carb float grab bag

[jimmy boots]

here's what came out of my 79 standard's carbs:



here's a close-up of the dents on #3 (metal) and #4 (plastic):




the one marked "(old)" was given to me by a shop i had do a rebuild.... i think it looks better than these two above what do you guys think?

okay. what am i putting back into the bike?

on a separate note...do i need to file down a bit first before i use JB weld to fix a float post, or can i use a real thin layer and expect it to be level enough...?

p.p.s. i have yet to find a rubber o-ring in my carbs (haven't taken the idle screws off). is that okay?

thanks y'all

[psycoreefer]

I can answer the O-ring question.. no problems, the 79 carbs have no o-rings in them any where. Later model carbs have O-rings on the mixture screws and float valves.

I can't see your picture (I'm at work) but if your floats don't match it will be harder to tune your carbs. You can go to all new plastic ones from Mikesxs. I did and they work great.

[jimmy boots]

which holds up better, the plastic floats or the metal ones?

anyone want to chime in on how to get a nice level JB repair on this here float post? i swear i was ever so ginger with the thing & it still snapped

[AlanB]

Hi JimmyB,

I have managed to avoid breaking any myself, but I have done so many carbs that I have encountered Some "History" in some of the bikes I have worked on.......I don't usually glue 'em.......

I generally drill a couple of tiny holes through the post, above and below the break, and join it back together by tying a loop of stainless lock-wire through it all.

No layer of glue to upset the alignment, fuel doesn't hurt it, and 'cos I have the wire here, it is free!

Sorry I don't have a pic of a repair.

AlanB

[81xsproject]

The plastic hold up better and can be adjusted to the same float height. If you are interested in a complete set, I have a set of plastics I am going to be selling on ebay soon. Great shape, $35 for the set of four. PM me if you (or anyone else is interested).

[jimmy boots]

I had to go to battle with one of my float pins (the one that got stuck in my broken float post) and so now I need to get a new one - would it be a good idea to find a set of four that aren't enlarged on the 'head' end? Prometheus578 said in an old thread:

Rough measurements: Float bowl recess: 30.35 mm. Pin length: 27.5mm. (Difference of 2.85mm between the recess and the pin) Freeplay on each side of the pin would be 1.43mm. Even if the head of the pin moved out 1.43mm... the other end would still be 2/3s in the tower. No Probs.

Could I perhaps get nice loose ones of the same length and save myself future headaches? Not to mention stuck bowls seems to be a pretty common problem, maybe this would help there too? Lemme know if this is a terrible idea
- JimmyB

[81xsproject]

I chuck mine in the end of a dremel and then file off the head and shoulder of the pins. This keeps them from getting stuck in the future.

[81xsproject]

Sorry, yes, you could make your own. However, it seems like a lot more work than turning the ones you have down, and the wire would need to be pretty close in size.

[DiverRay]

You can try and find a "finishing nail" the same diameter, and use it for a pin. Get a long nail close to the correct diameter, turn down to correct size in a drill press or dremel, then cut to length. JAT

[skids]

Instead of using "interferrance fit" Kawasaki makes the pin long enough so that the sides of the bowl keep it from sliding out. (At least the one I had apart.

Originally posted by DiverRay
You can try and find a "finishing nail" the same diameter, and use it for a pin. Get a long nail close to the correct diameter, turn down to correct size in a drill press or dremel, then cut to length. JAT