Now it runs like ...

[SanDiegoMike]

Garbage when I'm at a cruising speed on the freeway, or in the same RPM range in lower gears (sorry...my tach doesn't work, so I can't give you a range). Basically between 60-70mph in 5th, especially if on a slight incline, it just sputters and REALLY goes flat. I brought it up in a previous post as a surging feeling, but since removing my carb holders and removing all of the RTV from them that PO had liberally applied, then wrapping them and re-installing, the problem has gotten WAY worse. I didn't open the carbs at all, and I've sprayed around the intake w/carb cleaner while it was running since re-assembly to see if there was some kind of a leak @ the head...nothing noticed as far as change in RPM.
Down shifting while maintaining the same throttle position doesn't seem to help either. The only way to make it go away is to open up the throttle more, which could cause a problem with me and San Diego's finest.
With everything I've read in here about the misery encountered with cleaning the carbs, I'm honestly pretty apprehensive about tearing into them. Soccer4m has generously offered to let me borrow his sync tool one weekend. Would that be a reasonable place to start? BTW, I did the whole SeaFoam thing prior to removing those boots and adding in-line filters.
I have noticed that it starts up a lot easier in the morning, although it seems like the time it takes to get to that point when the RPM's increase and I click in to mid-choke is longer than before.
I'm baffled.

[bikerphil]

runs flat

Mike, check your plugs to see if they're fouled and check for kinked fuel line. Are the fuel filters installed in the right direction? They have a flow arrow. HTH.

[DiverRay]

Mike,
Go with the sync FIRST and FAST. IF it does not clear it up, you may need to "clean the carbs". It's NOT that hard! Once they are off, turn upside down to drain the fuel, pull the float bowls off, and use the spray SeaFoam or Berryman's B12. Set ALL THE FLOATS TO THE SAME LEVEL, and then BENCH TEST FOR LEAKS. Once good, reassemble, install, resync, and RIDE.

[bikerphil]

also

Forgot to add, is the vac. advance hooked up to the carb port and not the boot port?

[thewiz]

Might be ....

PU coil wires gone bad too .... everyone is focused on carbs here and that very well may be the problem ..... BUT .... if you haven't checked 'em yet, it might be a good idea to do so. It's pretty easy with an multi-meter and the seat off. These wires, when separated or down to the very last strand, can cause a plethora of performance issues that'll bring on hair loss for sure.

[81xsproject]

I vote with thewiz. That is EXACTLY what mine was doing when my PUC wires started to go. If you haven't done it, DO IT! Even if they aren't bad now, they WILL be at some point,

[jjwaller]

Wiz, 81XSproject,
Do you all mean PUC wires or are you referring to Coil/Spark plug wires?
Straighten me out please.

Thanks

[81xsproject]

The wires that connect your pick-up coils under the left crank cover are constantly being flexed back and forth as the vacuum advance/retard unit rotates the pickup coil mounting plate back and forth. After so long the wires start breaking inside the insulation. They will "look" fine, but they are not. Like I said if they aren't bad now, they WILL be sooner than later.

[thewiz]

Yup ... what 81 said

A search on 'pick up coil wires' had almost 90 threads .... pretty good readin' when you own an Eleven too. The factory manual describes the test very well and I'll bet it's repeated on more than one thread .... but here it is again:

Unplug the 4 prong plug from the TCI and check resistance

1. White/red to White/green (number one pick up coil)

2. Yellow/green to Yellow/red (number 2 pick up coil)

Readings should be 720 Ohm (+/- 20%)

If different than that, you have definately diag'ed at least one problem. I think there is a tech tip that covers the repair pretty well .... I followed it on two of my current three

[Ken Talbot]

Under static conditions, broken pick-up coil wires can still check out okay with a meter. For the definitive answer, you need to pull vigorously at the wires while testing, either with a meter while the motor is not running, or just yanking at the wires when the motor is running. Don't worry about having to be gentle with this. If you can pull these wires apart with your fingers, they were already broken or mostly broken.

[jjwaller]

Thanks for the great tips guys.
That's one quirk I hadn't heard yet.
I'll be on the lookout.

[thewiz]

.... pull vigorously at the wires ....

Yup .... it's a good feeling when you tug on one of those PU coil wires and you watch the insulation stretching, getting thinner, stretching more .... then finally ... it just breaks. Bingo ...

[81xsproject]

I tried all sorts of stuff to 'test' my PUC wire and couldn't get it to falter. I did them anyways...problem solved. Doing it now will take them out of the equation for future problems.