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**xssiveone** · 02-11-2003, 11:12 PM

Personally, I think they are handing you a line of crap and don't really want to do the work. With older bikes, most shops don't want to bother working on them because most owner's have heart failure when they are presented with a large repair bill that quite often is way more then the bike is worth.

It's impossible for them to make a call like this without disassembling the engine. Valves can be reground, normally they never need to be replaced unless they are bent, or very badly burnt. And never all at once. As for the compression, what has probably happened is that one or more sets of rings are stuck and not sealing properly. When an engine is stopped for a long period, one or more valves will remain open exposing the cylinder to moisture.

As to whether or not the bike is worth the money, that question can only be answered by you and your wallet. You have to keep in mind that once you get it running, you will undoubtedly have additional expenses to consider. Tires, brakes, fork seals, battery, dirty carbs and probably a rusty gas tank to clean and coat. If you are mechanically inclined, get a shop manual and a box of tools and do the work yourself.

As for the compression readings, it should run with 125psi. It won't run well tho, due to the unequal readings. If it was me, I would bring it back from the shop as it is, and put some diesel fuel, transmision fluid, or something similar in each cylinder. Let it soak the rings and maybe they will loosen up and start to seal again. Let it soak for a couple of days. While this is soaking, start at one end of the bike and check it over to determine what else it needs to make it roadworthy. Get an idea of what it's going to cost you for this... I'm betting around $400 at least to get it roadworthy.

After you soak the rings, do another compresson test to see if things have improved.

**Ken Talbot** · 02-11-2003, 11:22 PM

125 psi dry, if the check was done correctly in the first place with the throttle held wide open, is on the low end of what is recommended. At the same time, the manual says the max is only 156 psi, with average at 142. What is more telling is the variance between cylinders. Here, the manual says pressure should not vary by more than 14 psi.

If all 4 cylinders are consistently low, I would say don't have it rebuilt at this time. You could sink 2600 into it, but there is no way of knowing how much more may be required. Second gear could be bad, or you might have warped or worn rotors. It is very likely that both brake systems will need cleaning or rebuilding, the forks might leak, the petcocks might be shot, the battery might be on its last legs, and the tires could be so old they are ready to go.

Now for the bright news. These bikes have enough power when they are in full, proper operating shape that you can still have a lot fun with a significant amount of that power missing. Save your money, get the bike running, and see what it really needs or doesn't need. If you are willing to try some of the simpler tasks yourself, with help from fellow XSives on this forum, you can stretch your 2600 bucks a long way. Get the kinks worked out of it and have some fun. Then, once you know the rest is solid, you will be in a better position to know if it is worth spending big bucks on a professional rebuild. Or, with just a bit of encouragement, you may be ready to do that rebuild yourself.

**chopper** · 02-12-2003, 03:24 AM

hi dave,personally i would buy another engine or a parts bike,transplant the motor,enjoy your bike.if you love it as im sure you will,then rebuild your own motor with a few goodies,you could build a new big bore motor easilly for the money you were quoted...

**Jerry** · 02-12-2003, 08:24 AM

Also depends on timing. There was an XJ engine on eBay recently, starting price was $250.00. Used engine from most salvage yards will be in the $500.00 range. Course, you have to add shipping in most cases.....

I wouldn't put $2,600.00 into the engine, much as I like my XJ, unless the rest of the bike was spotless/mint condition. With other repairs and upgrades you will have well over $3,000.00 in it at a minimum. Check prices on other XS bikes on the market, one in Minneapolis recently posted for $600.00, not an XJ though. Good running XSs can be had for $1,200.00 - $1,500.00 on a fairly regular basis if you don't have time to shop for a bargain.

Most of us will agree that we put more into the bikes than they are probably worth on the open market, unless you get a real deal to begin with, so plan accordingly.

It is possible to do the work yourself, but you will have much more time and effort involved. Again, depends on your time schedule and temperament. For the price you were quoted, you could do the work, farm out what you have to, like valve grinding, and still put in some goodies, such as a big bore kit........

I would do the soaking recommended in an earlier post, change oil frequently, try adding an additive like SeaFoam to the gas and oil per instructions on the can, and see what happens. My guess is that you could get the bike running, and its performance would get better within a few thousand miles. Then decide if you want to rebuild, swap, or otherwise do engine work.

