Blew out the cobwebs

[madmax-im]

Alright...took Max out today and charged up the battery for a couple of hours and was able to get him to fire up.The carbs sucked but eventually I got gas runnung thru it and was able to get him fired up...alright...warmed him up a good 15 mins as I put on my riding gear... ATGATT...then I rolled out of the driveway where the first real launch from a stop was rather cold blooded and Ofc I forgot to rev it high enuf as to not lug the engine so I lugged it a little until I re-adjusted my throttle hand.Once on the road the feeling was that Max did not want to run.Even though he was warmed up at idle for 15 mins ...he nonetheless was still cold blooded trying to get up to operating speed...a few minutes of this and he warmed up good and proper as if to say damn that was a long cold winter.. from this point on he was running as well as one could expect a 26 yr old bike to run...even the 1st gear slipping was manageable at lower RPMs so I headed for my favorite scenic route along the Delaware River and rode 66 miles in just an hour and was back home... The river looks great and the weather was bright and sunny and 45*...great to hear MadMax roar again...lol...It seems a shame to have to tear him down for the upcoming xnsmission and carb fix/rejetting but I know he'll run like he's brand new once we're done with it.

[mro]

Some years back was in Allen Town PA and on out to Long Island NY.
First time I'd been there. Pretty area. Did take a look at the Delaware as well as a few other places, (like to fish).

15 minuets to warm up be too long...
5/6 minuets to reg operating temp more like it.
Full choke to start, 15 to 30 seconds to half choke.
Two/three minuets from starting, choke off.


mro

[madmax-im]

Need some pointers

I suspect the carbs are the reason the bike is cold blooded...I was aware of what a normal warmup was like...Thanks for the refresher...Today I began the tear down...Tank,exhaust/muffler,mirrors,seat bracket on back,popped off the cone filters...but dont know how to pull the carbs off...also dont know how to remove the front turn indicators and stalks as everything goes into the headlamp assy....also do not know how to drain the middle drive and final drives and where those filler plugs and drain plugs are?

[madmax-im]

Originally posted by mro
Some years back was in Allen Town PA and on out to Long Island NY.
First time I'd been there. Pretty area. Did take a look at the Delaware as well as a few other places, (like to fish).

15 minuets to warm up be too long...
5/6 minuets to reg operating temp more like it.
Full choke to start, 15 to 30 seconds to half choke.
Two/three minuets from starting, choke off.


mro

Cool ...its a little sedate compared to the West but still there are some nice roads and scenery...the best parts of the Delaware are from Trenton going north...that is where the river changes from tidal to non- tidal...i have followed the Delaware all the way to its origins in NY state...beautiful hills of Southern NY along the PA border...was just thru there last Fall and the foliage was awesome as was the weather that day...

[AlanB]

Hi Max,

Sounds like you need to get a manual (Clymer or Factory..... don't bother with Haynes!) and spend some time reading! Don't go in until you are familiar with what you will find.

AlanB

[madmax-im]

Stupid question time

Hi Alan...
I have a Clymer
Manual for my '81XS1100SH..would it suffice for the '82 XJ1100 as well?

[mro]

Fluid changes same all years.
Head light same as a special.
Not sure how much trouble getting the air box out of the way to get to the carbs on the 82', but carbs come off easy if box is removed. On the XSes I just loosen the air box and it moves back just enough to get the carbs off.
To synk the carbs...check out tech tips for YICS tool. Will be needed.


mro

[AlanB]

Hi Max,

What he said!.......... drains are underneath; check that the "fill" plugs come out before you drain 'em.... and check the oil grade you need. Turn signals are easy once you pull the headlight unit.... (glass and rim come out together..... should be one or two screws under the front edge of the shell)

Have a look at the pics in the book; It should all get pretty clear!

AlanB

[madmax-im]

Originally posted by mro
Fluid changes same all years.
Head light same as a special.
Not sure how much trouble getting the air box out of the way to get to the carbs on the 82', but carbs come off easy if box is removed. On the XSes I just loosen the air box and it moves back just enough to get the carbs off.
To synk the carbs...check out tech tips for YICS tool. Will be needed.


mro

mro...dont have the airbox...just 4 pod filters...pulled them but still am not sure how to separate the carbs...other stuff I will look in the clymer..Thanks for the help everyone

[DiverRay]

pulled them but still am not sure how to separate the carbs

Carbs will come off as a single unit. loosen the clamps on the rubber holders between the carbs and the head on all four, remove the throttle cable, and the carbs should wiggle off. To reinstall I try and warm up the rubber a little if its cold, less than 60 F. It also helps to put a little silicon spray lube on the outside of the carbs BEFORE trying to wiggle them back in.
As MRO said, you WILL need the YICS Tool in order to sync the carbs.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey MadMax,

There are actually 2 cables for the XJ carbs since it has the remote choke/enrichener lever on the handlebars! I find it easier to remove the carbs....THEN I can more easily access the throttle cable, rotating the butterfly shaft to get slack to remove the cable. Don't know how the choke cable is attached!

As for the YICS tool, Ken Talbot should be getting some of the special rubber hose needed to make one with soon, and should be happy to send you some for a nominal fee!

I didn't remove the turn signals from the headlight for the flipping technique, the handlebars protect them and they shouldn't make contact with the ground as you lay it over and upside down!
T.C.

[madmax-im]

Thanks TC abt the carbs though on the engine side they are attatched with these rubber boots/sleeves so do i remove the carbs witht he boots or without them?I know dumb question but I've never been there before...I am relieved I dont have to mess with thur turn signals....got enuf other stuff to do...and this is a very busy week on top of it all...tb be continued...

[AlanB]

Hi Max,

Leave the boots on the engine; undo the four clamps which pull the rubber tight onto the carb bodies, and they pull out. there is a "lip" in the rubber, so the clamps need to be loose enough to push back.

Like I said; read the manual; there are a load of pics of the process in there!

AlanB

[madmax-im]

Thanks Alan ...I just found Floyd and I'll be reading up on it..

[madmax-im]

Got it

Alright the evening wasn't a bust after all...got the carbs out but it was a little touchy at the end when loosening the throttle cable to disconnect the cable from the carbs but an extra pair of hands helped Thanks to my Brother...so Success to the Railroad! But OMG does MadMax look just terrible right abt now... but with evry little step forward...my confidence grows ...hey you guys might just make a wrencher out of me yet...LOL...tomrw is drain fluids day.My Clymer manual...even though its for 1978-1981 seems pretty much the same for the most part...so it is a help...Thanks Floyd