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  • turn signals STILL!!!!

    come on you guys.....someone out there has had to have this same prob. NO TURN SIGS. i have worked on this for 2 weeks and cannot figure it out. I do suspect the handle bar switch, but i will explain and listen to you're suggestsx.
    - with key in on position and all wires harness plugs together [as they should be] i can read +/_ 10.6 volts at the horseshoe type piece of metal in the switch with the 2 tabs on each side for the left or rite direction. [with me still]
    - after i activate the switch to the left or rite that voltage will drop to 6.9 volts. i suspect this is not normal, but i have no schematic, info in print, or anything to compare to.
    so.....info from you guys will help, if you ain't sick of hearing about these goddam turn sigs yet.
    thanks in advance
    redbone
    testing 1-2-3

    1980 1100 mns

  • #2
    Hey again Redbone,

    I found your old thread, you have an 80 MNS. You stated that you replaced the flasher relay, but you didn't confirm whether it was with a 2 or 3 prong unit. The 3 prong won't work. And you may have to try the 2 prong in one of the two positions that it can plug into the receptacle before you find a way that it will work.

    Also, as you have stated you have less than 12 volts at the switch. The Turn signal circuit has a higher 20 amp fuse rating due to the draw for the flasher relay that uses heat to activate the flasher. Some folks have had trouble getting them to work with JUST the key on but the engine not running due to it not providing enough POWER to activate the flasher.

    Others have done some severe cleaning of the contacts for the turn signal circuit and first they wouldn't work without the engine, but then after cleaning, they would work with just the key on, engine OFF!
    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey Redbone,

      I've been following your turn signal journey. I think you should try to find a used original flasher made for your bike. I'll bet that's the problem. It seems like you've tried everything else and they did work with the old flasher. I bought one on Ebay for my 81 special.

      Tim
      Tim Ripley - Gaithersburg, MD
      1981 XS1100 Special "Spoiled Rotten" Just sold - currently bikeless!!
      23mm float height
      120 main jets
      42.5 pilot jets
      drilled stock airbox with K&N
      Jardine 4 to 1 Exhaust
      spade fusebox
      1st and 2nd gear fix

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      • #4
        flasher

        I kinda remember that when I used the 2 prong flasher unit, I had to swap around the tan and the brn/wht wires at the flasher to get it to work. HTH
        2H7 (79) owned since '89
        3H3 owned since '06

        "If it ain't broke, modify it"

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        • #5
          turn signals

          Hello I had the exact same problem....it drove me nuts, I have a original shop manual with all the wiring schematics, if you give me your exact model and year i can send you the schematics...when you get follow the wiring exactly and with good grounds and it will all work out fine....I started from scratch on my bike.

          Cheers
          Peter.

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          • #6
            10.6v isn't enough to trigger the flasher, and if you have a voltage drop of almost 4v across the switch, then I would open it up and definitly clean the contacts. You have high resistance in there. Right now. forget about the horseshoe looking thing, and remove it from is mount. The T/S wires are below it. You will see a yellow/white wire soldered to a piece of phenolic material that will have three solder joints, and to either side of it there will be a green and a brown wire. These solder joints are known to break. The Y/W wire is the power wire to the T/S circuit, and the green is the left turn, and the brown is right turn. Now move the T/S selector to one side or the other, to choose a direction. If you have power at the Y/W wire, you should have power to either the brown or green. If not, the further disassembly is needed, to see if thecontacts in the sliding part of the switch are corroded or just gunked up. If there is power to the G or Br wire, then go to the wiring connection under the tank. If you have power to the G or Br wire then the circuit is complete, and the problem may lie downstream of there, like at the T/S lights themselves. You should charge the battery or hook up some battery cables, and attach them to your battery and to a car's battery. Leave the car's engine off. That will supply you with more than enough amperage to flash the T/S's.
            Last edited by John; 04-24-2008, 08:28 AM.

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