Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Pulling the Engine

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Pulling the Engine

    Perhaps the cold here has frozen my brain solid or maybe I'm just getting a little cabin fever, but I decided that this is the winter I'm going to pull the engine off my 79 Special and completely go through it including the transmission. I have my Clymer and Chilton manuals but would also welcome any advice from on removing the engine from the frame…any tips or tricks that made things go smoother and decreased the hernia factor. Also is there anything I should know about removing the drive shaft that may only be found through experience?
    Ironride
    79 XS1100SF
    80 GS850G
    69 CB750 Four
    Never over-powered…just under controlled.

  • #2
    I replaced the engine in a 79 Special a couple of years ago. The boot around the drive shaft is very tricky and is easy to pinch, you need to be very careful of it. I just unhooked the bolts under the boot, I never actually removed the driveshaft. You need to take off the oil filter.

    Here is how I did mine:









    Gary Granger
    Remember, we are the caretakers of mechanical art.
    2013 Suzuki DR650SE, 2009 Kawasaki Concours 1400, 2003 Aprilia RSV Mille Tuono

    Comment


    • #3
      Yeah, the boot is a little pain - I tore mine to shreds and later replaced. But you do not have to remove the oil filter or the cam cover to pull the motor - but it will save you a few scratches on the frame, guaranteed.
      1979 XS11F Standard - Maya - 1196cc (out of order)
      1978 XS11E Standard - Nina - 1101cc
      http://www.livejournal.com/~xs11

      Comment


      • #4
        I didn't remove my oil filter, and I was able to get it out as well. I pulled mine out from the "RIGHT" side with the bike sitting up, that way I wasn't dragging so much engine passed the driveshaft and boot area, but it can come out either direction. I used a floor jack and hunk of wood to support under the engine during the removal of the last few bolts so that the weight of the engine wasn't on the bolts. Only two people were required to lift/heft and pull it out. I believe I had to tilt it forward a bit. You'll want to have removed the airbox and carbs of course. Don't forget the grounding strap at the rear of the engine. As for the driveshaft boot, there's 2 spring straps that secure it to the engine and the shaft, after removing it/them, you may be able to pull/strap the boot towards the rear onto the shaft to keep the engine from hitting and tearing it. To unbolt the 4 nuts, you're going to need a hunk of wood to stick in the rear tire spokes to keep the shaft from turning while you untorque them, same for reassembly.
        Good Luck.

        T.C.
        T. C. Gresham
        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
        History shows again and again,
        How nature points out the folly of men!

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks to all of you for your input and advice. It's help like this that can save you one heck of a bunch of swearing and unnecessary damage when doing something for the first time. I think I'll go ahead and pull the oil filter and cam covers just insure the least amount of snagging while pulling the engine. Thanks again and I'll keep you all posted on how things are going during the overhaul.
          Ironride
          79 XS1100SF
          80 GS850G
          69 CB750 Four
          Never over-powered…just under controlled.

          Comment

          Working...
          X