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  • #1

    Valve adjustment question

    With the heads off, is it necessary to use the funny little 'Yama-tool' (the little tool that slides down against the shim - don't know what the proper name is) to check the clearances or can you check them without it?

    Also, when reassembling, does anyone know a good way to torque the rear cam chain tunnel bolt? It looks like a real PITA to get a torque wrench in that location. Just bellow it there is a rubber boot covering what I assume is the oil pressure sending unit. Does this have to come out to torque the bolt?
    I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

    '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines
    Tags: None
  • #2
    valve shim tool

    That tool is for changing the valve shims, not for measuring clearances. To check clearances, measure with metric feeler guage 180 degrees from cam lobe (backside). As for that hard to reach bolt, I just use a wrench to tighten down. I don't think it is that critical to be exactly 14? ft-lbs. Not too loose, not too tight!
    2H7 (79) owned since '89
    3H3 owned since '06

    "If it ain't broke, modify it"

    ☮

    Comment

    • #3
      CHECK WITHOUT THE TOOL. YOU WILL SLIDE HTE FEELER GAGE IN BETWEEN THE CAM LOB AND THE SHIM, THE LOB NEED TO BE FACE UP FROM THE SHIM WHEN CHECKING.

      HOPEFULLY YOU ARE TRYING TO TORQUE IT WITH THE CARBS OFF, I USED A SMALL TORQUE WRENCH(FUNNY EH?) OR THERE IS AN OPTION OF WHATS CALLED A CROWS FOOT. BUT I DONT KNOW THE ACCURACY WHEN TORQUING.
      1979 XS1100 SF "Black Goblin"
      -Pod Filters
      -4-1 pipe
      -larger jets for carbs
      1982 XJ1100 "Black Sheep"

      Comment

      • #4
        Thanks for the replys, but as with so many other things, it leads to more questions

        Can you get the shims out without the tool?

        Also, I have it on good authority that the head bolts need to be retorqued after the engine has heated and cooled. This being the case, the first time I torque the cam chain tunnel bolts will be with the carbs off. The second time...

        On a happier note, I changed the valve cover gasket about two months ago (before I found the leak in the head gasket) and when I put it on I was determined not to have any leaks. I applied permatex #2 to both sides of the gasket - relatively heavy. I ran it about 300 miles with the new gasket in place and no leaks from the valve cover. I was expecting a real mess getting it off along with a destroyed gasket. I was amazed when the valve cover popped right off, and the gasket looked better than ever! God I love permatex.
        I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

        '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

        Comment

        • #5
          you do need the tool to get the shims out, or you could just take the cams off like i did. i had them on and off about 20 times. i can do it in my sleep now.
          1979 XS1100 SF "Black Goblin"
          -Pod Filters
          -4-1 pipe
          -larger jets for carbs
          1982 XJ1100 "Black Sheep"

          Comment

          • #6
            If your head is off then you can do it all on a bench. Just install the camshafts and tighten the caps to factory specs. Use a wrench to turn the cams and check your clearances.

            If the head is on the bike then it is easier to just remove the cams for shim changes. You probably have stock cam sprockets so it all goes back only one way. In this instance it is much easier to just take the cams off than to diddle around with the valve tool. Cams can be off and back on in five minutes once you get the cover off. If you have to make shim changes it will take longer for you to do the math to figure out which shims you will need.

            If you have slotted cam sprockets installed (XS & XJ's did not come from the factory with these) then you will have to degree your cams again and check piston to valve clearances and that means degree wheel, dial indicators, etc. In this instance I would give the tool a shot first.
            Mike Giroir
            79 XS-1100 Special

            Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.

            Comment

            • #7
              O.K. So the chain breaker I ordered ($39 from Mikes XS - awesome tool!) just came in. I broke the cam chain and broke the head loose. Here's the problem - the head doesn't want to come off. I can see 1/4" (that's 6.35mm for you guys who think in metric ) of light all the way around. Seems a little looser on the left side of the head, but for the life of me I can't see what it's hanging-up on. I thought I would check with the sages of the aged (motorcycles, that is) before I got too equine with it. Any thoughts?
              I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

              '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

              Comment

              • #8
                Well, let me answer my own question. Went back out and took a good look at things and noticed I was putting the cart in front of the horse. The cams were still in, and for some reason the heads won't come off in that configuration. Removed the cams and guess what - the head came right off.

                Turned it upside down and filled the top of the chamber with gas to make sure the valves are sealing. Looks good so far. Trying to keep from lapping them, but as the gasket set I ordered came with new valve seals, and the plugs looked a little oily I'll probably end up doing it anyway. As I gaze into my crystal ball I see a new valve spring compressor in my future

                The gasket didn't look too bad, except for the groove back by the cam chain tunnel right where I noticed the leak. I also removed the rubber seal around the tunnel. With a new gasket, this seal does NOT go back in - correct?
                I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                Comment

                • #9
                  cam cavity seal

                  Leave the cam cavity rubber seal out. They are not used anymore. You can make a valve spring compressor out a piece of 3/4 in. pipe and a 6" c-clamp very easily. Definately replace the valve seals if you have them. Now's the time with the head off.
                  2H7 (79) owned since '89
                  3H3 owned since '06

                  "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                  ☮

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    Thanks Phil. So do you have to do some mods on the 3/4" pipe? Looking at it I can see how the spring can be compressed with one end of the C-clamp on the bottom of the valve and the pipe on the valve spring retainer. It looks like some of the pipe has to be removed in order to get the valve spring retainer lock off. Is this correct, or is there some other trick I'm not aware of?

                    Also, as I look at the lifters the shims are really stuck down in there. What is the proper way to remove the shims? I hate boogering things up when I'm trying to fix 'em

                    The tech tips mention putting the lifters in dry ice to reinstall. As the only place around here that I know to get dry ice is a plumbing supply house (where they want to sell you 50 pounds of the stuff) I used the freezer instead. 15 minutes in the freezer and the lifters drop right in. What a great bunch of fanatics you guys are
                    I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                    '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      tool

                      Here's a pic. of what the tool should look like. Just cut out the "X" area for access to the keepers.



                      Use a magnet to remove the keepers or a needle nose pliars. If you rotate the shim bucket, you'll see a slot where you can pop out the shim with a small screwdriver.
                      2H7 (79) owned since '89
                      3H3 owned since '06

                      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                      ☮

                      Comment

                      • #12
                        Phil - You were right on the money with the PVC/6" Clamp tool. Made one and it worked great. Only thing is, the valve seals are still down in there. I guess they're attached to the valve guides - which leads me to my next question. How do you get the valve guides and oil seals out?

                        As I'm already in there, I 've pretty much decided to completely dissassemble the head so I can give it a good soak in diesel. It might take the clear coat off the outside, but that suits me fine.
                        I think I have a loose screw behind the handlebars.

                        '79 XS11 Standard, Jardine 4/1, Dyna DC1-1 Coils, 145 mains, 45 pilots, plastic floats - 25.7mm, XV920 fuel valves, inline fuel filters, speed bleeders, Mikes XS pods, spade-type fuse block, fork brace, progressive fork springs/shocks, manual petcocks, 750 FD, Venture cam chain tensioner, SS brake lines

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          seals

                          Just pull the seals up with a pair of pliars and chuck them. They'll be damaged. I've never had to take a guide out before. Installing seals, just press them on with your finger. Put some oil first. HTH.
                          2H7 (79) owned since '89
                          3H3 owned since '06

                          "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                          ☮

                          Comment

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