Why won't you start?!?

[AustinPhoenix]

Warning...this is starts out as a rant. And it turned out long, but I wanted to provide all the info that I could.

I cleaned my carbs on my 80g (going to take them off for cleaning number 2 though because I wasn't sure how to get into some of the jets since these carbs are very different from my 79 special...didn't want to eff anything up), reconnected them, tried to start her up without the pods....rrrr rrrr rrr...rrrr rrr rrr BANG....backfire. Out of which pipe (4 to 2 set up)? I'm not sure just yet. Since this was the first time that I had the battery hooked up, I stopped trying to start her and began fiddling with the headlight and blinkers when all electronics disappeared. Battery connections are good...battery was on a charger for 5 hours before I connected her. I felt like my G kicked me in the nuts with her kickstand.

Here's the story on my bike and what I found. She was dirty when I bought her for next to nothing (stored for 9 months after getting laid down after 2k was put into her to rebuild the final drive, replace head gasket, tune up, and clean the carbs...which was done very poorly). After cleaning it I found a few things
1. all the headers are blue (lean burn right?),
2. the tensioner leaks from it's seat not the plug, no other leaks though...that I can tell.
3. Carb 4 was black in the float bowl...looked like something got charred. The pod filter was off of this one...maybe the entire time it was stored.
4. The..uh...forgive me for not knowing the part...the thing with the tiny needle under the float that has a filter on the bottom...the needle thing was stuck preventing the float bowl from rising/lowering...but I freed it up.
5. My rear tire leaks from the inside of the rim. Are there supposed to be 3 holes or just 1? (Not a big concern now...but a concern nonetheless)
6. My "Choke"/enricher doesn't have resistance. ie. half or full that stays on it's own. It feels like it's attached to a spring that just returns to the closed position.

Here are my next steps and PLEASE feel free to correct me or offer any suggestions. I'm no certified mechanic, but I can tinker with the best of them!

1. take off carbs and CAREFULLY remove all the jets. (I think I've read enough on the XS' jets to know which ones to be EXTRA careful with...but I'll be asking questions soon I'm sure.)
2. Check plugs. I'll see what I can read. (one of the members said in another thread "90% of carb problems are ignition")
3. Check wires. Crank it with the plugs outside the engine.
4. Possibly switch the wires and/or plugs with my 79 special parts bike since it runs...but backfires on occasion (I found gross jelly chunks in the bowls of carb 3 and 4 when cleaning). Or just buy new ones altogether.
5. After things soak...I'm going to have to get the idle jets close to being the right setting (1.5 turns from lightly seated position right?) to stop the lean burn.
6. This should probably be number 2...check why everything shut down. My battery's on the charger now, so let's hope that's it. Any suggestions where to look or just start tracing wires?

So that's my plan of action. I am a NEWBIE to bikes and the XS!! Please slap me around if I'm doing something I shouldn't. I finished my MSF course with the highest score both on the written and riding!! My enthusiasm has me focused.

[CarolynS]

Soak

One thing I learned here right away from TopCat is don't soak the carburetors in a bucket. It will ruin the butterfly seals and you will have vacuum problems.
Right TC?

[81xsproject]

TC meant in a bucket of dip-type carb cleaner. You can soak them in a trough as long as it isn't something that destroys the seals

[CarolynS]

That's why I said "bucket" because it seems like you can soak them down good, but not submerse them like that.
Where he's new, and he's looking for help and he said "soak", I wanted to make sure he knew that before something happened that is bad.

[mro]

(one of the members said in another thread "90% of carb problems are ignition")
XS ignition systems are actually pretty reliable.
Seems half the time a problem with them is in wiring.
Corroded connectors to pick up coil wires breaking.
It is well worth the time to clean ALL connectors and grounds.
Can be a little tedious but helps eliminate problems and future problems.
Small tooth brush size wire brush, a pick and tiny screw driver can help get the connectors clean.
After cleaning and still having a problem post it....

90 percent of carb problems are from not being XSively through.
Study the carb diagram, know where the fuel goes, what jet does what etc.. Be sure carb cleaner spray passes thru all the opening and jets. Check and re-check float height.

80G has the rubber tipped float needles.
Good idea to bench test the carbs to insure there not leaking past the float needles as a last step before putting back on the bike.


mro

[mro]

began fiddling with the headlight and blinkers when all electronics disappeared
Check the main fuse, it's by it'self left side, oposite fuse box.


mro

[Flatlander]

Originally posted by mro
began fiddling with the headlight and blinkers when all electronics disappeared
Check the main fuse, it's by it'self left side, oposite fuse box.


mro

Good point and while you are there put a spare inside the holder for the future.

[AustinPhoenix]

hmmmm

Just to summarize and clarify.

Soaking. I was talking about the jets and other dirty little parts in the float bowl itself. I read too many tips/threads about destroying little rubber parts by soaking the entire carb body. I sprayed carb cleaner. Scraped with a toothpick and rinsed with gas. I was being a little too cautious I suppose.

What should I watch out for with the rubber parts? I have to find a small screw driver to get some of the jets out since they're so deep inside the carb.

Thanks for the tip on the main fuse!

Oh and I didn't completely disassemble the carbs, so don't ask me if I have parts left over or anything like that. lol I took off the float bowls and two of the diaphrams. The other two could be opened because cheap screws were used and the tips are pretty much ruined. Time for MR. Dremel to make a slot for a flat head screwdriver.

How do I bench test? I noticed the little rubber tip when I pulled it out. TOTALLY different from they special's. If it's in the tech tips, just let me know and I'll look it up.

Thanks you guys! Let's see what I can get going this afternoon.

[81xsproject]

Tip: Beware the pilot jets. They are infamous for not coming out. If the don't want to come out, leane them be and give them LOTS of spray and compressed air blasts.

[mro]

With the carbs upside down on the bench, float bowls off.
Hook up a fuel source to carbs. (I put the fuel tank above the carbs and attached some longer fuel lines, then turned petcocks to prime.)
Lift floats till gas just comes out, then let em sit for awhile to be sure they do not leak.


mro

[79XS11F]

First thing to do is "regroup" so to speak and tackle one issue at a time. Start by getting the electrical problems corrected. The bike may not run no matter how clean the carbs are if the electrical is messed up or intermittent. After that is done clean up all the carbs parts and bodies inside and out including all vent hoses including the ones in the air box. Once that's done check the other stuff like spark, timing, fuel condition and flow from the fuel tank to the carbs.
deal with one issue at a time and you will find the problem.
Rob

[CarolynS]

YOU GUYS ROCK!!

[AustinPhoenix]

ditto

I concur with your assessment Carolyn.

One of the local XSives is going to try and make it down to my place this week to slap some sense into me!!!! haha

[eroellig]

If worst comes to worst....

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ianlloy...n/set-1392334/

[AustinPhoenix]

LOL

So I got the electronics going! Full power once again! Next step: 2nd cleaning of the carbs!

Thanks for all the help you guys/gals!!