Calling all Guru's....

[CarolynS]

Oh, no. We stopped trying to start it right then. I was concerned about gas in the oil too, so I'm waiting to get some free time to dedicate to it, plus I'm making the phone calls and trying to track down places to get parts and how long will it take to get them.
While everything's apart-just carbs or APART-I want to do all the other things that may need attention. It's alot of research-thankfully this site exists-and time, but I wanted a hobby and this is the one I chose.
It's going to be great to make the investment, have fun doing paint, polish, etc. and then actually be able to see all of the work and expense(minimal compared to owning a HD)pay off when I'm out riding around and having people say "What kind of bike is that?"

[81xsproject]

carbs

[CarolynS]

Carbs

Do you really think that's all it could be? It almost seems too simple-just clean 'em and you're good.

[mro]

Hardest part cleaning the carbs is getting em off and putting em back on the bike.
(unless you have pod filters...which have there own issues)
80G has the BS34 III carbs, float needle/gasket can be had from MikesXS.com.
Ken may still have a few "float pin removal tool"
Makes removing stuck float pins easier/safer.
On my 80G it takes four hours from start (removing carbs) cleaning/adjusting em to final vac synk and test ride.
First timers can expext to add a little to that.


mro
BTW, cheep insureance.
Replace rubber hoses and add in-line fuel filters.

[mro]

BTW 2

Would adjust cam chain and check valve clearances.
Nice to know there condition.


mro

[81xsproject]

I am almost CERTAINLY not saying that it is all carbs. In fact, I sell all my carbs with the disclaimer that carbs are the LAST part of troubleshooting a poor running bike. Once you know you have compression, know the cam chain is tight, know that valves have proper clearences and are in time, and that you have a strong consistant spark, THEN deal with the carbs.

[DiverRay]

Carolyn,
While the carbs are off, I would do the check on the Valves!. Pull the valve cover, and then pull the cover from the Left side of the engine. With the spark plugs removed, rotate the engine with a wrench to the "C" mark. The pointer you want to line up should be at about 8:00. With the mark lined up, you can pull the cam chain tensioner from the front of the engine. Just pull the two allen bolts off, and DO NOT touch the adjuster. Once off, you can then loosen the lock nut, and HOLDING BOTH ENDS of the adjuster, loosen the hold down bolt. The adjuster should spring out, and you can look to see if there is any sign of problems with the shaft. There may be little "half moon" marks on the shaft from the lock bolt, but if they are NOT deep, that's OK. Clean the adjuster up, reinstall the shaft and push it ALL THE WAY in. Tighten up the lock bolt, but just so it will hold the shaft in place. Reinstall the adjuster with a new gasket, or some Yamabond #4 on the old gasket. Once you have the adjuster back on, release the lock bolt. You SHOULD hear a "click" as the adjuster snaps out to contact the chain. snug down the lock bolt, and then tighten the lock nut. You can now rotate the crank until the "T" is at the pointer. If you are TDC at #1, you should see the cam sprockets line up with the crank. The actual pointers and what they need to point at are in the book. This would also be the time to start looking at the valve clearance. These machines will go for a long time without an adjustment, but the valves LOOSE THE CLEARANCE as they wear. If not adjusted, they will cause the valves to stay open, and then burn!
Good Luck, And enjoy the bike once it's running again.