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  • turn signals no go

    you people are great and have not steered me wrong yet...so 2moros headache will be tryin to get the turn sigs to work. so far i have had switch apart and have found broken wires at solder point, resoldered and still ng. i do find about 11volts at the switch and at relay flasher on one wire [i beleive its a brown 16 ga]. my prob is i dont know where i'm supposed to find voltage.!? i've been told to look for bad ground...so far in haven't found one. so..if anyone has any ideas where i mite look for broken wires, or bad grounds or whatever, i sure would like to hear about it.
    thanx,
    redbone
    1980 mns 1100
    testing 1-2-3

    1980 1100 mns

  • #2
    The bad ground will probably be around the lights themselves. You should find a black wire on the rear light mount. It will be soldered onto a "washer" that is between the lock washer and the rubber grommet that the turn signal is mounted on. This wire NEEDS to be connected to a GOOD frame ground. A lot of times, they break off at the washer, so no ground on the light.
    A quick check is to make a "jumper" wire about 3' (1 meter for those in the metric world) long. Put an alligator clip on one side, and clip it to the negative battery post. With the turn signals "on", touch the other end to the mount post of the signal. If the light comes on, the ground is bad.
    Ray Matteis
    KE6NHG
    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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    • #3
      If you have power in the T/S switch at the brown wire with the white stripe, then you should get power at the green or brown wire that is soldered into the T/S switch, depending on which way you move the T/S lever. These wires will be soldered in on either side of the B/W wire. If there is no power to either the Grn or Brn wire the the problem is with the sliding contacts where you repaired the solder joints.

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      • #4
        On my 79SF, the middle wire at the t/s switch itself had broken away cleanly and appeared to be soldered on. When I twisted the entire switch assembly it would get intemittent contact.

        As I recall it wasn't to difficult to trace the circuit from the energized side.

        Darrell
        Darrell
        78E
        80G project
        06FJR

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        • #5
          The Goblin didn't come with T/S lights on it, so trying to be a purist at first I bught some originals off e-bay.........hooked them and got half of the T/S working, turned out the actual light assemblies were bad. So I turned after market....still had some problems... So here is the list of where i found problems with the wiring:

          1. In the T/S switch: completly coroded. swapped one off a RD200...LOL

          2. The wires running back along the frame under the seat near the fender were warn through and shorting out.

          3. Bad grounds as mentioned above in other posts.

          try and follow the wires from the switch back and look for shorts, melted wires, or bad grounds.
          1979 XS1100 SF "Black Goblin"
          -Pod Filters
          -4-1 pipe
          -larger jets for carbs
          1982 XJ1100 "Black Sheep"

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          • #6
            turn signals....again

            i dont have the origianl flasher relay.....i bought one from an auto part store. i have no turn sigs, 3 prong plug, did anyone else get one to work?? i dont what else to do. voltage seems to be in order. i've had just about enough misery dealin with this!!
            redbone
            1980 mns 1100
            testing 1-2-3

            1980 1100 mns

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            • #7
              Redbone,

              Now go and get a 2 prong flasher. The 3rd leg is not used properly using an auto one! You may have to swap the 2 prong to find out which way will work, 2 ways to plug it in!
              T.C.
              T. C. Gresham
              81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
              79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
              History shows again and again,
              How nature points out the folly of men!

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