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There's a post on here somwhere that claims they are made of ABS plastic the same plastic that's used to make drain pipe. You can buy the glue at most hardware stores.
Paul
1983 XJ1100 Maxim
1979 XS1100 Standard
1980 XS1100 Special
I'm not a motorcycle mechanic but I play one on the internet.
JB Weld works well also. I think they are ABS and I know that if you are going to repaint the bare plastic be careful with any sort of 'hot' paints, like Laquer.
Mike Giroir
79 XS-1100 Special
Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.
I''ve used ABS cement on the side covers, side bags and fairing. Works great. You can build it up if need be. I used fiberglass mat for a backing. Put cement on part and mat. Put mat on part. Put cement over mat.
79 F full cruiser, stainless brake lines, spade fuses, Accel coils, modded air box w/larger velocity stacks, 750 FD.
79 SF parts bike.
My side panels were cracked and fixed great with GRP, some folk have told me that GRP doesn't stick to these panels but mine is stuck real hard, I roughed the inside up with 80 grit emery tape as a prep.
Tom
1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original
I saw this on another site yesterday and thought it was interesting. It may help with your question.
"So many times I see posts from people purchasing new parts because of a stress crack. Owning an '85 I have seen my share. Don't replace it, Fix it!
First get one of those small fiberglass repair kits. Should run you all of $5. Also get some ABS cement. Remove the part to be repaired. From the side that is not exposed, rough up the area with some 220 grit sandpaper. Glue the area with the ABS cement and allow to set. Now mix the fiberglass resin and hardner according to the instructions. Cut some material in small strips (1"-2" strips). Brush on the mixture and start laying down a few layers of fiberglass, and work it into the ABS. I usually use 2-3 layers. If the area has a drilled hole, just glass right over it and then re-drill after it cures.
I have repaired the front fender tabs, lower cowl, and put a patch on the main fairing over each mounting hole just for good luck. I have NEVER had to repair an area a 2nd time. "
Again, I didn't write this, but it sounds like it may apply to your question. Tom
I am pretty sure that they are ABS as well; I think some are marked?
Most of the type-specific plastics glues actually dissolve the plastic a bit to make the repair, so try the glue out in a small section of the back of the panel. If it doesn't "soften up" the surface, you have the wrong glue, and you need to keep looking........
It willl save you getting the wrong glue in the crack.
PL 6000 adhesive in a tube. This stuff sticks to ANYTHING and once it sets the only way to remove it is with a grinder. Don't get it on your hands, it stains instantly. Wearing latex gloves smear some on to the back side of the crack and your do to go once it sets.
Rob
Rob,
Have seen PL 600 but not the 6000. Where do you get the stuff?
The Old Tamer
_________________________
1979 XS1100SF (The Fire Dragon)
1982 650 Maxim (The Little Dragon)
another '82 650 Maxim (Parts Dragon)
1981 XS1100SH (The Black Dragon)
If there are more than three bolts holding it on there, it is most likely a very important part!
Thanks, will try and locate some. My side covers are 100% but we are having problems with the ones on my sons Zook. They are made of something else and we have found nothing that will stick to them. They appear to be harder and much more brittle. ABS (or PVC glue) and the fiberglass repair trick seemed to work fine but after a year or so it just fell off and except for the sanded area it looked like nothing had ever been done there.
On the other hand maybe I should not help him so much, his Zook is the same age as the Dragon and he has got it looking almost better, this could be embarrassing!!
The Old Tamer
_________________________
1979 XS1100SF (The Fire Dragon)
1982 650 Maxim (The Little Dragon)
another '82 650 Maxim (Parts Dragon)
1981 XS1100SH (The Black Dragon)
If there are more than three bolts holding it on there, it is most likely a very important part!
Melting some stainless steel screen mesh into the back side of the crack works wonders. Lay a piece of the screen over the entire length of the crack. About 1/2- 3/4 inch overlap on the sides is good. Use a soldering iron to melt the plastic under the screen, and as it melts, push the screen down into the melted plastic. The plastic will ooze through the screen and then solidify when it cools. I have done this to numerous cracks in the faring on Wildkat's FJ11.
Drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it spreading and pop-rivet a 22ga aluminum patch on the inside. Bondo the crack and re-paint. The rivet heads hardly show except from real close.
Fred Hill, S'toon
XS11SG with Spirit of America sidecar
"The Flying Pumpkin"
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