first post, carbs

[Bamper]

I just bought my xs 1100 and it took me almost all day to find it was the SF model because mine still had the fairings and most of the pictures where without them. But the carb where sitting on the seat when i bought it and i put them on and there are 2 nipples on each petcock and 2 inbetween the number 3 and 4 so i assume they go there and same for the otherside but with them being inbetween the number 1 and 2. turned the gas on and i get gas coming out of the mumber 1 carb. Could this be the gasket in the float bowl im reading about on other posts? But other then that it needs to be rewired but i found a diagram finally. I can get it to turn over and it has spark if i jump solinoide(spelt wrong). It's gonna ned all new locks and ignition switch because i seemed to have missed placed the key to that my yamaha 650 and my kawi on/off road dirtbike. Was this bike worth the 50 bucks i paid for it? I think so. Any help would be greatly apriciated.

[dpotter58]

There are numbers under the ignition switch. Take them to a Yamaha dealer and they can make you a key.. Don't ask me how I know that.

[Bamper]

thanks, i made it turn with a flathead but hopfully a key will still work.

[mro]

50 bucks

My kinda XS !!!

On the carbs, lower ports fuel, upper set are vents and if you have the stock air box will connect there.

The pet cocks, (on a special) have on, off, prime and reserve. Both ports are for fuel but one for prime.
Check here >>> http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...=&threadid=713

If your getting gas leaking out a carb, most likely will need to dissasemble and clean. May need new float needle/seats too, altho could just be a float hanging up.


mro
BTW, have you posted any picks of your SF?

[fredintoon]

Hi Bamper,
hit the search button and look for "octopus valve" that will tell you about how those two spigots per tap are supposed to work.
The factory stock set-up has either 8 or 9 different hoses in it. Without you see the diagram you wouldn't effin' believe it.
That's why most Special owners have junked the octopus and run a simpler system. All you have to do is remember to turn the fuel off when you stop just like dad used to do.
But if you have somehow succeeded in piping fuel to the Tee between #1 & #2 carbs and to the other Tee between #3 & #4 carbs you will have fuel being delivered to all 4 carbs. But if fuel is pouring out of #1 carb (or out of any of them) either it's float is sunk or it's needle & seat are not sealing and that you gotta fix.

[Bamper]

could the fuel comeing from the number 1 be from having the fuel hooked to it?
Also I have the octopus diagram thing open but it does show what tubes go to the carb. So the tube closest to the upper-left hand corners goes to the spout inbetween the number 1 and 2 and the hose closest to the lower right geos to spout inbetween the number 3 and 4? and the vacume hose goes right off teh crank vacume line?

I am also going to get air cones/pods so I would NOT use the top nipple on the carbs?

[fredintoon]

Hi Bamper,
"could the fuel comeing from the number 1 be from having the fuel hooked to it?"
Well, Duh. Fuel can only leak out if it's being fed in, eh?
A PO had already binned my XS11SG's octopus before I got the bike. You got the diagram AND the octopus so you have a better understanding of the set-up than me.
" I am also going to get air cones/pods so I would NOT use the top nipple on the carbs? "
If you are junking the stock airbox in favor of pods there's hoses connected to it that you gotta make alternative arrangements for. WTF "top nipple" you talking about BTW?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Bamper,

Welcome and congrats on a great find for $50.00 !!

However, you need to do some basic research before JUMPING IN on trying to work on this bike!

There is a ton of info in the various tech tips on this site, just scroll down from the MAIN FORUM PAGE, not just the left hand links because there are several newer tips that are NOT linked from the left hand column!

Okay, the PO had the carbs sitting on the seat! Did you take them and take them apart and CLEAN THEM before attempting to put them on the bike...I assume not! The carbs are one of the 2 most critical and common problems that folks have with getting these machines to run....electrical is usually the other!

IF the carbs are not cleaned, adjusted, and properly synchronized, then they will not work right or together and you will have lackluster if ANY performance from the XS11!

There are several sets of hoses, both fuel and vacuum, as well as just vent that need to be set up. As has been told already, the lower "T" fittings between the carbs are for FUEL, and can be connected to the petcocks. The UPPER "T"'s are vents, and NEED to be vented, don't just cap, but put hoses on them, "T" them together and them put a filter on the end of the hose, and mount it up near the tank/frame so it can breath.

The petcocks have 2 outlets, you can either "Y" them...I say that instead of "T" because it puts less of a bend on the 2 hoses from the spouts using a "Y" fitting....found at your local auto store. This is IF you have lost or removed the Octopus valve assembly....a PITA IMHO as well as many others here....and so you can then run the end of the "Y" across to the other/opposite pair of carbs to reduce bending the hoses!!

There is a metal vacuum port on the #2 carb BODY, that connects to the vacuum line coming from the LEFT SIDE timing cover that goes to the vacuum advance unit. The ports on the intake boots can then be capped off....IF you don't have the Octy, otherwise connect the vacuum hose from the OCTY to one of the boot synch ports....just NOT to the #2 carb BODY port!!!!

