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Here's a short recap of my other thread with further info below...
I've got an XS that will not fire. Last season cylinder 3 would cease firing from time to time, but only intermittently. This year on starting it up for the spring I found neither #2 and #3 would start at all, so i took the seat and tank off to go over the connectors and look for any obvious problems. I also charged the battery overnight. Not having found any issues I put it back together in the hopes the fresh battery would magically help somehow. Sadly, none of the cylinders fire now.
The engine is definitely getting fuel, cranking it too much without starting causes flooding all over the place.
The engine is not getting fire at all. when I take a plug out and ground it on the side of the engine and crank it's stone cold with no spark.
Last night I took the tank, seat etc off and went over all the connectors I could find and gave them a bit of WD40 and made sure they were actually connected properly. I also rechecked all the fuses which not only appear fine, but read continuous when using a multimeter.
Following one of the guides in the repair pages of this site I also used the multimeter to check the resistance on several wires.
I pulled the smaller plug off the ignition unit (the one with four wires) an checked the resistance between the yellow/green and yellow/red, then between the white/green and the white/red. Both gave somewhere around 700 to 750 ohms. I believe this is ok. I did not remove the side cover and rotate the ignition advance unit back and forth while doing this test for lack of time.
The guide I read said to check the "resistance btween the plug wire caps for each coil" which i took to mean from plug cap 1 to plug cap 4 and from plug cap 2 to plug cap 3. I removed 1 and 4 from the spark plugs and checked the resistance and got something in the area of 27K ohms or so. Same for 2 and 3.
I then checked the red/white wire that runs from the ignition unit to the coil that lives under the gas tank, and also the orange wire, and the grey wire that from along the same route. These would give variable readings of .4 ohms, sometimes .2 ohms, once in awhile 0 ohms. Wiggling the probes around would causes spikes as the tips rubbed the metal but I could not reliably find a spot that game a consistent reading.
I presume this last bit is the issue? .2 ohms along the wire that carries electric from the ignition unit to the coils under the tanks sounds wrong.
If any of the above makes no sense, let me know... I'm an artist not a mechanic and although I've been riding for 20+ years I'm never been great with anything mechanical.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
datter
I've got an XS that will not fire. Last season cylinder 3 would cease firing from time to time, but only intermittently. This year on starting it up for the spring I found neither #2 and #3 would start at all, so i took the seat and tank off to go over the connectors and look for any obvious problems. I also charged the battery overnight. Not having found any issues I put it back together in the hopes the fresh battery would magically help somehow. Sadly, none of the cylinders fire now.
The engine is definitely getting fuel, cranking it too much without starting causes flooding all over the place.
The engine is not getting fire at all. when I take a plug out and ground it on the side of the engine and crank it's stone cold with no spark.
Last night I took the tank, seat etc off and went over all the connectors I could find and gave them a bit of WD40 and made sure they were actually connected properly. I also rechecked all the fuses which not only appear fine, but read continuous when using a multimeter.
Following one of the guides in the repair pages of this site I also used the multimeter to check the resistance on several wires.
I pulled the smaller plug off the ignition unit (the one with four wires) an checked the resistance between the yellow/green and yellow/red, then between the white/green and the white/red. Both gave somewhere around 700 to 750 ohms. I believe this is ok. I did not remove the side cover and rotate the ignition advance unit back and forth while doing this test for lack of time.
The guide I read said to check the "resistance btween the plug wire caps for each coil" which i took to mean from plug cap 1 to plug cap 4 and from plug cap 2 to plug cap 3. I removed 1 and 4 from the spark plugs and checked the resistance and got something in the area of 27K ohms or so. Same for 2 and 3.
I then checked the red/white wire that runs from the ignition unit to the coil that lives under the gas tank, and also the orange wire, and the grey wire that from along the same route. These would give variable readings of .4 ohms, sometimes .2 ohms, once in awhile 0 ohms. Wiggling the probes around would causes spikes as the tips rubbed the metal but I could not reliably find a spot that game a consistent reading.
I presume this last bit is the issue? .2 ohms along the wire that carries electric from the ignition unit to the coils under the tanks sounds wrong.
If any of the above makes no sense, let me know... I'm an artist not a mechanic and although I've been riding for 20+ years I'm never been great with anything mechanical.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
datter
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