a sticking rear caliper I have cleaned up caliper and splooge hole (it was fine - did it last time) and put a new set of pads in for good measure.

    Only trouble is, I can't seem to get the calipre - and its fat new pads over the disc to reinstall everything.

    Cmon guys, what is the trick here? I doubt violence will pay any dividends and I am nervous about prying screwdrivers around new pad surfaces. What's the go here?

    Thanks. Scott J
    Scotty J
    Burpengary, Q Australia
    XS1100E 1978
    XJ900N 1985
    Ariel 350 Red Hunter 1949

  • #2
    pad install

    Did you compress the caliper piston all the way in with a c-clamp?
    2H7 (79) owned since '89
    3H3 owned since '06

    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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    • #3
      Pry away, scotto, but with a little bit of caution of course. The friction surface should be fairly robust, and you do need to get the pistons well back into the bores to be able to slide it all back together. It will take some effort, as you are trying to displace a fair bit of fluid back through the spooge hole into the reservoir.
      Ken Talbot

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      • #4
        fitting rear wheel

        I have no fluid in system at all at present. So will take caliper apart to make sure piston is absolutely at bottom. Then I will take it all to wiggle land and hope it fits.
        Scotty J
        Burpengary, Q Australia
        XS1100E 1978
        XJ900N 1985
        Ariel 350 Red Hunter 1949

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        • #5
          Maybe your piston is seized in the caliper, and that was causing the dragging brake. If not seized, the c clamp method mentioned earlier will work.
          Leo
          1980 XS1100 Special
          1197cc Wiseco kit
          1978 cams
          4 into 1 Jardine with glasspack
          Keihin CR33 mm carbs
          K&N individual pod filters
          TKAT fork brace

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          • #6
            caliper rebuild

            Caliper rebuild kits are cheap. Might as well do it and save yourself some future headache.

            Just to kick the dead horse again...the c-clamp should do the trick. If you've ever done the brakes on a car, this is MUCH easier.
            1980 XS11g Standard - "Ash"
            4 to 2 Exhaust
            K&N Pod Filters
            Fuel Filters
            Inline shut off valves
            Slotted Rotors
            My heart and soul

            Soon to have stainless lines, xs750 FD, lightened rotors, and HID headlight

            1979 Special Project Bike
            Non-gasoline conversion

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