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  • Fork Oil Change...

    I've just rebuilt the forks on my other ride and I'm thinking I'll change out the fork oil in the XS while I'm doing forks.

    I've read the "fast fork oil change" tip but it seems messy and not so accurate to fill from the bottom.
    Has anyone tried filling the forks through the top by removing the air valve stem and using a syringe or funnel to fill it? Is taking the caps off really that big a deal? I know on my honda its not to hard to get them started again but it seems like folks make a big deal about it on the XS's.
    1979 xs1100 Special -
    Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

    Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

    Originally posted by fredintoon
    Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
    My Bike:
    [link is broken]

  • #2
    You can't fill em through the air valve stem. The hole is just too small. Maby if you just had a syringe. Its easy enough to take the caps off. I just use an old tube from a vacuum cleaner to put pressure on it while I rotate it on. I do have stock springs which may be why it is so easy for me.
    United States Merchant Marine Academy, Kings Point, NY
    If I can do it at 18 yrs old, anyone can
    "You know something, You can't polish a turd"
    "What are you rebelling against", "Well, what do you got?"
    Acta Non Verba

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    • #3
      I just replaced the fork oil in my 79F yesterday. I loosened the upper clamps, used a 22mm to loosen the cap, then spun it off using downward pressure with my hand. Drained the fluid from the bottom, replaced the old with new, then using downward pressure again with my hand I reinstalled the cap just enough to catch the threads of the cap. Finished tightening the cap with the 22mm wrench, retightened the upper clamp bolt. Repeat for other side. Took about a half hour.
      Jim Horton
      Myrtle Beach SC 29588
      843-274-5045

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      • #4
        The last time I changed mine I did it with the tubes off. Took the plug out and held them down in a bucket to squirt the old oil out. Used a 50cc syringe with a 16 gauge horse needle and squirted it back into the drain hole while the tube was laying on its side. Worked great - no muss, no fuss.
        I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

        '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

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        • #5
          To re-install the upper spring seat (with the air valves in it) I have used a piece of 2x2 (wood) about 10-12 inches long. I measured across the air valves (22mm, or so) and cut a notch at the end of the 2x2 that is deep enough to sit down over the valves. You can just push down on the 2x2, get the threads squared up, and screw the cap in. Very easy, and you won't tear up the palm of your hand trying to start the threads. I just swapped my fork springs out a couple of weeks ago, and that is when I came up with this method. It works wonderfully.

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          • #6
            installing caps

            My trick to installing fork caps with air valves is... Take the air valve unit out (10mm), 15/16" socket (6 pt.) 1/2" drive fits over the irregular cap, push down and tighten with socket, extension, and rachet handle. Dings up the fork cap a little but works great.
            2H7 (79) owned since '89
            3H3 owned since '06

            "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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