Idle mixture screws?

[ChadXJ821100]

Hello carb experts,

Question for ya? I am triple cleaning my 82 1100 carbs and have removed everything but the idel mixture screw caps and screws. The bike sat for at least 5 years, do I need to remove the caps and clean? The carbs were terribly dirty elsewhere.

I have read in several places including my manual to leave them alone. What do you think?

As many of you have experienced this bike was dead on arrival and I trying like hell to resurect it before summer has come and gone. Getting spark was my first battle and that was finally acomplished with a different TCI box. This website has made it all possible and I very mucy appreciate the help.

Thanks,

Chad

[Ken Talbot]

Yes, you do need to remove them. Without taking the carbs off the rack or removing the butterflies, you need to remove absolutely everything else than can possible come off or out. If you cheat and leave any part of it together, you will just have to go back in again and do it over. The phrase triple clean came about because of all the guys who think they've gone in far enough the first time, then a bit farther the second time, and finally listen to the advice and do it right their third time in.

[prometheus578]

Once you get the screws out, don't forget about the washer and the O ring.


http://www.xs11.com/forum/images/tip...eedleparts.jpg

[ChadXJ821100]

So is there a best method for removing the cover plates? I am assuming a small screw and pull or pry off?

Also should I attempt to find the setting for each for the install by turning in to seat and back out? I have read many threads about breaking tips and I would rather keep this simple.

Also what is the jet (route) that comes out of the float bowl side into the carb body? They were completly pluged and I had a heck of time clearing. I ended up working with a small twisty wire to clear them out. It didn't appear that I could even remove the small brass jet inside for further cleaning. The triple cleaning has already bypassed triple...

Thanks,

Chad

[John]

The caps for the pilot screws can be removed by drilling a small, shallow hole in the cap, but not too deep, you'll hit the slot on the top of the screw. Once the holes are drilled, thread a wood, or sheet metal screw into the hole in the cap, and using a pliers, pull the cap out. You could pry it out if you want. Now that the screws are accessible, run them down to a light seat, counting the number of turms until the screw stops turning. Write the number down, so you can return it to that setting once the cleaning is done. The pilot screws in the XJ carbs have been redesigned to eliminate the chance of breaking, so don't worry about it. Once you have the screw out, ensure the small O ring and flat washer come out of the hole also. Be careful not to lose them, they are hard to come by. Pay attention to the order of assembly when going back together. The best way to reassemble and insert the pilot screws is to lay the carbs on their side. Assemble the screws by first installing the spring first, then the washer and the O ring last. By having the carbs on their side, the washer, O ring, and spring will not fall off the screw when reinserting it into the carb. Turn the screw to a light seat, and set the screw the same number of turns out that it took to seat the screw before disassembly.
The brass tube that protrudes into the hole in the side of the bowl is where the enrichener (choke) circuit gets it's fuel. If the small orifice in the bowl is clogged, then the choke will not work in that carb. I hope you used a very fine wire to clean the orifice. If it is enlarged, the choke will be too rich, and will flood that cylinder. When cleaning the brass tube, you must open the choke, to ensure a clear path for the fuel.