Valve adjustment anyone?

[ACE]

The good news is the restoration project is about complete.
Saved the best for last. The bike runs good but was told when I got it the valves should be checked.
I have machanical knowlage and ability but never attempted this on an 1100. Any advice I'll say thanks!
Instead of 0.021 om exaust I have an average of 0.010.
Intake 0.016 is aruond0.006.
I've read all the old posts and my plan of attack is the pro motion tool since this is all i've seen .
Where to get shims? I'll try the arrogant local Yamaha shop.Can any one tell me is it safe to remove the shims to see what ones I have, keep them out, and still turn the engine over with the shims removed?
I'm use to an adjusting screw! These shims are new to me.
I'll say one thing for these bikes! The clearance is only half of what I should have but this 1100 still runs great!
Long live the XS

[Dennyz]

Nope! can't run with out the shims. The shims are also the tappit tops.

I have found that the valve clearance gets smaller over time. Both my XSs had tightend up on the valve clearances. The motor runs much smoother and quieter after adjusting the valves.

[CA.XSer]

Try this for valve shims http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm or e-mail http://www.zanottimotor.com/ . I have not used Zanottis for shims but have used CRC2. The XS uses the 29mm.

[ACE]

Let me refraze that.
Can I take the shims out one at a time and still turn the engine over to remove the other shims for inspection without messing the cam up?
I'm kind of touchy screwing things up when they are so hard to find.
Has anyone seen a grown man throw a fit?
I think all will go well ,,,,,,,,,,,,,, If I don't get mad!
ACE

[ACE]

CA XSer,
Thanks for the web sites, I see they list them!

[Dennyz]

I would not turn the engine over with out the shims in. It would put the cam surface on to the valve cap, which is protected by the shim.

Check each valve, measure what it is, write it down, pull out the shim, write it down, put it back in and go to the next one.

From your notes you can figure out what you need and where to put it. I was able to move shims around to resolve some of them and trade the one I did not need for the ones I did need. The local bike shop (D&S Cycle in Beaverton Oregon[plug]) was great to work with.

[crunchbird]

I've put over 20k on Crunchbird, it has always leaked a little oil at the front "half moon" plug. I have a new plug, but if I get the cover off to replace it I'll have to use a new gasket, so I might as well check the valve clearances, but I know they'll be tight and I don't have the tool. Maybe soon I'll put out a call for a loaner in the Portland area. But my questions:
How can people move shims around to get better matches when all the clearances are getting tighter? Do you just end up with the last one that is wayway off? And what was the original situation, did they play that game at the factory or were they all one thickness. Just curious.

[Dennyz]

Crunchbird wrote:

How can people move shims around to get better matches when all the clearances are getting tighter? Do you just end up with the last one that is wayway off? And what was the original situation, did they play that game at the factory or were they all one thickness. Just curious.

The two engines I have done had a wide varity of shim sizes. I believe the factory selected the shim to get the lash with in spec. Over time, the block and head have changed enough to throw the lash off.

If you don't want to mess with a new gasket, try Yamabond. I had to split the case of my dirtbike and used it to seal it back up. It went on easy and sealed it up great.

[uk1.1s]

Shimming...more

Done this a few times on a number of bikes, including the XS11 maybe twice / three times.

I have the Motion Pro tool now and it's OK - works, nothing spectacular. I have also used a home-made tool, so maybe my standards aren't too high for quality shimming tools.

Procedure is to get a shim out with the cam lobe turned away from the shim / valve bucket (in the same position as when you measured the gap. Once out (if you're lucky and the last guy in there wasn't too lazy), the hidden side of the shim should have the shim size acid etched on it. If it was put in the other way around the cam will have worn away the mark and you'll have to measure it with some vernier calipers / micrometer or such like.

Do not turn the engine over without the shim in. Replace and work along - taking one out, reading off or measuring size, replacing and then turning the engine over to take the next one out. In the end you should have a piece of (usually oily) paper with all the clearances and shim sizes. You can now work out which sizes to order (there’s a table in most manuals or simple calculation).

Some garages over here (UK) used to do a replacement service giving you some cash back if you returned the shims that you take out. I have never done this as it's always useful (and cheaper) to have a few spares for the next time.

Care with buying shims. One place convinced me that shims from a Suzuki GS 850 / GS 1000 (or 1100) fitted. I tried and they are damn close - but I aborted and got the right ones in the end. Diameter is a little too tight as I remember. One alternative I haven't tried is that SAAB car shims (Saab 900 series) will fit an XS1100. Probably much cheaper too - but you'll have to evaluate that one yourself as I haven't any experience.

Be methodical - double check what you measure, and try not to get the paper too oily to read!

[strom]

I'd take the cams out... it's a 15 min job, just don't forget to check how to sync them afterwards first. (first check how to... well u know what I mean )

LP

[xssiveone]

Originally posted by strom
I'd take the cams out... it's a 15 min job, just don't forget to check how to sync them afterwards first. (first check how to... well u know what I mean )

If you go this route, align the timing marks per the manual. Then tie the cam chain to the cams first. (string, plastic wire tie, etc) Then remove tensioner, cam bearing caps, etc. As long as the crank doesn't get turned before you put them back in they will be in proper time.

[ACE]

Guys, thanks for the good advice!
I'm waiting on the Pro Motion tool from Dennis Kirk. If that doesn't work right I'll pull the cams,We will see.
Shims, I called the local Yamaha shop for starters today and was told they could get them but maybe to look else where . $30.00 each? They are crazy!
I'll be checking out some suggestions here. I just need to see what i got to see what I need.

Spring is getting closer!
ACE

[captjerry]

Ace at 30 bucks he must be talking about 4.....
List is 8 bucks each and thats from Partsfish.

[ACE]

The valve job is done!! Not a big deal for a first timer but I couldn't find a can of patience for sale anywhere so I just made do.
Got gasket and camshaft plugs from ParsnMore. TWO thumbs up.
Got valve shims from Cycle-RE-Cycle. They have a good selection and got them quick. Two more thumbs up. Got other stuff from Dennis Kirk, another good place.
Got allot of info from this site and you guys! AAA+++

My biggest mistake was a feeler gauge in thousands. Get a metric one!!!!
A few of the shims were hard to get out. I found compressed air works great, pops those babys right out.

The Pro Motion valve tool. Lets see????????????
Piece of steaming crap?
I read all the posts on this thing.
Don't grind the bottom off to get the tip closer to the valve.
Do make sure it is square with the head and even with the cam lobe. I found the slotted holes are not right.
I took a file and made the hole slotted longer and it worked great.
Almost.
Waiting on my parts i used it on a parts bike i got.
The intake on #1 cylinder didn't work no matter what!
Never did get the shim out.
No amount of cussing.
I really thought I had this tool figured out.
I dont know why it works on the other bike and the parts bike but one cylinder it will not do jack #%*@

Thanks guys and hope this helps someone else.
ACE