With Indy filters, you'll have a large crankcase vent hose, and you can either route it down between the frame/swingarm, or you can put a nice breather filter to keep bugs and moisture from getting in there!

So..please take some time and read thru the tech tips, they will save you some grief and possibly some $$ by learning NOT to break something!!
T.C.

PS, the fuel leak from #1 could have just been due to the lines being hooked up to the upper vent "T"s, but you can also have damaged float needle seats, sticking floats, sinking floats, etc.!!

[planedick]

Sounds like

you have a few lines going to the wrong places. Bottom fitting between 1 & 2 and likewise between 3 & 4 is gas inlet and upper fittings are vents. Outside fitting on tank valve is for on and reserve. Inside fitting is for prime and can just be blocked when you remove the octopus valve.

[Bamper]

He dropped off a jug with some parts in it yesterday and it had the vacum octopus thing i guess ill be tackling that later. I took the carbs apart through one of the walkthroughs on this site and everything seemed fine. but looks like ill be needing a new set of needles very soon. Also on the 1 and 2 the floats where concaved instead of bubleing out. But I chekced to see if they leaked and no leaks. Thanks for all the help might be able to hear it fart this weekend. been reading posts on this fourm about it for the past 3 days.

Ok i noticed something else also if you are sitting on the bike the left cover (think it might be stator but that could be other side) it cracked and has a screw just starting to poke out Directly in the center so hopfuly it didn't come off the crank and mess up anything. I'll be taking that off tonight, does anyone know what is under it?
No havn't posted any pics yet still kinda ratty looking, gotta get a brass wire brush for the fenders. Im gonna have to paint them most likley.
Another thing what is all this i hear about 2nd gear slipping out? at about what mileage does it occur and my bike has 19.9k miles should i do anything to it to prevent this from happening?

[bikerphil]

left cover

The ignition pick-up coils and the timing plate are under the LS cover. Make sure that hex head bolt under there is tight and plate is seated correctly before trying to crank the bike.

As for 2nd gear issue, there is no preventative maintenance to avoid the slip without taking the tranny gears out. Hard to tell when/if it's gonna fail. Tranny can be worked on without splitting the cases.

[CarolynS]

Congratulations...

Where in Maine are you? I'm in Massachusetts.
First thing you should do-IMHO-is go and order the Clymer's manual for the bike. It will be invaluable to you once you start making headway into resurrecting the machine. I paid $30 for mine and it was money well spent. Go to Yamaha, Borders, or online stores. Whatever, just get one...
According to alot of the expert opinions here, get rid of the octopus and change it over. Luckily both of my bikes were already done, because that thing sure sounds like it's a hassle. Yikes!
A manual and do some specific searches here and you should be good to go in no time.
And we don't care if it is ratty, everyone loves pictures! Especially when you paid $50 for it-that's one heck of a good deal no matter how many blemishes it has.
Good luck, and have fun with it.

[fredintoon]

A preventative procedure

Hi Bamper,
there is no preventative maintenence to stop your 2nd gear from wearing so it jumps out but if it don't already jump out there is a simple procedure that works to keep it from doing so for much longer. DON'T stand the bike on it's back wheel in 2nd just because it can.

[mro]

Personally I like octopussy

Parts be available for the diaphragm which is the part that can cause problems by either not allowing fuel to flow properly or not shutting the fuel off when engine is not running. Anytime I shut down a special and plan to not start it up again for awhile I turn the petcocks to “off” and rely on the float needles and the octi-diaphragm to keep the fuel from flowing out the carbs or into the engine. Should the diaphragm FAIL and the float needles leak...especially with the petcock “ON” (or the petcock leaks too) you will wind up with a puddle of fuel beneath your ride as well as fuel in the crankcase. Getting older and prone to CRS now and then I forget to turn the petcocks off. Thank you carbs for being in good shape and the octopus working just fine.

On the other tentacle...
I do agree that it could have been designed better and eliminating it is easy to do and has a less cluttered look. Removing the octi also makes installing in-line fuel filters easier in case you have any fuel tank issues (rust etc.) If you go this route would add checking that the petcocks work properly to regularly maintenance. (should be checking em anyway now and then)


mro
PS...
There be a slight mistake in the description on the octopus test/function in the link I posted.

Quote
With the petcocks in the ON or RES position (engine not running), gas should not flow from the fuel pipes (A) when thy are removed from petcocks.
End quote

Should read, “gas should not flow from the carburetors fuel pipes when removed from carburetors”

[Bamper]

great the bolt going into it was out and the last few treads are stripped. I hope i have a tap to fit it. That would be why it would onl backfire while trying to start >.> took teh carbs off and cleaned them about 8 times. So once i get this screwed in how do I time it?