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  • More Maneuverable (Nimble)?

    Now, I know our bikes will never have the twinkle-toes moves of the crotch rocket riders, but is there a way to make them a little more maneuverable for stuff like obstacle courses (I'm thinking the advanced MSF rider's course)?

    To be honest, I'm not sure what makes a bike more or less nimble. Is it a factor of engine size/bike length or what?
    "I said I never had much use for [a pistol], never said I didn't know how to use one."

    '82 Maxim XJ1100J (Maroon) - "Organ Donor" - Parts bike

    '82 Maxim XJ1100J (Black) - "Outrider" - Dynojet Stage 1 kit, Kerker 4-1 exhaust, AGM battery, Mikes XS coils, small inline fuel filters, Dunlopp Elite-3 tires

    '06 Star Warrior (Custom Gadsden Flag Theme) - "ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ" - Sissy bar w/ luggage rack, 4" risers, braided stainless steel cables and brake line; Mods on deck: new exhaust, new seat

  • #2
    A fork brace will help, and making sure you've got enough air in the tires. SWMBO and I did the advanced MSF course a while back on Tsunami and Purple Reign, complete with the slow speed manouevering, and we did okay.
    Ken Talbot

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    • #3
      You know,I've been riding bikes for about 25 years.Dirt and street.A friend of mine took a riding course about a month ago and he was telling me that the instructor asked him if you push on the right handle bar ,what will happen.My friend replied the bike will turn left.The instructor said NO! the bike will plow right.
      My buddy says yea right.Well I thought as my friend did.Guess I never thought much about it.So my friend tried it and claimed it was true.So I tried it and sure enough if you push on the right bar it dives right,push on the left and it goes left.
      Well before this I felt like my bike was tough to maneuver.Now I have learned to use it on a regular basis and my bike seems way more managable.One caveat however.It only takes a little pressure to get it to move.If you shove too hard it will dive hard and no doubt ,throw a guy off.But now it is easy to manever pretty easy.These bikes are heavy though so you arent going to go throwing them around like an enduro.
      So, I don't know if this will help you,but it helped me.
      80 SG XS1100
      14 Victory Cross Country

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      • #4
        Yeah, one of the first things we were taught in the course is counter-steering, but only at speeds over like 10mph (I think). Seemed logical to me.

        I'm pretty sure my XJ has a fork-brace built in (standard on XJ's?). I also keep my tires filled pretty well (I think I filled them to the high-speed pressure suggestion - 32psi front, 36psi rear). I don't usually ride with any passengers, and I'm only about 175, but I do go fast (about speed limit + 5mph), so this sounded like the proper pressure for me (am I wrong?).
        "I said I never had much use for [a pistol], never said I didn't know how to use one."

        '82 Maxim XJ1100J (Maroon) - "Organ Donor" - Parts bike

        '82 Maxim XJ1100J (Black) - "Outrider" - Dynojet Stage 1 kit, Kerker 4-1 exhaust, AGM battery, Mikes XS coils, small inline fuel filters, Dunlopp Elite-3 tires

        '06 Star Warrior (Custom Gadsden Flag Theme) - "ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ" - Sissy bar w/ luggage rack, 4" risers, braided stainless steel cables and brake line; Mods on deck: new exhaust, new seat

        Comment


        • #5
          The fork brace on the XJ may NOT be up to "modern" standards. Check on a TKat fork brace for the XJ. The tire pressure sounds a little low to me. I ride mine solo most of the time, and run 36 front and 38 rear.
          Ray Matteis
          KE6NHG
          XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
          XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

          Comment


          • #6
            After you get to trusting things on the bike a bit more, and IF you start pushing it more, you will notice that as you get down around peg scraping on turns, that if there are ANY bumps in the road, the XJ tends to feel like it almost has a hinge in it somewhere or a spring of some sort. What is happening is the front forks are bending. The XJ's built in brace does make it somewhat better over the stock XS... but it is a far cry from being fixed.

            That being said, the fork brace shouldn't have much effect at all at low speeds. You don't create the G forces needed to bend the forks much. A big factor in the nimbleness is going to be your power to weight ratio which you can't change a whole lot.

            When you get more familiar with your bike, you'll be able to move it around better. I pull up to stop signs and red lights and do stop and go's all the time without putting my feet down. Just remember that in slow situations... the rear brake is your best friend.

            Tod
            Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

            You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

            Current bikes:
            '06 Suzuki DR650
            *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
            '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
            '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
            '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
            '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
            '81 XS1100 Special
            '81 YZ250
            '80 XS850 Special
            '80 XR100
            *Crashed/Totalled, still own

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            • #7
              make them a little more maneuverable for stuff like obstacle courses
              Other than the fork brace, progressive springs and shocks (for higher speeds, would need to get radical like xschop

              Much easier to improve your skills , which means practice regularly. Try to learn the machanical limits of your bike without getting hurt (easier said than done ) My G suffered (as did I) as I kept pushing it. Several sets of crash and handle bars, numerous turn signals, couple sets of engine covers and and a FUBARed exhaust later I came to the conclusion that I'm not speed racer and the XS be no formula one. (besides I was starting to run out of standard parts )

              How far around a slow turn can you keep the handle bars locked.
              How slow can you go in a straight line without weaving.
              How far does it take you to straighten up and emergency stop from a radical turn. ( I almost high sided doing that in a parking lot going only 25mph) My experiences locking up the rear tire at different speeds is not recommended. Wait till your going around a turn with your butt swung over and leaning on the bars and hit a pot hole. Bring spare undies.....


              mro

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              • #8
                I lowered my triple-tree/raised my tubes to 15mm (measured from the top of the triple-tree to the top of the tube) and there was a very noticeable improvement in handling. My $.05 worth (had to raise the price, what with the cost of gas and everything )
                I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                Comment


                • #9
                  Or you could do as I did, and hit a car head on at 30 mph , does a great job of bendind the steering neck back a few degrees, reduced my trail from 6" to 2.5" ! And adding 4" over length upper tubes added even more twitchyness!!
                  T.C.
                  T. C. Gresham
                  81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                  79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                  History shows again and again,
                  How nature points out the folly of men!

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