Question about Rear Wheel hub?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey folks,

I got tired of my MU-140/90-16 RWL rear tire rubbing the swingarm, and decided to take the advice of DoLee IIRC and put a set of 2mm washers between the Spline assembly and the wheel HUB to shift the wheel/tire to the right a few mm's!

What I found was there was a Large O-ring between the contact surface of the "crown" assembly and the protruding bearing shaft of the hub? The hub doesn't spin, so I'm hoping and assuming that this O-ring was more a water/dust seal for the assembly!?

I put the O-ring back in place, and there was another O-ring around the protruding bearing shaft/hub that got regreased and made a sealing fit like it normally did, but I wonder about the base O-ring?

So...DoLee, or KenTalbot(crown avatar), or other GURUS, any thoughts, any worries!?

I also couldn't find any torque values for them in my Clymer's manual, so I took them to about 55ft/lbs. Now I just checked my CDrom manual and found it, 38.5 ft/lbs! Oh well, I'm sure the bolts can hold at that torque!

[John]

Will moving it change the spacing of the rotor to caliper, and cause the brakes to drag?

[TopCatGr58]

Surprisingly no,

The brake caliper and mounting bracket and spacer are still in the same relative place and position they were in before the washers. The washers just push the whole assembly to the right a few mm's. The spline hub doesn't sit exactly flush with the bearing side on the left side, but there's room for it to protrude a little bit farther into the final drive assembly so that the bearings can still make contact with the final drive central area like it should. I first thought of using 2 washers on each one, but then saw that the spline/crown seemed to sit too far up from the surface of the bearing face!
T.C.

I oopsed a little when trying to disassemble it at first. I didn't look closely at the assembly, and after pulling the wheel out, I started to loosen the Bolts on the spline side! Then I realized that there were nuts and locking washers on the other side of the wheel beneath the brake rotor! I had to remove the rotor to get access to those nuts. I then loosened the nuts, and then the whole crown assembly slide up. The bolts are actually press fitted into the crown assembly. It took almost 100 ft/lbs of torque to loosen/spin the BOLTS before I realized that they were just spinning and not loosening!

[Do Lee]

Hey TC,
I've been running the Dunlop K491 Elite II MU-140/90-16 RWL on my bike as soon as they came out back 20+ years ago. Man did those letters disappeared fast on the left side. That's when I placed the washer on the inside to move the tire away from swingarm. With the raised white lettering I had to angle cut the letters for clearence.

A couple years back I replaced my last RWL tire with a standard blackwall, still a 140 and now it's time to replace that one. So I have several thousand miles with this setup and have had know problems.

Also I did the 750 rear end change out, really an 850, and have almost 10,000 miles on it and no problems there either.

I'll pull my wheel off and take a picture of the washer that I'm using now that I have a digital camera.

[xschop]

750 mod

Just did another 750 FD mod to another friend's XS11....Sure enough it does move the wheel/hub away from the shaft by 1-2mm....I took a mic to it to confirm....chop