'Stiff" front wheel

[Bonz]

So, sounds like my SG doesn't have the anatomy you are referring to.

I'm pretty much convinced that the seal in the piston bore needs to me removed and make sure it hasn't accumulated 28 years of black flecks behind it. If that doesn't do it, I'll ride it (disc only gets slightly warm) and the pads will wear in enough in a short time to alleviate the problem. There wasn't any dragging that I recall before I put new pads on. The old ones had 28 years of very slight fork oil leak on them (completely gone since the bike is being ridden now) and I could stop faster by putting my feet down...

Anyway, I'll let you guys know after I pull the piston and clean behind the seal.

[bikerphil]

Special rt. caliper alignment

Hey Crazcnuk, to answer your question, loosen the pinch bolt on the rt. side fork leg, then pry in/out the leg to center the rotor in the caliper bracket. Tighten the pinch bolt.

[Bonz]

Alright gents, I took the piston out the 3rd time to clean behind the seal, and it was hardened brown crud that I removed, so thanks for the heads up.

Putting it all back together, there is nothing else I can do and once the piston seated to the depth of the seal, it needed persuasion to tap it home. Just some tapping with a hammer, but that piston will not go without help. The square o-ring was cleaned off as well.

The piston and bore were in immaculate shape, so it is what it is in regards to putting the piston back in and the effort required vs. just sliding in.

I'll get it out for a ride tomorrow and see how it goes. Didn't get the caliper back on tonight, so I have to finish in the morning.

[Ken Talbot]

It sounds like you may still have a blocked-up spoogehole in the master cylinder. This will cause a residual pressure in the lines that keeps the pads pressing against the rotor when you let off the brakes. It can also keep you from pushing the piston into the bore in the caliper.

[Bonz]

Fluid flows out the spooge hole when I lower the MC fluid level to basically empty and work the lever, and I cleaned it out with wire just to be sure.

Wouldn't the spooge hole have an effect on both calipers since there is only one spooge hole? The left caliper is fine.

Also, I opened the bleeder screw which makes the spooge hole a non-issue for seating the piston.

The ONLY thing left as it relates to the piston seating issue, is a new bore seal vs. re-using the old one. And the old seal is in fine shape.

I mentioned earlier in the thread that my bore o-ring definitely protrudes on the lower edge, like it works as a wiper on the piston to create a great seal. It just makes sense that the piston will not seat as easily once it gets to the seal because of that. If the seal didn't make good contact, it would leak!

In any event, thanks for all the ideas. I'm just going to ride and enjoy, keep a close eye on the pads, and know that a hundred miles or so will wear the pads just a bit and the slight pad drag will go away.

If it wasn't for all the help here, I wouldn't have thought to clean things out like I have and the bike is much better off for it.

I would like to know if the spooge hole WAS plugged, why only the right caliper or the left could be affected, but not both. Just for curiosity at this point...

[Ken Talbot]

Originally posted by hbonser
I would like to know if the spooge hole WAS plugged, why only the right caliper or the left could be affected, but not both.

I think you've got it right. If it was a spooge hole problem, it should have affected both calipers.

[Bonz]

Did the left caliper cleaning this morning, and I correct myself with what I said about the piston bore seal. It sticks out on top and bottom edge, not just the bottom edge as I had said previously.

Rode about 100 miles total today and she did fine. Turned 38.2 mpg at a mix of 55 mph highway and 75-80 mph interstate. If only this bike had been geared a bit taller... YES, I know there are conversions but not interested because of the work and my goal is to have an origianal classic, which we all know this bike is!

Ran into XSMILES at a stoplight in Castle Rock, Colorado and ended up at the same bike shop getting parts, etc. Nice XJ he has there with vintage Vetter fairing, bags and a great new paint job.

[Crazcnuk]

The beauty of the final drive mod is that it isn't much work at all, and no one can tell it isn't orignal classic!

[Bonz]

I've read threads about the final drive change out, and it sounded like it wasn't a straight across swap out.

Am I correct I'd have to find a donor bike first, or can I get the parts otherwise?

[bikerphil]

750-850 final

Just buy a 750 or an 850 final off of eBay, a $3 bushing from Ace hardware, and some RTV black. Takes about 1/2 an hr. to modify the unit, and then swap them out. Also, have to cut the bushing down to proper size, (5-10 min.), and that slips on the existing driveshaft (1100) before re-assembly. Do a search "750 final drive mod" to read more. On a Standard, 3500 RPM = 70 MPH.

[bikerphil]

Special

On a Special, 70 MPH = about 3800 RPM because of the smaller 16" rear wheel. HTH

[Bonz]

Man, you guys have me really thinking about the swap. I got the XS with the intent to use it as a run around, because it does run such a high rpm at today's speeds. Well, spent the weekend changing tires, brakes, new chain, sprokets, etc on my V Strom 1000 and used the XS for a couple rides up and down the interstate making trips into town. And I still don't like the high rpm! What I don't like is blowing through gas at 38 mpg when I know I could get a lot better with a swap. I know, 38 mpg isn't a shame, but if I can do better...

What's the preferred donor, a 750 or 850, or whichever I can find?

I've read up on the swap a lot already and it looks like an easy one for the benefit.

[DiverRay]

The 850 is a slightly newer design, but they both work. Just pick up a complete final drive unit from ebay, or a local bone yard, and away you go. I DO know the wrecker in Longmont is a little high on his price for the final drive. I stopped in when I was there for work last year, and he wanted $90 for a final drive. I pickup up mine on ebay for $45, delivered WITH the swing arm and drive shaft.

[Bonz]

Thank you for the heads up on a place not too far away from me.

I'll try ebay first and see what comes up.