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  • Greetings and question

    Hello all,

    New here. My main hobby is building wooden boats but now I have done a really crazy thing and have acquired a really nice 1980 Special.

    The bike is generally in good shape. I have changed out all the fluids. PO had the carbs set up before sale. I will be going for a safety this week.

    One concern is that the bike creeps forward in 1st. It even stalled once I put it in 1st with the clutch fully engaged. Related, I can't get it back into neutral from 1st. My guess is cable adjustment. So, into the manual and using info from this site, I take off the adjustment arm cover and the first thing I noticed was the lack of a spring - gone.

    What does this spring do? I don't know what I don't know here. Before I attempt an adjustment, I should probably put in a new spring? Source?

    Thanks all,

    Steve
    1980 Special

  • #2
    I'm taking an educated guess here but the spring is just to help the clutch lever return when you release it, shouldn't cause the creeping problem your seeing.

    First I'd measure (eye ball maybe) the length of spring you need and then take a trip to the hardware store and pick up a couple that look about right, doesn't need to be very stiff unless you want to get a stronger left hand. Then take em home and pick the one that seems best, you'll probably have to bend and or cut the ends of it to fit. If you've looked as some of the clutch pictures in the tech tips then you should have a good idea of what the stock one looks like.

    Then I'd adjust the clutch cable, you already have the directions. If the adjustment looks good then it could be that the clutch is sticky, has the bike been sitting for a long time?

    If it has and the adjustments look good I'd start it up and let it idle so the oil can move around and then take it for a short/careful ride so the clutch disks can get some oil in/on them.
    1979 xs1100 Special -
    Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

    Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

    Originally posted by fredintoon
    Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
    My Bike:
    [link is broken]

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks,

      The bike has not had a decent run since probably November of 2007. A bit of engine time but I suspect no running through the gears.

      It had a lot of gas in the oil - it was super thin. New 20/50 as of last week.
      1980 Special

      Comment


      • #4
        If you had gas in the oil it means your going to have to go through the carbs and your fuel petcocks. They should both shut off the gas before it runs out the carbs and either into the air box or the engine. In the mean time make sure your shutting off the gas when your not riding or you will have to change the oil again.
        1979 xs1100 Special -
        Stock air box/K&N Filter, MAC 4-2 exhaust, Bad-Boy Air horn, TC fuse box, Windshield, Soft bags, Vetter Fairing, Blinkers->Run/Turn/Brake Lights, Headlight Modulator, hard wire GPS power

        Short Stack - 1981 xs1100 Standard - lowered for SWMBO.

        Originally posted by fredintoon
        Goes like a train, corners like a cow, shifts like a Russian tractor, drinks like a fish, you are gonna love it.
        My Bike:
        [link is broken]

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Greetings and question

          Originally posted by aaawood

          So, into the manual and using info from this site, I take off the adjustment arm cover and the first thing I noticed was the lack of a spring - gone.

          What does this spring do? I don't know what I don't know here. Before I attempt an adjustment, I should probably put in a new spring? Source?

          Thanks all,

          Steve
          The best bet for you is to contact a member named andreshweiss, and ask if he has that spring. He is our resident used parts source, and he generally has what ever you may need.
          Andreas alway has an ad in the classified section of the main forum. You can PM him from there.

          Comment


          • #6
            Hi and welcome
            the spring is a return spring, it pulls the 'bar' down to take pressure off the mechanism .you probably need one, Next thing, There are 2 adjustments to the clutch 1 is the cable you should have 2 or3 mm at the hlever before it starts to tighten the cable the other is where the spring should be NB DO NOT TOUCH THE CLUTCH LEVER UNTILL YOU HAVE FINISHED THIS PROCEDURE , there are 3 ball bearings that WILL fall out roll across the floor fall down the drain ,the dog will eat them or something worse ;-(
            OK the procedure is loosen the lock nut in the centre of all that stuff and turn the adjusting screw IN (clockwise) until it positively but lightly contacts the pressure plate ( the thing behind all that stuff) there is an O ring on it so it may cause some resistance , you MIGHT be able to see it contact the plate ,but don't count on it, when you have contact back the screw OUT 1/4 turn and retighten the locknut , check for free play at the other end and go for a ride
            Seamus Ó hUrmholtaigh
            Niimi Moozhwaagan

            NOTICE: No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however, that a significant number of electrons may have been inconvenienced.

            Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental.


            Member of "FOXS-11" (Former Owner of XS-11)
            and SOXS
            2008 Nomad "Deja Buick'

            Comment


            • #7
              All,

              A good news parts story. The local Yamaha dealer north of here actually had a tension spring in stock - part# 90506-10069-00. $2.06! It seems to be shared across a few other models.

              Thanks for the replies,

              Steve
              1980 Special

              Comment

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