Broken idle mix screw

[Toolmaker Tim]

I have been attempting to get a 1981 Xs1100 special running. PO told me upfront the number three exhaust valve was bent. Yeah, that one and a couple others. Got that fixed and got her running, at least idling. I have been watching a couple other threads and took the advice to go back through the carbs. PO obviously thought the idle mix screws should be TIGHT to start with. Now I have 2 broken off tips stuck in the carbs (cylinders 2&3). Whats the easy way to get them out, I've already tried the hard ones. I do have an extra set of carbs with good screws, but they have 2 broken off float posts. I have wanted an XS11 since high school and I'm close (I hope), but I'm about ready to pull out whats left of my hair.

[stevec5000]

Since the tips stick into the carb you should be able push them out from the inside. You'll have to grind new tips on the screws or replace them though or you won't be able to adjust the idle.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Tim,

Have you seen THIS TECH TIP on removing the broken tips??

Also has been several discussions so a search should reveal them! The above tech tip should be right up your alley, requires possible modification/making a tool!
T.C.

[bikerphil]

broken tips

When you're removing those tips, try not to butcher up the holes too much, this will make tweeking the idle mixture more difficult. Don't ask how I know. I had to use new screws with a shortened spring, screwed way down in to get her to idle nice. Very sensitive when adjusting. HTH

[mro]

I've tried the push pin method and a couple others without success
So I tried to make a tool to get em out, but the heat from the welder removed the temper from the piece I added to the pliers. So I made anouther tip from a junk tap which I then put into a vise grip, placed new tool on offending broken tip and with a single tap with a wrench on the vise grips popped out the tip first try. So far have only had the occasion to try it out a couple times but has worked first time every time.




mro
BTW, made the pointy thing by placing the tap into drill press and then using an air powered cut off wheel as a grinder to form the point.

[bikerphil]

removal tip

That ground down tap is a good idea. I used a ground down flat cut nail with a point. It worked so-so.

[Toolmaker Tim]

Broken mix screw

I tried the push out method and had no luck. I managed to get one out by using a 1/32 carbide endmill androlling it between my fingers. It didn't work as well on the other two. I wasn't able to keep the cutter on top of the brass tip, so I stopped and looked for another opinion.I'm laid off right now, so I don't have access to a Bridgeport, otherwise I wouldn't be bothering you guys. Not trying to be a smart aleck, but I figured you have already answered this question a million times. I guess I should have looked further into the Tech tips. I like the pliers with the welded on point idea. I imagine with all of this hacking around the jet hole it will not be as it was, soooo. Can this hole be opened up from .032 that my other carb set has, say .046 to make them all uniform? My other carb set is in better shape, but it has two float posts broken off, one in each carb. I can set the float heights ok, and the pins are pretty solid when they are pushed in(tap fit),but I could see some pretty rotten side effects if a pin was to back out. My guess is the carbs would over flow at a really bad moment. I am intimately familiar with that Murphy guy. When I get called back to work I had a brainstorm about how to fix the posts on the floats, but that is another subject. I just want to go riding! Thanks for your ideas, all try them and let you know what happens. Probably won't be today considering it's Mothers Day.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey again Tim,

Folks have had luck in using/applying some JB Weld to the enlarged hole once the broken tip was removed, and then before it sets, putting a new pilot screw in...slightly oiled, and screwing it down until the tip just clears the opening to recreate the proper sized hole, and then let the JB set.

As for the broken float posts, JB weld has worked for them as well. Being a machinist, you may have other ideas, and have seen several on here, like drilling/tapping a threaded hole into the broken base, and attaching a replacement of many forms, styles made from stock, etc.! Others have drilled holes into the base and broken post to use a pin inbetween with JB weld. If you know how you might even try welding the post back, but cast aluminum isn't the easiest stuff to weld!!

Once the float bowl is in place, the pins can not back out, they hit the sides of the bowls, so the pins don't need to be a snug fit into the posts! That's why some have replaced with looser fitting pins, nails, brads, etc. to prevent further chances of breaking off on subsequent trips into the carbs!

Good Luck! T.C.

[mro]

Originally when I read about using JB Weld to hold a broken post in place was a little more than skeptical. At the time was no big deal as I had several sets of spare carbs.
Later tho, spare carbs are gone and a set came into shop for a clean/adjust job but guy did did not mention that he had tried to get a stuck float pin out and had broken the post.

Offered to drill it and fit a roll pin between post and carb body, plus a little aluminum glue but guy did not want to spend the money for a "proper" repair and not for replacing the carbs...so I just JB Welded it

Has held for over a year. Sanded down the float pin so when it has to come out should not require much force.

mro
BTW Toolmaker Tim
In above photo between plyer and tap is a removed pilot needle tip for compairison. Bottom of point on the tap is "flat"

BTW2
interesting read here about stuck float pins with a happy ending
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...l&pagenumber=2

[Toolmaker Tim]

Broken vent pin

Ok. I've used JB to fix holes in my duckboat, but I didn't want to try that in gasoline soaked enviorment. Like I said before, I've met that Murphy guy before. The part about the end of the pusher part of the pliers is a good thought though. I was going to take a cheap pair of pliers apart and drill and tap a hole in them for a screw.That way I can take them apart or easily adjust or repair the pusher screw. Still the same basic idea. As far as the float post goes I was going to mill the small part off, drill and ream the stump, make a replacement post, press it in. I can then cross drill the stump to hold the new piece in place with a roll pin. Then I can drill a new pin hole. Seems like a lot of work I know, but I like to do things like that. That's why Toolmakers drink so much and have high divorce rates, we're not right upstairs. Happy, but not right. I might make up some pins with E clip slots in them. Seems less risky than tapping on the side of a cast aluminum that has a history of breaking!