Front Axle Spacer

[newc4]

I got a question regarding a spacing washer on the front axle of my 79SF. When I removed the front tire to have new rubber mounted I didn’t take a hard look at the axle as I had done the same the previous year on my 78E. As I pulled out the axle I put the washer and castle nut on it and set it aside. You have to do a fair amount of manipulating the front forks and calipers to remove the wheel and I didn’t notice anything dropping down during my exertions.

When I reassemble the front, it appears I have an extra washer. The washer, is about 1/8 thick, fits over the axle and also fits in the right side bearing. However this pushes out the right collar so perhaps it goes on the outside between the right collar and fork.

Fiche shows no such washer external to the seals and bearings. And this isn’t the washer that’s next to the castle nut.

Is there supposed to be a spacer between the right collar and fork?

Darrell

[DiverRay]

Looking at the fitch, there IS no washer on the Right side. If you have PROPERLY assembled AND TIGHTENED the axle, all should be well. Some people try and tighten the pinch bolt, and THEN the axle bolt. THAT IS A BAD THING . The correct order on ALL MODELS is to tighten the axle bolt to specs, and THEN tighten the pinch bolt. That will keep everything lined up.

[mro]

When assembled there will apear to be about an 1/8" space on the right side. This "space" is needed to center caliper by moving fork in/out as needed. Should not be a washer there.


mro

[fredintoon]

Front wheel removal

Hi Darrell,
between when I went to look at my front axle & now, Ray & mro both posted on that orphan washer. Like they said:-
The axle nut clamps the speedo drive in place as it pulls the wheel against the left-side fork eye. Be sure the speedo drive is engaged with the drive dogs in the wheel and the peg on the fork. Leave the right-side fork's split axle clamp nuts a little slack until you can pump the forks up and down to let the fork align itself where it wants to be.
Here's what I do to take the front wheel out. Pull the axle. the wheel drops down but can only roll forward until the tire hits the caliper bodies. Reach in and remove the fender bolts. Wiggle the fender out of there. Now rotate the fork sliders to spread the caliper bodies outward to clear the tire so the wheel can roll clear.

[planedick]

Caliper

Remove two bolts on one caliper and drop it and you will have enough room to remove the wheel. Lots easier than removing the fender.......

[fredintoon]

"Remove two bolts on one caliper and drop it - - -"
Hi Dick,
nah, Darrell sez it's a 79SF.
With the swivelly calipers.
Easier to pull the fender than mess with those weird things.

[planedick]

Ah

So I see, said the blind man..... DUH my bad......

[newc4]

All,

Thanks for the feedback. I'm waiting on some front brakes pads to finish the front end. I did get an education on replacing brake pads on Specials.

I noticed on the back axle that my bike didn't have the collar between the the two brake caliper mounts unlike my 2 standards. I was diligent while I removed the back tire. I would've noticed that collar were it there.

A road test will be in order once the wx clears.

Darrell

[John]

The Specials don't have a collar, or spacer between the torque plate and the caliper mount. The only spacer is located right next to the wheel, then the caliper mount, and then the torque plate.

[Bonz]

Right side front disc clearance

Joined the ranks of the XS when I bought a 1980 1100SG Special a couple weekends ago from a friend. Perfect looking bike, I mean, incredible cosmetic shape. What lies beneath was a different story, but not a bad as I thought for a 28 year old bike! Changed all fluids: Middle and final drive, brakes front and rear, fork oil replacement, cleaned both master cylinders, etc. Put about 200 miles on it since all the fluids were changed, and everything is tight. Amazing to me!

Anyway... Front brake pads were part of what the doctor ordered. Got everything back together and she stops a lot better now! BUT, I don't have equal clearance of the right side disc in the caliper mount slot that is on the fork. With the axle back in place, and castle nut tightened (loose pinch bolts) the right fork settles in a position that is a bit too far outboard on the axle (right side, as sitting on bike) so that my clearance for the disc is slim, but it doesn't touch. If I apply a little pressure to the lower fork leg, I can move it inward and that gives me more appropriate clearance of the disc, and it eliminates the smallish gap between the fork and spacer. Does that make sense?

SO, as is, the clearance in minimal but it works. Leave it alone is what my gut tells me. Try as I may, I cannot "wiggle" the fork tube to get any more clearance.

What are your thoughts, anyone!

Thanks much in advance.

[Bonz]

clarification of my own post...

When I say:

"If I apply a little pressure to the lower fork leg, I can move it inward and that gives me more appropriate clearance of the disc, and it eliminates the smallish gap between the fork and spacer."

I have to tighten the pinch bolts at that point to keep it in place, otherwise it will return to the position of minimal disc clearance.

I see in this thread that there is supposed tto be a gap in order to be able to wiggle things to get that clearance, but I don't get the adjustability that I think I should have based on the shop manual and what you all say.

[fredintoon]

Another place to lube

Hi Howard and welcome,
a thing you didn't mention lubricating was the final drive shaft spline. Yes there's a grease nipple atop the rear drive casing but it only carries grease to the outside of the spline, not to where it needs to be.
Pull the rear wheel and unbolt the rear drive from the swingarm. The spline will pull off the spline shaft as the unit comes away and you can then slather the splines with moly grease. Doing this every time you change the rear tire is all it needs.

[Bonz]

Yes, I did lube the zerk so thanks for checking on that. Too bad it apparently doesn't do what it should!

So the grease does not migrate around in there to get where it needs to be? Or is there some fault in the design that keeps it from reaching the splines? You'd think when it warmed up with use that the grease would flow all over the place in there.

Thanks much, and any other thoughts are welcome!

-Any thought as to my situation with respect to the uneven clearance on the right disc?

[fredintoon]

brake disk clearance

Hi Howard,
remember that the old pads were worn mostly parallel but the new pads are tapered. Perhaps what you are seeing is the one thin edge and one thick edge at the front of the caliper making it look off-centre? Also that the caliper swivels on it's post to compensate for pad wear.
As to the grease not getting to the spline,
the Yamaha design ain't perfect. The engine runs backwards fer chrissake! And the octopus valve, I arsks ya, was that smart? You just gotta love them, warts and all.

[Bonz]

No, the inner lower fork casting itself has a slot for the disc to be centered in, just look at the bike from the front and you will see. The caliper mounts directly behind and to this. The upper tabs on the brake pads slot into this casting on the top where the shims are.

The casting where these slots are is what you have to rotate out of the way so the tire will have clearance to be pulled out once the fender is removed.

I just need to figure out if the fact the disc isn't centered in this fixed slot if there is any problem with this. The manual makes it pretty clear that it should be an easy feat to accomplish and shows specifically that there should be even gaps on either side of the disc.

The left side lines up perfectly, so I know it is something related to the right side only. Maybe just the way it is...