**nashville_bill** · 02-12-2003, 09:42 AM

deo,

My XS11 has compression ranging from 125 to 135 and runs great. Yesterday, I rode it and opened up the throttle all the way and it almost scared me to death. It's been awhile since I rode the bike as fast as it will go and, even with a not perfect engine, has a tremendous amount of power.

I think I would get your bike back from the dealer and buy some tools and read the articles at XS11.com. There is enough info here to help you through any repair and if you can't find it, just ask and you will get all the help you need. I would help you do the work but you live a little too far away from me.

Good Luck!

**deo** · 02-12-2003, 10:36 AM

The mechanic just got fired, Layed off, not working anymore, etc. Now that doesn't mean it was my fault I was just the final straw in a very tense situation.
I read all of your replies to the shop owner and he said "hey those guys know what they are talking about. When my new mechanic comes in next week I'll put him on it with a good soaking and see if we can get it running and bring the compression up on all cylinders."

I owe all of you a case of beer, well I only drink non-alcoholic stuff myself so maybe a case of cokes at the next gathering.

Mick, I'll see you in May and pay up.
dave

**deo** · 02-12-2003, 10:49 AM

does a 79 xs1100 transmission and engine fit the xj frame and configuration?

deo

**Jerry** · 02-12-2003, 03:54 PM

Well, almost. The XJ uses an all-electronic ignition system, the '79 uses a mechanical advance system. You would need to switch the 'black box' if you put the XS engine in the XJ.

I've been told the motor mounting brackets are just a bit different, so advise that you keep both sets of hardware to make sure you have what you need.

XJ uses a different charging system, brush design instead of brushless in the XS, don't know if the regulators and associated wiring are the same, you would need to take a look and see. Chances are some minor wiring changes would need to be made.

XJ uses a cable-actuated choke on handlebar, XS uses a lever on the carb assembly. Could convert the XS carbs or just remove the cable choke, is a minor point.

I think everything else is pretty much a bolt-and-go situation. Biggest item is switching the ignition black box.

**deo** · 02-12-2003, 04:24 PM

Jerry,

Thanks for the pointers. I think I am going to try to 'resurrect' the old one. A bike with 17,000 miles shouldn't be too far gone in the the engine area. I'm thinking that one cylinder was grungy and therefore they over reacted.

dave

**procamper** · 02-12-2003, 06:31 PM

This might be a situation where you could make lemonade, as they say...

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...&threadid=1329

$365 is a whole lot cheaper than 2600

**deo** · 02-12-2003, 07:11 PM

The price included 30 hours of labor on the project. That is where the big bucks are. I think it runs 55.00 an hour for this shop.
So the 365.00 was a nice idea if the major cost was parts.

dave

**JWC** · 02-12-2003, 07:28 PM

Hello DEO,

If I were you, I'd listen to this group and follow their advice. Find another shop if you can't do the work yourself.

The guys (like the guys on the Goldwing forum) will lead you down the right path.

You should be able to get your eng. up and running for less then a grand.

One step at a time.

**TopCatGr58** · 02-13-2003, 08:24 PM

Hey there Deo,

Where is this "Lake of the Woods" in Virginia? I'm in Virginia, in the south east corner, Portsmouth. There are a couple of XSives in the Richmond area. A few around DC area.

I've done the topend on my 81SH a couple of years ago. I had 50+k miles, plus I had let my engine/bike sit outside for 9 years, not properly stored or prepped the engine, got water vapor in a cylinder, rusted badly, I didn't even try to hone it. I pulled the heads off, the jugs off, did the little big bore kit for ~$400 plus $160 for boring, did the valve work myself, disassembly and reassembly myself, I put ~$2300 into the complete resurrection of my bike, not just the engine, new forks, brake work, tires, seat, Tranny fix, etc.. My Sea level comps are ~180, but that's due to the increased ratio from the big bore kit. I'm no super wrench, just a shadetree survivalist, and the bikes been to 2 rallies, NY and NC, and doing great. Learning how to wrench on it yourself is the best way to go, both for cost savings, self satisfaction, and the ability to repair it even on the road if it breaks down. Good luck, keep us posted.

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