In the carb cleaning post on this forum it tells you to take a nail or phillips screwdriver and remove the pin that holds the float in place after removing the float bowl.I'm curious what else can i try to remove that pin?I cant seem to get it to come out and don't want to break the posts that hold it into place.Also is the body available if the posts break?
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Thank You-But can you purchase the body if you break the posts? I didn't but was curious.1980 XS1100 SG
Inline fuel filters
New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
160 mph speedometer mod
Kerker Exhaust
xschop K & N air filter setup
Dynojet Recalibration kit
1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed
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Someone had a NOS set of carbs on ebay last week... First set of new carbs for these bikes that I have ever seen!
When I finally got all my pins out. I ground the heads and the "swollen" shoulder section off so they could be removed easily by hand. I've never understood why they had to press that pin in there like that. Now they just slide out. The float bowl will not allow them to slide out once the bowls are on.Tim Ripley - Gaithersburg, MD
1981 XS1100 Special "Spoiled Rotten" Just sold - currently bikeless!!
23mm float height
120 main jets
42.5 pilot jets
drilled stock airbox with K&N
Jardine 4 to 1 Exhaust
spade fusebox
1st and 2nd gear fix
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I use a little punch and a small hammer to get them out. A little WD-40 never hurts either. When I put them back I never seat them all the way. I just tap the pin in 'till it's flush with the other side.I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.
'79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
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Someone on here recommended diagonal cutters, you know those little pliers for sniping wire and wire ties and stuff. Anyways you place the flat side against the post and when you squeeze the sharp edge goes right under the head of the pin and pops it out. I tried it and it worked great for me. Like the ones on the far left in this picture. Good luck...1979 xs1100 Special -
Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power
Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.
Originally posted by fredintoonGoes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
[link is broken]
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I put a very small socket against the carb post to receive the pin, cut a small nail to about 1/2 an inch long to push the pin, and then used a small clamp to press the pin out. no stress on the carb posts at all. Later on, if you want to retain the pin shoulder, just use the clamp to push the pin back in, again no stress on the carb posts.1980 XS1100 Special
1197cc Wiseco kit
1978 cams
4 into 1 Jardine with glasspack
Keihin CR33 mm carbs
K&N individual pod filters
TKAT fork brace
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Bill Denton posted this on the XS650 list.
"Use an automatic centrepunch on their tail ends." The kinetic energy from the punch never reaches the support posts to snap those pathetically frail things off and the little pins just come flying out of there. All other methods are inferior to this one. I even paid $18 for a GOOD automatic centrepunch.Fred Hill, S'toon
XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
"The Flying Pumpkin"
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I know John posted it above but for all those that didn't check the following link (http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...5&pagenumber=7) it's a worthwhile read.
Here's a preview of Ken Talbot's achievements... too bad my float pins are all good. (Maybe I'll have to forget to drain the carbs this winter so I can try out one of those tools)
Ernie
79XS1100SF (no longer naked, now a bagger)
(Improving with age, the bike that is)
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