Aluminium clear coat.

[gareth]

I got my covers back from the polisher, Steve Whitney of Whitworx, today and they looked terrific. I dipped them in lacquer thinner and wiped them down and let them dry. I had read good reviews of the Duplicolor clear engine enamel so the next job was to get a coat or two of that on to preserve the polish. I gotta say that I'm really underwhelmed with the result. The Duplicolor engine enamel that I used, the Clear 500F stuff, goes on with a milky finish and makes the covers look exactly like they have been painted with a quality metallic paint. I freakin' hate it... I am hoping right now that the finish, when it cures, cures to a true "clear". Anyone got some input here? Paintman? I think I have a window of a few hours when I can just dip them in thinner again and get back to where I was. I'm pretty sure it's not a humidity "blush", (something that we used to get when we sprayed cellulose lacquers back in the days before post-catalysed conversion varnishes..)

If anyone has any tips for a true clear heat resistant enamel for this application, let me know. If I wanted them to look painted, I would have just .. well...you know..
I could spray everything with just a few ounces of material so expense isn't really the issue. Just need some recommendations.

Thanks for any and all advice,

Gareth

[jjwaller]

Had the same problem with DC Clear coat.
It is because of high humidity.
You need to spray the parts in direct sun-light. In other words let them bake.
Started my tank and aluminum parts in the garage, and they did exactly as you said.
Paint them in nice hot sunshine, or spring for several heat lamps to heat the painted surfaces.
It really works.
It's the enamel paint, haven't got around
to using 2 part poly yet. That's next.

Good luck

John

[bikerphil]

sealer

I've never used it but this stuff is used by hotrod guys. Here's a link......

http://www.zoopseal.com/zoopseal.asp

[tinman905]

I had the same thing happen to me .I sprayed my wheels and one cover and it look great but another can on the same day and the covers look like I sprayed them with a grey aluminum paint.

I was lucky to catch it early and used some 0000 stainless steel wool and the clear coat came off easy and left a nice shine behind. I went out and exchanged the can with another and everthing looks great now.

[gareth]

Try, Try again...

Just stripped the lot. Back to square one. I set up the heat lamps as John suggested, got everything nice and toasty, but the problem remains. Maybe, as Tinman discovered, there are batch quality issues can-to-can....I will pick up another can tomorrow and see if the problem recurs.
The Zoopseal stuff looks interesting.. wonder how heat resistant it is?
Still curious about any two-part, sprayable water-white gloss clear that is specially formulated for this application...

G.

[bikerphil]

zoop

Website says Safe up to 400F. That sounds borderline for engine covers on a hot day stuck in traffic.

[jjwaller]

Sorry to hear it still doesn't work.
Finally got mine to work in early afternoon
in direct sunlight. Even then I had to rotate the parts to ensure even heating.
The shady side would still gray up.
But next time it is definitely going to be
real polyurethane clear.
Thank god for my compressor!

[Yamaniac]

glisten PC, from POR15. works well if you spray it, doesnt work well if you brush it on. It's a humidity cured product or something like that.... in other words, it cures the best in higher humidity.

[TADracer]

I once used some stuff called Nyalac that I got in spray cans from Eastwood. This stuff worked great and was easy to apply. You spray it on until it almost drips off of the part then you hang it up and let it air dry for a couple of hours. It looks just like the factory coating but the drawback is that it only lasts for about 5 years then it starts to turn slightly.

I have since opted for naked.

[JACKHAMMER01]

I've been using Dupli-Color for years, and have never had a problem. With the 500 Clearcoat, the milkiness has always disappeared overnight. I just take my time when spraying it, in multiple light coats, as directed. I've had great success with it, and I'm saddened that you had bad results. I've sprayed it over paint, and directly on brushed and/or polished surfaces.

[Bullet]

I just glass bead blasted all my covers/ lower fork tubes, and used DC Clear coat on all them.

They came out great ..

thin coats is the key .. and the stuff dries pretty fast too ..

I put on 3 thin coats in 10 minute intervals .. let them sit for a day , good to go ..

[SiP]

Lots of words telling us how great they look! No pictures?

[Brasco18]

I heard of this stuff called VHT Flameproof clear coat... Has anyone heard of this before? Is it good stuff?

[geniusloerts]

gareth,

Bummer about the clear coat.....no matter what you use when you apply a clear coat the luster will change, it will always dull.....

Steve said the best thing to do is not to use a clear coat, but to use a metal protectant/cleaner and wipe it down every so often..

to remove finger prints get some chaulk powder and put it on a soft towel (terrycloth) and wipe it down.....this eliminates the grease of finger prints and stuff.....



Also so remove any previous clear or junk period off of aluminium dip it in carb cleaner....does miracles and doesnt harm the aluminum.

[DELL82]

IHAVE USED THE VHT Flameproof clear coat with great results. I sprayed my frame, engine, side stand, center stand, pegs, and other accessories with VHT Gloss Black then topped with clear. Gloss black is awesome when covered with the clear. Both paints are good to 900 Degrees F. I am rebuilding a CB450 SC Nighthawk 1982 model from frame up.
Dell82