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Rev counter wobble

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  • #1

    Rev counter wobble

    Hey guys!

    Yep, im still alive
    Anyway, I got my 2nd ebay without instrument cluster, so I got one from ebay.
    Rev counter began to wobble from bout 5k rpm to 6k rpm... its OK below or above those revs.
    I checked the voltage on the fuses... 14V across the rev range.
    I assume its a poor connection somewhere, coz sometimes the needle is all over the place. I got another instrument cluster off ebay (now I got real milage ) and its the same if not a bit worse with this new speedo.
    I have two more rev counters, but I think it would be the same with them.... so... any ideas where to start checking?

    Strom.
    If it doesn't have an engine, it's not a sport, it's only a game.
    (stole that one from I-dont-know-who)
    Tags: None
  • #2
    any ideas where to start checking?

    Don't forget the connector behind the fuse box.


    mro

    Comment

    • #3
      Re: any ideas where to start checking?

      I agree with MRO. The tach gets its signal from the alternator... It could be indicative of the connection arcing in there. Catch it early and prevent self-destruction! :-)

      Originally posted by mro
      Don't forget the connector behind the fuse box.


      mro
      Skids (Sid Hansen)

      Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

      Comment

      • #4
        I admit... when I got this bike the engine was in one piece and I didnt bother to check anything in there.
        It was just working
        Will check in the morning.... weather sucks anyway
        If it doesn't have an engine, it's not a sport, it's only a game.
        (stole that one from I-dont-know-who)

        Comment

        • #5
          Tach jumping around

          I noticed a similar behavior yesterday. My tach started jumping from 3.5k down to 2.5k and then back up. Of course tapping on it didn't help. And after reving past it and back down settled it down some but it persisted after that for a while.
          Any ideas?
          Thanks
          1980G Standard, Restored
          Kerker 4 - 1
          850 Rear End Mod
          2-21 Flashing LED Arrays on either side of license plate for Brake Light Assist, 1100 Lumen Cree Aux Lights,
          Progressive springs, Showa rear shocks
          Automatic CCT
          1980GH Special, Restored
          Stock Exhaust, New Handlebars, 1" Spacer in Fork Springs, Automatic CCT, Showa Rear Shocks
          '82 XJ1100 (Sold)
          Automatic CCT, RC Engineering 4 X 1 Exhaust, K&N Pods, #50 Pilot Jets, YICS Eliminator. Sorely missed.

          Comment

          • #6
            Any ideas?

            If you have not yet spent the time to clean/check ALL the electrical connections...you may spend time tring to solve problems that could have been avoided.

            Once you have done a good job on the connectors then when a problem arises where you will check for the problem will be more limited. (can still be a electrical problem but less likely)

            TCI, turn signals/lights, tach, plug caps, etc. etc. etc....
            all can be affected by corroded connections


            mro

            Comment

            • #7
              tach

              The tach on my Standard has ill effects too. As long as the charging system is functioning properly, I don't worry too much about it. Tried cleaning all connections with no positive results.
              2H7 (79) owned since '89
              3H3 owned since '06

              "If it ain't broke, modify it"

              ☮

              Comment

              • #8
                Tried cleaning all connections with no positive results.

                Possibilities...
                diode in wire from stator while still working may no longer be in spec and need to be replaced.
                Inside tach, could try some "dry lube" on needle shaft.
                (can get from a hardware or auto parts store)
                Check wires in the tack are not corrodded.

                Get a new tack


                mro

                Comment

                • #9
                  Not the tach, I got 5 of them atm, tried 3 of them...
                  If it doesn't have an engine, it's not a sport, it's only a game.
                  (stole that one from I-dont-know-who)

                  Comment

                  • #10
                    I agree with Strom. Not the tach. I've got an NOS tach, now two yrs old, and it had the wobble from day one.

                    Comment

                    • #11
                      Just a thought but dose anyone using on of Geezer's improved regulators have the tack wobble problem?
                      wingnut
                      81 SH (Daily Ride)
                      81 650XJ (Brother in laws bike, Delivered)
                      81 650XJ Jane Doe (Son's Ride)
                      82 750XJ Project bike (Son in law's future ride)
                      81 XS 400

                      No man has a natural right to commit aggression on the equal rights of another; and this is all from which the laws ought to restrain him.”

                      A government big enough to give you everything you want, is strong enough to take everything you have.

                      Thomas Jefferson

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                      • #12
                        The wobble did not appear from day one.... maybe a few days after. Im suspecting the connection in the headlight. Some of those are pretty bad.
                        Also the speedo/tacho dont match up in values anymore (4k rpm in 5th is bout 100kmh / 60 mph).

                        Raining today so.... maybe ill even check that connection, but doubt it... prolly stay in bed the whole day
                        If it doesn't have an engine, it's not a sport, it's only a game.
                        (stole that one from I-dont-know-who)

                        Comment

                        • #13
                          Tack wobbles

                          just an idea, (multi-meter with an LED display would be best)
                          attach small diameter wire to the white wire from stator to tach and run it up by handle bars and connect to a multi-meter set to
                          ac voltage.

                          Run engine to offending rpm range and see if voltage flutuates. Attach after diode and set to DC volts and check agin.

                          I've not played with the internals of the tacks so not sure how much trouble to do simular test where wires come out of tach.

                          If you had a steady voltage reading going in and a flutuating one going out would point to a tack problem or a down stream connetor problem ???


                          mro

                          Comment

                          • #14
                            XSellent idea!

                            Or... use the same multimeter and check for connectivity at engine off.
                            Wiggle cables/connectors and listen for pauses in beeeeeeeeeeep :P
                            If not, your way..... its supposed to snow on sunday and I might fix rear break while im at it (disintegrated (pads, small bolt) while changing rear tire for avon roadrunner).

                            LP
                            If it doesn't have an engine, it's not a sport, it's only a game.
                            (stole that one from I-dont-know-who)

                            Comment

                            • #15
                              Stator looks new from the factory... didnt poke around too much.
                              I cleaned the connections behind the fuse box..
                              Didnt bother in the headlight... but thats the likely culprit. Next time maybe... snowing today...
                              If it doesn't have an engine, it's not a sport, it's only a game.
                              (stole that one from I-dont-know-who)

                              Comment

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